機(jī)芯供應(yīng)危機(jī)引發(fā)瑞士手表業(yè)地震
????一些大型制表商已經(jīng)變得警覺起來。 ????隸屬于法國奢侈品巨頭路易威登集團(tuán)( LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton)的豪雅手表公司(Tag Heuer)正在瑞士汝拉州金佛內(nèi)區(qū)建設(shè)一家零部件生產(chǎn)廠。此外,它也開始使用日本精工株式會社(Seiko,瑞士制表商的競爭對手之一)生產(chǎn)的零部件。 ????據(jù)圣人集團(tuán)副總裁法林透露,為了構(gòu)建自己的零部件生產(chǎn)廠,擁有波美名士(Baume et Mercier)、卡地亞(Cartier)和伯爵(Piaget)等品牌的瑞士奢侈品巨頭歷峰集團(tuán)(Richemont Group),正在投入數(shù)額不菲的研發(fā)資金。此外,該公司近些年來一直在收購小型零部件供應(yīng)商。 ????“歷峰集團(tuán)的手表機(jī)芯基本上實現(xiàn)了自給自足,”該公司一位發(fā)言人表示?!八刮昼骷瘓F(tuán)是我們公司的重要商業(yè)伙伴,我們的關(guān)系非常良好。我們并不認(rèn)為,近期宣布的這項裁定將對歷峰集團(tuán)的業(yè)務(wù)產(chǎn)生任何影響。” ????與此同時,Delance公司的掌門人魯弗則憂心如焚。“小公司將很難生存下去,”她說。“這樣的前景非常糟糕,因為這些公司恰恰是瑞士手表的創(chuàng)意靈感之源?!保ㄘ敻恢形木W(wǎng)) ????譯者:葉寒????? |
????Some large watchmakers have paid attention. ????Tag Heuer, part of French luxury group LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is building a parts plant in Chevenez. It has also begun using parts from Seiko, a Japanese rival to Swiss makers. ????Richemont Group, a giant Swiss luxury conglomerate with brands like Baume et Mercier, Cartier, and Piaget, is pouring money into research and development to create its own parts-manufacturing plants and has been buying up tiny parts suppliers in recent years, Farin said. ????"Richemont is largely self-sufficient in terms of watch movements," a company spokesman said. "The Group enjoys an excellent relationship with Swatch, which is an important business partner. We do not anticipate that the recently announced ruling will have any impact on Richemont's businesses." ????Delance's Rufer, meanwhile, is worried. "The small companies will find it very difficult to survive," she said. "That is very bad because the creativity is in their hands."???? |