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下一個(gè)珠寶奢侈品牌在中國(guó)?

下一個(gè)珠寶奢侈品牌在中國(guó)?

Jennifer Reingold 2014-01-02
中國(guó)香港的珠寶品牌麒麟目前已經(jīng)成功打入歐美市場(chǎng),擁有了一批明星粉絲。法國(guó)奢侈品集團(tuán)開云集團(tuán)首席執(zhí)行官兼CEO認(rèn)為,麒麟擁有奢侈品牌的一切要素。
麒麟BoBo吊墜,售價(jià)43,200美元。圖片提供:麒麟公司。

????我在脖子上掛了一個(gè)葫蘆。葫蘆是亞洲文化中有名的吉祥物,基本等同于西方的馬蹄鐵。我今天的確運(yùn)氣不錯(cuò),這款鑲有閃亮碎鉆的葫蘆在麒麟珠寶(Qeelin)的售價(jià)約50,000美元。這家亞洲珠寶公司現(xiàn)由法國(guó)奢侈品巨頭開云(Kering,前身為PPR)所有。

????坐在麒麟香港精品店內(nèi)考究的沙發(fā)上小憩,我的好運(yùn)還在延續(xù)。麒麟珠寶的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人兼創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)陳瑞麟讓我試戴一款由鉆石和紅寶石鑲嵌、連接處可以轉(zhuǎn)動(dòng)的熊貓(售價(jià)約60,000美元),一款荷花形戒指,扭開后會(huì)露出一朵花(43,000美元),還有其他很多有亞洲文化寓意的首飾。麒麟本身就是中國(guó)文化里的一種瑞獸,麒麟珠寶在亞洲和歐洲擁有19家店,現(xiàn)在在開云的幫助下——正在努力成為首批源自東方的成功奢侈珠寶品牌之一。著名歌手凱蒂?佩瑞、影星凱特?溫斯萊特等明星已經(jīng)是這些珠寶的粉絲。這些珠寶有簡(jiǎn)有繁,價(jià)格從440美元的小吊墜到600,000美元的定制產(chǎn)品,應(yīng)有盡有。

????但有人也許會(huì)問(wèn),為什么2012年銷售額達(dá)到134億美元、擁有古馳(Gucci)、圣羅蘭(Saint Laurent)和葆蝶家(Bottega Veneta)(這些備受敬仰的歐洲品牌日益依賴亞洲新貴)的開云會(huì)收購(gòu)一家成立僅十年的新星,特別是這樣一家決心證明杰出品質(zhì)并非歐洲手工藝人專屬的公司。部分原因是,麒麟符合開云收購(gòu)非競(jìng)爭(zhēng)領(lǐng)域頂級(jí)品牌的策略。但另外一個(gè)主要原因是開云首席執(zhí)行官兼董事長(zhǎng)弗朗索瓦-亨利?皮諾相信中國(guó)新貴將日益增加對(duì)本土品牌的支持,不再是一味青睞進(jìn)口。“(麒麟)擁有一個(gè)全球奢侈品牌的全部要素,”皮諾說(shuō)?!八鼘?duì)手工藝的要求非常高,設(shè)計(jì)一流。而且,不要忘了中國(guó)擁有全球五分之一的人口。因此,如果一個(gè)華人品牌能夠在華人市場(chǎng)取得成功,它就非常值得下注。”(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))??

????I have a Wulu around my neck. That's the Mandarin word for gourd, and a famous good-luck symbol in Asian culture roughly equivalent to the horseshoe in the West. I definitely do feel lucky today, because this particular wulu is inlaid with tiny, brilliant diamonds and retails for about $50,000 at Qeelin (pronounced KEE-lin), the Asian jewelry company now owned by French luxury giant Kering (formerly PPR).

????From my perch on a sofa in Qeelin's sleek Hong Kong boutique, my luck continues. Co-founder and creative director Dennis Chan lets me model a diamond- and ruby-encrusted panda whose joints swivel and move (price: roughly $60,000), a lotus-flower ring that twists open to reveal an inner flower ($43,000), and many other pieces of jewelry with symbolic meanings in Asian culture. Named for a mythical Chinese creature, Qeelin has 19 stores in Asia and Europe, where -- now with the help of Kering -- it is trying to become one of the first successful luxury jewelry brands originating ... in the East. Such celebrities as Katy Perry and Kate Winslet are already fans of the jewelry, which teeters on the edge between sophisticated and kitschy and ranges in price from $440 for a tiny pendant to $600,000 for custom-made pieces.

????But why, one wonders, would Kering, the $13.4-billion-in-2012-sales company that owns Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Bottega Veneta -- venerable European brands now increasingly dependent on the new Asian wealthy for their sales -- buy a 10-year-old upstart, especially one bent on proving that great quality isn't the sole provenance of European craftsmen? In part, Qeelin fits with Kering's strategy of buying top brands in areas where it doesn't already compete. But another major reason is that Fran?ois-Henri Pinault, CEO and chairman of Kering, believes the new wealthy in China will increasingly support homegrown brands rather than always importing them. "[Qeelin] has all the components of a global luxury brand," Pinault says. "It is very demanding in terms of craftsmanship and has strong design. And let's not forget that China is one-fifth of the world population. So if a Chinese brand could succeed with the Chinese, then it's very interesting to take that bet."??

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