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理性至上的時(shí)尚新貴:Trina Turk

理性至上的時(shí)尚新貴:Trina Turk

《財(cái)富》 2013-03-01
創(chuàng)立服裝品牌Trina Turk時(shí),設(shè)計(jì)師特里娜?特克并沒(méi)有一個(gè)商業(yè)規(guī)劃,但卻在激烈的市場(chǎng)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)中站穩(wěn)了腳跟,還在紐約時(shí)裝周舉行了首場(chǎng)發(fā)布會(huì)。近日她接受《財(cái)富》采訪,暢談了沒(méi)有商業(yè)規(guī)劃、直接創(chuàng)立服裝品牌的利與弊。

????2月10日,時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師特里娜?特克在紐約時(shí)裝周(New York Fashion Week)舉辦了首場(chǎng)發(fā)布秀。她說(shuō),考慮到自己的服裝品牌是在1995年創(chuàng)立的,從品牌創(chuàng)立到舉辦發(fā)布秀,中間隔著相對(duì)較長(zhǎng)的時(shí)間。但是這對(duì)特克來(lái)說(shuō)恰到好處,她并不急著進(jìn)軍時(shí)裝周。

????特克把加州人特有的冷靜態(tài)度帶到了時(shí)裝界。她說(shuō)自己所有的設(shè)計(jì)靈感都來(lái)自黃金州。經(jīng)過(guò)17年的打拼,她不僅在美國(guó)各地開(kāi)設(shè)了時(shí)裝店,還把服裝賣給了不計(jì)其數(shù)的批發(fā)商。特克還在擴(kuò)張自己的品牌,使公司的經(jīng)營(yíng)范圍橫跨從寢具到iPhone保護(hù)套的多個(gè)品類。但這并不意味著她會(huì)為了籌備時(shí)裝周而開(kāi)夜車,或者將員工逼得太緊。

????特克在接受《財(cái)富》采訪時(shí)暢談了沒(méi)有商業(yè)規(guī)劃、直接創(chuàng)立服裝品牌的利與弊,以及如何在竟?fàn)帒K烈的行業(yè)中保持沉穩(wěn)。

????問(wèn):你的名字是整個(gè)品牌的主心骨。你的時(shí)尚理念是什么?

????答:我走到這一步并不是為了做新一代先鋒時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)師。我關(guān)心的是女性和她們?cè)谏钪械那袑?shí)需求,因?yàn)槲易约阂彩桥?。我覺(jué)得好看的、討人喜歡的東西并不一定非得是那種5,000美元的奢侈品。

????抱著這樣的理念,你如何物色富有創(chuàng)意的設(shè)計(jì)師?

????這是一個(gè)漸進(jìn)的過(guò)程。就在八年前,所有的事情都還是我一個(gè)人包攬,不管是畫(huà)圖還是設(shè)計(jì)。我慢慢組建起自己的設(shè)計(jì)團(tuán)隊(duì),讓所有的成員都知道,我并不是那么喜歡浮夸的設(shè)計(jì),也不喜歡褶皺和蝴蝶結(jié)。久而久之,他們領(lǐng)悟了這樣的美學(xué)思想。

????跟任何一位設(shè)計(jì)師開(kāi)始合作,都勢(shì)必要經(jīng)歷一個(gè)磨合的過(guò)程。我還沒(méi)有遇到過(guò)哪個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)師從一開(kāi)始合作就能完全了解你的理念?;蛟S有這樣的人,只不過(guò)我還沒(méi)有找到。

????你也給別的公司效力過(guò)。以前為別的設(shè)計(jì)師工作,現(xiàn)在創(chuàng)立了自己的品牌,你如何轉(zhuǎn)換自己的角色?

????老實(shí)說(shuō),我沒(méi)有做任何商業(yè)規(guī)劃就直接放手去干了。而且我也不知道自己何去何從。原本存了一小筆錢可供急用。那時(shí),我每天都得工作很長(zhǎng)時(shí)間,而且是一個(gè)人單干。我經(jīng)常開(kāi)車,載著布匹四處轉(zhuǎn)悠,然后把它們卸下來(lái)。這種事情我再也做不來(lái)了,真的是太瘋狂了。

????Fashion designer Trina Turk held her first show at New York Fashion Week on February 10. Given that she launched her own clothing line in 1995, that's a relatively long time without having a show at the event, she says. But that's just as well for Turk. She didn't feel the need to jump into that pool so quickly.

????Turk brings a California-cool attitude to fashion. All her designs are inspired by the Golden State, she claims. After 17 years, she has boutiques all over the country and also sells her clothing to numerous wholesalers. Turk is also expanding her brand to encompass everything from bedding to iPhone cases. But that doesn't mean that she's going to pull an all-nighter at Fashion Week or create a bummer of a work environment.

????Turk talks to Fortune about the pros and cons of launching a line without a business plan and how to stay low-drama in a cutthroat industry.

????Q: Your name is the backbone of the whole brand. What is your fashion philosophy?

????A:I'm not really here to be the next avant-garde fashion designer. I'm thinking about women and their practical concerns in their lives, because that's who I am. I think that something can be beautiful and flattering without being $5,000.

????How do you get creative designer-types on board with that?

????It's been this evolution. Up until eight years ago, I sketched and designed every single thing myself. And I slowly built a design team that understands that I don't really like fussy; I don't like little ruffles and bows. Over time, they learned the aesthetic.

????When you first start off with any designer, there's a learning curve. I've yet to have anybody start and immediately understand what we're trying to do here. Maybe that person is out there, but I haven't found them yet.

????And you've been there. How did you switch from working for other designers to starting your own line?

????You know, honestly, I never wrote a business plan. I just started. And I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I had a small amount of money from my own savings. I worked really long days, and it was just me. I was driving around with rolls of fabric in my car and dropping them off. I could never do it again, it was incredibly insane.

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