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洋品牌的中國(guó)“賣鞋經(jīng)”

洋品牌的中國(guó)“賣鞋經(jīng)”

Anne VanderMey,Brian Dumaine 2013-03-05
中國(guó)消費(fèi)者想要什么?正在進(jìn)軍中國(guó)市場(chǎng)的美國(guó)時(shí)裝、皮鞋制造商艾倫?埃德蒙茲公司CEO已經(jīng)找到了自己的答案。

????約一個(gè)世紀(jì)以來(lái),艾倫?埃德蒙茲(Allen Edmonds)一直致力于生產(chǎn)高端正裝男鞋。從里根到奧巴馬,每一位美國(guó)總統(tǒng)都穿過(guò)這個(gè)品牌。如今,這家總部位于威斯康辛州華盛頓港、年收入達(dá)1.22億美元的公司正在向東方擴(kuò)張,試圖尋找新的市場(chǎng)。公司最近在上海開設(shè)了第一家店鋪,它的正裝男鞋【想想電視劇《廣告狂人》(Made Men)】售價(jià)在175美元至695美元之間。筆者采訪了艾倫?埃德蒙茲CEO保羅?葛蘭格德。他講述了進(jìn)軍海外的真實(shí)感受。以下是他從中學(xué)到的三條經(jīng)驗(yàn)。

不要夸大差異

??? 進(jìn)入中國(guó)市場(chǎng)時(shí),艾倫?埃德蒙茲發(fā)現(xiàn),中國(guó)消費(fèi)者或許在吃上更希望像歐洲人一樣,但他們?cè)诖┥蠀s與美國(guó)人非常相似。公司在上海店鋪?zhàn)顣充N的皮鞋與美國(guó)店鋪完全一樣?!半m然中國(guó)人不太旅行,” 葛蘭格德說(shuō)?!暗贻p一代的中國(guó)人很有修養(yǎng),而且非?,F(xiàn)實(shí)。據(jù)我們所知,他們非常喜歡美國(guó)?!?/span>

宣揚(yáng)產(chǎn)品的真實(shí)可靠性

??? 葛蘭格德說(shuō):“中國(guó)人在吃、住上的花銷要少于美國(guó)人,而在穿上的花銷則更高?!惫玖私獾?,對(duì)于中國(guó)消費(fèi)者而言,非常重要的一點(diǎn)是,購(gòu)物袋上得印有進(jìn)口品牌的標(biāo)志。為了在中國(guó)市場(chǎng)脫穎而出,艾倫?埃德蒙茲決定強(qiáng)調(diào)自己作為高品質(zhì)美國(guó)鞋類制造商的悠久傳統(tǒng)。店鋪開業(yè)當(dāng)天,公司樹立了一塊顯示屏,用于展示艾倫?埃德蒙茲不同時(shí)期的制鞋技術(shù)。在一個(gè)到處充斥著“山寨”產(chǎn)品的市場(chǎng),葛蘭格德相信,對(duì)于希望進(jìn)軍中國(guó)市場(chǎng)的美國(guó)服裝制造商來(lái)說(shuō),強(qiáng)調(diào)產(chǎn)品的真實(shí)可靠性將是一個(gè)絕佳的切入點(diǎn)。他說(shuō):“中國(guó)消費(fèi)者希望買到正品;他們希望在實(shí)體店里購(gòu)買產(chǎn)品。”

慎選店鋪位置

??? 艾倫?埃德蒙茲在上海尋找零售位時(shí),中國(guó)業(yè)主都希望將購(gòu)物中心上面的樓層租給這家皮鞋制造商。對(duì)于艾倫?埃德蒙茲這樣一家知名度不高的小型品牌,在中國(guó)很難得到一流的鋪面。公司的中國(guó)特許經(jīng)營(yíng)合作伙伴警告他們,只有不受歡迎的品牌才會(huì)被安排在更高的樓層。艾倫?埃德蒙茲不得不沒(méi)完沒(méi)了的與物業(yè)面談,最后才找到一家商場(chǎng),愿意把二樓靠近自動(dòng)扶梯的黃金位置租給公司。葛蘭格德表示,公司租的店面每平方英尺的租金甚至高于洛克菲勒中心的租金。不過(guò),從開始的表現(xiàn)來(lái)看,這樣的租金確實(shí)值得——店鋪開業(yè)當(dāng)天,消費(fèi)者便蜂擁而至。公司計(jì)劃在上海再開兩家店鋪,在北京新開一家店鋪,而且以后將每年開設(shè)超過(guò)五家店鋪。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:劉進(jìn)龍/汪皓

????For almost a century, Allen Edmonds has been making high-end men's dress shoes. Every President from Reagan to Obama has worn the brand. Now the $122 million-a-year company, which is headquartered in Port Washington, Wis., is turning East in search of new markets. The company, whose dress shoes (think Mad Men) sell for $175 to $695, opened its first store recently in Shanghai. We caught up with Allen Edmonds' CEO Paul Grangaard who described what it was like to parachute into a foreign land. Here are three lessons he learned.

Don't overestimate the differences

??? On entering China, Allen Edmonds discovered that consumers might want to eat like Europeans, but they dress like Americans. The company's best-selling shoes in its Shanghai store are same as in its U.S. stores: "Even if they haven't traveled much," says Grangaard, "the new generation of Chinese are cultured and very worldly. What we learned is that they really like America."

Flaunt your authenticity

??? "The Chinese," says Grangaard, "spend a lot less on food and housing than Americans do, but they spend more on clothing." The company learned that it's very important for consumers to be seen with a shopping bag with an imported brand on it. To differentiate itself in the China market, Allen Edmonds decided to stress its long heritage as a high-quality American shoemaker. At its store opening, it created a display on Allen Edmonds shoemaking techniques throughout the ages. In a market rife with knock-offs, Grangaard believes that stressing the authenticity of a product is an opportunity for American clothiers who want to sell in China. "Chinese consumers want the real thing; they want products that have stories behind them," he says.

Don't get stuck on the fourth floor

??? When Allen Edmonds was looking for retail space in Shanghai, the Chinese landlords kept trying to lease the shoe company space on the upper floors of malls. It's hard for a small, lesser-known brand like Allen Edmonds to secure primo retail space in China. Its Chinese franchise partner warned them that only undesirable brands get relegated to the higher levels. Allen Edmonds had to interview numerous landlords before finding one willing to lease them prime space on the second floor near the escalator. Grangaard says that the space he leased is more expensive per square foot than Rockefeller Center, but the gambit looks like it will pay off -- the store was mobbed for its grand opening. The company plans to open two more stores in Shanghai and one in Beijing, and more than five stores per year thereafter.

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