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男士內(nèi)衣告別石器時代

男士內(nèi)衣告別石器時代

Colleen Leahey 2012-02-20
誰說男人就不在乎時尚?男性時尚意識的覺醒為湯姆?帕特森這樣的企業(yè)家?guī)砹诵聶C會,他創(chuàng)辦的Tommy John公司希望從內(nèi)衣開始變革整個男裝市場。

????Tommy John不是唯一一家有這種雄心壯志的企業(yè)。內(nèi)衣巨頭Jockey也推出了全新“Stay Cool”產(chǎn)品線,以丹佛野馬隊四分衛(wèi)蒂姆?提博為代言人,旨在改變內(nèi)衣行業(yè)的游戲規(guī)則。

????“男人們已開始重視內(nèi)衣功能性上的優(yōu)點,”Jockey首席營銷官德斯汀?柯恩說。該公司的“Stay Cool”系列內(nèi)衣與美國航空航天局(NASA)宇航員身穿的航天服一樣,強調(diào)透氣性能。他說:“我覺得男士們對貼身衣物的重視程度正在逐步追趕女性。女士們很關(guān)心服飾,總是希望貼身衣物讓她們最漂亮?,F(xiàn)在,男人也開始重視這個問題了?!?/p>

????柯恩稱,提博是該系列產(chǎn)品的理想代言人,因為他同時迎合了男性和女性的偏好?!疤岵┦莻€真誠可信的運動員,這使他深得男士欣賞,而女士們則喜歡他的個性和英俊外表?!笨紤]到Jockey已經(jīng)有了龐大的顧客基礎(chǔ),如果棄舊換新模式早日衰落,它對該公司來說肯定不是壞事。

????消費市場研究公司NPD Group首席行業(yè)分析師馬歇爾?科恩指出,最近幾年來,男士時尚行業(yè)總體上發(fā)生了了顯著變化。“過去兩年來,男人們越來越注重時尚,比上世紀70年代以來的幾十年來都要重視?!?/p>

????科恩稱,如今男士服飾往往為某種專門用途而設(shè)計?!吧碳視嬖V男性消費者,當(dāng)你從事某種活動的時候,就需要這種風(fēng)格、這種產(chǎn)品。”他還援引Under Armour品牌為例,稱后者成功地避免了陷入傳統(tǒng)內(nèi)衣商業(yè)模式的窠臼。

????至于Tommy John這樣的小公司如何與Jockey等內(nèi)衣巨頭競爭,科恩認為,市場容得下兩類公司共存?!笆袌錾洗嬖趦蓚€機會之窗。強調(diào)獨特和個性,瞄準高端消費者;或者把獨特與個性做到極致,使消費者能認識并喜愛你的品牌?!?/p>

????難道男士內(nèi)衣行業(yè)也將誕生一個維多利亞的秘密(Victor's Secret)?科恩稱我們不能期望太高,他強調(diào),盡管男士貼身衣物市場正在增長,但其規(guī)模仍只有女士內(nèi)衣市場的一半。

????可以肯定的是,男士內(nèi)衣正在走出石器時代,Tommy John這樣的小公司不容忽視?!澳銌栁沂欠裼X得富有創(chuàng)新能力的小公司能夠影響市場形勢?當(dāng)然可以?!?/p>

????譯者:小宇

????Tommy John is not alone in its quest. Industry giant Jockey is also changing their underwear game with a new "Stay Cool" line featuring Denver Broncos quarterback Tim Tebow as its spokesman.

????"Guys are starting to look for functional benefits in underwear," says Jockey Chief Marketing Officer Dustin Cohn. The company's "staycool" line has some of the same breathable features NASA astronauts enjoy in their space suits. "I think guys are catching up to women in intimates. Women are thoughtful about their clothes and what intimates make them look best. Men are becoming thoughtful, too."

????Cohn says Tebow was an ideal face for its new line, arguing that he appeals to both men and women. "[Tebow] is an authentic and honest athlete, appealing to the guys. The women like his personality and good looks." With its large consumer base, Jockey certainly wouldn't mind seeing the replenishment model fade.

????In recent years, men's fashion in general has undergone a significant shift, says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at consumer market research firm The NPD Group. "Over the past two years, men have become more concerned with fashion than they have been in several decades -- since the '70s."

????Today, Cohen says, men's products are being designed for specific applications. "Male consumers are being told this is the style and this is the product you need for X activity." Cohen cites Under Armour (UA) as a good example of a brand that has done a good job avoiding the typical undergarment business model.

????As for smaller companies like Tommy John versus behemoths like Jockey, Cohen argues that there's room for both. "There are two windows of opportunity in the market. Be unique and different and market to a higher-end customer. Or be so unique and different that consumer's recognize and want your brand."

????So is a Victor's Secret in the offing? Cohen says we shouldn't hold our breath, adding that the men's intimates market, while growing, is still half the size of the women's market.

????To be sure, men's underwear is leaving its Stone Age. And small companies like Tommy John should not be taken lightly. "Do I think a small player with a lot of innovation could make an impact on the market? Yes."

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