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戶外用品公司菲爾森的大抱負(fù)

戶外用品公司菲爾森的大抱負(fù)

Ryan Bradley 2013-10-23
美國戶外服飾及用品公司已經(jīng)有150年的歷史,標(biāo)志性的產(chǎn)品是厚羊毛夾克,最初是為前往美國北部淘金的人服務(wù)。它曾經(jīng)出現(xiàn)過盲目擴(kuò)張的危險苗頭,但現(xiàn)在正在進(jìn)一步聚焦品牌,立志成為戶外用品行業(yè)里的愛馬仕。

????“如果有人要去北方,他應(yīng)該來我們這兒選外套,因為我們已經(jīng)從千百個北方人那里了解清楚了,去北方最適合穿什么?!薄狢.C. 菲爾森產(chǎn)品目錄,1914年

????每家公司的創(chuàng)業(yè)故事都至關(guān)重要。如果這個故事又始終和銷售宣傳水乳交融,那就更彌足珍貴了。菲爾森公司(Filson)很早以前就開始生產(chǎn)厚羊毛夾克、大包和其他配套戶外用品了(這些產(chǎn)品從來不用防水面料Gore-Tex或Velcro這種尼龍搭扣)。1897年,公司創(chuàng)始人克林頓?菲爾森在西雅圖開始了他的創(chuàng)業(yè)生涯,向前往克朗代克地區(qū)(加拿大育空河流域的黃金產(chǎn)地——譯注)淘金的勘探者們提供戶外用品。這段歷史是菲爾森公司及其非凡魅力的關(guān)鍵所在。一百多年來,人們——主要是男性——只要是從事打獵、釣魚、勘探、伐木和其他戶外活動,都會無一例外地信賴C.C.菲爾森的產(chǎn)品。這就是吸引力,這就是真正的品牌。

????要堅持使用真材實料,同時又要讓業(yè)務(wù)大幅增長,這絕非易事。而這也正是菲爾森公司新任首席執(zhí)行官艾倫?柯克所面臨的難題。菲爾森是一家私人公司,從不公布自己的銷售數(shù)字,但自從2010年來,它的營收每年遞增25%;它的夾克和包在《時尚先生》(Esquire)、《GQ》和《名利場》(Vanity Fair)這些頂級雜志上高調(diào)登場。今年,這家公司將在倫敦開店,明年感恩節(jié)將在阿斯彭開店,三月再赴紐約開店。柯克的艱巨任務(wù)是,帶領(lǐng)這家突然成為“城市樵夫”們首選品牌的公司保持小規(guī)模、獨特且經(jīng)久不衰的感覺——同時還要實現(xiàn)增長和現(xiàn)代化。柯克已經(jīng)親眼目睹了一家公司因為無法駕馭這種挑戰(zhàn)而敗下陣來,它就是西雅圖另一家歷史悠久的戶外用品公司,也是柯克的前東家——艾迪?鮑爾公司(Eddie Bauer)。它因為過度擴(kuò)張而最終走向了崩潰。

????20世紀(jì)70年代中期被通用磨坊公司(General Mills)收購后,艾迪?鮑爾公司就開始大舉進(jìn)入各大商場,把自己的品牌標(biāo)志和品牌情感借給了福特公司(Ford)用于“探險者”(Explorer)這類越野車,同時還在歐洲和日本成立了合資企業(yè),還開始進(jìn)軍家居用品市場,并開發(fā)了各季便服和商務(wù)正裝。到了上世紀(jì)90年代末,這家公司的銷售一舉沖上了歷史最高點,但隨后就跌入了谷底。最終到了21世紀(jì)初,這家公司一共已經(jīng)經(jīng)歷了兩次破產(chǎn)。今天,它又重新開始賣起了戶外探險裝備,并大肆宣傳自己作為登山者裝備供應(yīng)商的輝煌歷史(它曾贊助了美國首支珠峰登頂探險隊)。重新?lián)炱鹄媳拘姓媸菍λ^去三十年業(yè)績猛增的絕大諷刺。把品牌標(biāo)志及用戶情感濫用于太多產(chǎn)品后,這個品牌就會變得毫無意義,核心用戶也會因此疏遠(yuǎn)品牌,它的業(yè)務(wù)也會隨之遭受重大損失。七個月前,柯克剛剛到菲爾森公司走馬上任時,他的第一要務(wù)就是要確保這家公司不會重蹈鮑爾公司那樣的多元化覆轍。

????他說:“我剛到公司的頭幾周里,主要任務(wù)就是和大家開展品牌整合工作?!彼榭戳怂麄兯玫恼掌?,回顧了菲爾森產(chǎn)品目錄過去這些年來所采用的不同風(fēng)格,甚至修改了品牌標(biāo)志??驴苏J(rèn)為這個標(biāo)志看上去“太潦草了”,于是他簡化了字體,去掉了潦草的筆畫,并“通過鏡頭”使其外形更緊湊集中。他說:“關(guān)鍵就在于要保持徹頭徹尾的一致性。”??

????"If a man is going North, he should come to us for his outfit, because we have obtained our ideas of what is best to wear in that country from the experience of the man from the North -- not merely one -- but hundreds of them." --C.C. Filson catalog, 1914

????Each company's founding myth is important, but the story matters more if it is bundled up in the sales pitch. Filson makes heavy wool jackets and hearty bags and other assorted outdoor gear from a bygone era (no Gore-Tex or Velcro here). Company founder Clinton C. Filson began in 1897, in Seattle, as an outfitter to prospectors headed to the Klondike for the gold rush. The story is central to what Filson is and the company's appeal. People -- men, almost exclusively -- have trusted C.C. Filson's product for more than 100 years for hunting, fishing, prospecting, logging, and other outdoor pursuits. That's the appeal, and that's the brand.

????The trick is to grow while remaining authentic. It's a problem Filson's newest CEO, Alan Kirk, is keenly aware of. Filson is a private company so it doesn't disclose sales figures, but its revenues have increased 25% year over year since 2010; its jackets and bags appear in the pages of Esquire and GQ and Vanity Fair; it opened a store in London this year and will open one in Aspen by Thanksgiving and New York City by March of next year. Kirk's job is to take this company that is suddenly the brand of choice for hip urban woodsmen and keep Filson feeling small, unique, and timeless -- all while growing and modernizing. Kirk has already seen one company stumble over this challenge, another historic Seattle outfitter that overexpanded to the point of implosion: his previous employer, Eddie Bauer.

????After General Mills (GIS) bought Eddie Bauer in the mid-1970s, the company aggressively expanded into malls and lent its logo and sensibility to the likes of Ford, for the Explorer, as well as to joint ventures in Europe and Japan, a home collection, and seasonal lines of casual and office wear. Sales made it to an all-time high in the late 1990s before they plummeted, and the company went bankrupt, twice, in the 2000s. Today it has returned to selling expedition gear and plays up its rich history as an outfitter of mountaineers (Bauer sponsored the first American summit of Everest). The return to form is a direct rebuke to the previous 30 years of growth. Lend a logo, and a sensibility, to too many things, and the brand becomes meaningless, the core customer alienated, and the business suffers. Kirk's first moves, when he arrived at Filson seven months ago, were aimed at preventing the sort of dilution that happened at Bauer.

????"The first few weeks I was here," he says, "We worked on absolute brand alignment." He looked at the photography they used, went back through the various styles the Filson catalog had taken on over the years, and even put the logo through a revision. Kirk says it felt "too squiggly." He cleaned up the font, got rid of the squiggles, and centralized the look "through one lens ... The key, throughout, is consistency," he says.

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