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李維斯CEO:別洗牛仔褲

李維斯CEO:別洗牛仔褲

Jennifer Reingold 2014年05月23日
李維斯公司CEO奇普?伯格在《財(cái)富》綠色頭腦風(fēng)暴大會(huì)上透露,牛仔褲全部用水量中生產(chǎn)只占一半,另一半是顧客買(mǎi)回家之后為了保證褲子顏色對(duì)頭,反復(fù)水洗用的水。所以,為了環(huán)保,他身上穿的牛仔褲已經(jīng)一年沒(méi)洗了。

今天我們來(lái)說(shuō)說(shuō)一個(gè)具有悠久歷史的時(shí)裝品牌:5月20日是李維斯(Levi's )501牛仔褲的141歲生日。在《財(cái)富》雜志(Fortune)于加州拉古納尼古爾主辦的綠色頭腦風(fēng)暴大會(huì)(Brainstorm Green)上,李維斯CEO奇普?伯格表示,“我們把可持續(xù)服裝做到了極致。如果你購(gòu)買(mǎi)我們的牛仔褲,它們的使用壽命將比大多數(shù)人的腰圍長(zhǎng)得多。”伯格說(shuō),李維斯也是二手服裝店的頭號(hào)品牌。

????在這個(gè)一次性或“快速”時(shí)裝依然占主導(dǎo)地位的時(shí)代,李維斯公司(Levi Strauss & Co)多少有點(diǎn)另類(lèi)。它的服裝不僅以耐用性和長(zhǎng)壽著稱(chēng),而且這家公司也遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)領(lǐng)先于可持續(xù)發(fā)展曲線(xiàn),尤其是對(duì)于一個(gè)服裝公司而言。

????伯格討論的最有創(chuàng)意的想法之一是Dockers品牌旗下的一個(gè)小時(shí)裝系列,它是該公司W(wǎng)ellthread行動(dòng)的組成部分。用他的話(huà)說(shuō),“這個(gè)單詞的每一面都是可持續(xù)的,”意味著經(jīng)濟(jì)和社會(huì)發(fā)展的可持續(xù)性。這款服裝不僅更加環(huán)保(面料更易于回收,耗費(fèi)的能源和水也比過(guò)去少得多),而且它的加工工廠(chǎng)按照高標(biāo)準(zhǔn)來(lái)衡量工人們的福利。就目前而言,它只是一個(gè)實(shí)驗(yàn),這款“高價(jià)”產(chǎn)品已在歐洲門(mén)店上市(美國(guó)消費(fèi)者需要在網(wǎng)上購(gòu)買(mǎi)),但伯格說(shuō),早期的銷(xiāo)售成績(jī)“讓他備受鼓舞”。

????此外,談到該公司如何減少水消耗時(shí),伯格也說(shuō)了一些令人驚訝的事情。牛仔褲的生產(chǎn)用水只占用水量的一半,這意味著另一半是在家中消耗的——為了保證褲子顏色正,更加合身,顧客反復(fù)地洗他的牛仔褲。李維斯正在生產(chǎn)一款名為“無(wú)水”(Waterless)的系列產(chǎn)品,消費(fèi)者現(xiàn)在可以在門(mén)店訂購(gòu)。

????如果你想為可持續(xù)發(fā)展盡一份力,伯格提出了另一個(gè)建議:別洗牛仔褲?!斑@條牛仔褲還沒(méi)有見(jiàn)過(guò)洗衣機(jī)呢,”他說(shuō)的是自己身上那條已經(jīng)穿了一年的深藍(lán)色牛仔褲?!拔也](méi)有患上皮膚病。”盡管如此,人們還是希望在這條牛仔褲慶祝它的第二個(gè)生日(更不用說(shuō)第141個(gè)生日)之前,奇普?伯格最好能把它洗一洗。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:葉寒

????Talk about fashion with a long lead time: Today, May 20, marks the 141st birthday of the Levi's 501 jean. As CEO Chip Bergh remarked at Fortune's Brainstorm Green conference in Laguna Niguel, Calif., "We are the ultimate in sustainable apparel. If you buy [our jeans] they will last a lot longer than most people's waistlines will." Levi's are also, Bergh said, the No. 1 brand in secondhand apparel stores.

????At a time when throwaway, or "fast" fashion remains dominant, Levi Strauss & Co. is something of an anomaly. Not only are its clothes known for their durability and longevity, but the company is far ahead of the sustainability curve, especially for an apparel company.

????One of the most innovative ideas Bergh discussed was part of the company's Wellthread initiative, a small Dockers collection that is, in his words, "sustainable in every facet of the word," which means both economically and socially sustainable. Not only are the clothes much greener -- made with much less energy and water out of fabrics that are easier to recycle -- but they are manufactured in plants where workers' well-being is measured and meets high standards. For now, it's just an experiment, and a "premium-priced" one at that, available in Europe (and online in the U.S.), but Bergh says he is "encouraged" by early results.

????Bergh also had some surprising things to say about how to reduce water use in his business. Only half of water usage happens in the jean production process, which means that the other half happens at home, when the customer washes his jeans repeatedly in order to end up with the right color and fit. Levi's is producing a line of products called "Waterless," which you can request in stores.

????And if you want to do your part for sustainability, Bergh has another idea: Stop washing your jeans. "These jeans have yet to see a washing machine," he said of the dark blue pair he wore onstage, which he's owned for an entire year. "I have yet to get a skin disease." Still, one has to hope those jeans will be washed before they celebrate their second birthday -- let alone their 141st.

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