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拋棄比伯低齡粉絲,伊麗莎白?雅頓移情高端市場(chǎng)

拋棄比伯低齡粉絲,伊麗莎白?雅頓移情高端市場(chǎng)

Phil Wahba 2014年06月26日
化妝品公司伊麗莎白?雅頓計(jì)劃重組,打算放棄某些名人香水市場(chǎng),比如小甜甜、泰勒?斯威夫特和賈斯汀?比伯等一系列青春偶像品牌香水。

賈斯汀?比伯展示以他名字命名的品牌香水。

????伊麗莎白?雅頓公司(Elizabeth Arden )發(fā)現(xiàn),一味追求大眾化市場(chǎng)和名人效應(yīng),非但沒(méi)能如愿盈利,還把公司拖進(jìn)了死胡同。

????伊麗莎白?雅頓化妝品公司總部位于紐約,前些年曾推出泰勒?斯威夫特和賈斯汀?比伯等名人香水。但這家公司為了降低每年4,000萬(wàn)-5,000萬(wàn)美元的管理費(fèi)用,計(jì)劃重組業(yè)務(wù)。作為重組行動(dòng)的一部分,這家周二宣布裁撤冗員,放棄某些不盈利的業(yè)務(wù)和香水授權(quán)協(xié)議。

????幾年前,伊麗莎白?雅頓公司開(kāi)始野心勃勃地進(jìn)軍名人香水市場(chǎng)——推出小甜甜布蘭妮、泰勒?斯威夫特和賈斯汀?比伯系列香水——試圖與科蒂集團(tuán)(Coty)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)。經(jīng)過(guò)幾年努力,伊麗莎白?雅頓公司發(fā)現(xiàn)利用大眾化市場(chǎng)渠道營(yíng)銷的策略使公司很容易受到低端市場(chǎng)影響:幾年前,一家大眾市場(chǎng)零售商大批量減少了訂單,致使伊麗莎白?雅頓公司的銷售業(yè)績(jī)出現(xiàn)大幅下滑?!倦m然它沒(méi)有披露這家零售商的名稱,但華爾街分析師猜測(cè)是沃爾瑪百貨(Wal-Mart Stores)】。

????有鑒于此,伊麗莎白?雅頓公司決意削減開(kāi)支,放棄某些典型的低價(jià)名人和設(shè)計(jì)師授權(quán)品牌(目前還沒(méi)有確定具體是哪些項(xiàng)目)把營(yíng)銷重點(diǎn)放在復(fù)興高端同名品牌上,同時(shí)更加專注在公司新進(jìn)的海外市場(chǎng)推廣旗下的名品。五月份,它指示高盛銀行家們?yōu)樗鼘ふ覞撛诘馁I(mǎi)家,還宣布了一個(gè)“業(yè)績(jī)改進(jìn)計(jì)劃”,希望經(jīng)歷了業(yè)績(jī)平平的幾年之后,能夠通過(guò)這些努力再次站穩(wěn)腳跟。(去年,這家公司不得不多次下調(diào)業(yè)績(jī)預(yù)期。)

????伊麗莎白?雅頓公司仍然需要解決另一個(gè)難題。近年來(lái)它一直主攻香水市場(chǎng),而其它化妝品公司【如雅詩(shī)?蘭黛(Estee Lauder)等】則不惜花費(fèi)百萬(wàn)美元,用于研制品質(zhì)更好的護(hù)膚品,這才是發(fā)展最快的美容行業(yè)。

????晨星公司(Morningstar)分析師艾琳?拉什的研究領(lǐng)域覆蓋整個(gè)美容行業(yè),并不是專門(mén)研究伊麗莎白?雅頓公司。她評(píng)價(jià)說(shuō):“香水市場(chǎng)的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)一直非常激烈,而且魚(yú)龍混雜。與此同時(shí),護(hù)膚品行業(yè)一直是化妝品公司的投資重點(diǎn)?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:Joseph

????Elizabeth Arden RDEN -3.14% is discovering that chasing the mass market and celebrities can lead to a cul-de-sac rather than to riches.

????The New York-based beauty company, which makes fragrances for stars such as Taylor Swift and Justin Bieber, on Tuesday said it was cutting jobs, and planning to drop some unprofitable businesses and fragrance license agreements as part of a restructuring effort aimed at lowering its overhead costs by $40 million to $50 million annually.

????A few years ago, Elizabeth Arden got aggressive in the celebrity fragrance market—its roster now includes fragrances by Britney Spears, Taylor Swift, and Justin Bieber—in an attempt to go toe-to-toe with Coty COTY -1.24% . It also has found itself very exposed to the lower-end market after years of pushing into the mass market channel: a couple of years ago, it got dinged when a mass market retailer dramatically cut back on orders. (It didn’t say which one, but Wall Street analysts surmised it was Wal-Mart Stores WMT 0.24% .)

????And so now it is trying to retrench, dropping some celebrity and designer licenses (it didn’t say which), which are typically lower-priced items, and putting more emphasis on reviving its higher-end namesake brand, along with a more concerted effort to push its prestige products, particularly overseas where Arden has been a latecomer. In May, about the time it instructed its Goldman Sachs bankers to potentially look for buyers, Elizabeth Arden announced its “Performance Improvement Plan,” aimed it helping its get back on its feet after a few years of middling sales. (It has repeatedly had to revise forecasts downward in the past year.)

????Another big problem for Elizabeth Arden is that it is very exposed to fragrance at a time companies like Estee Lauder EL -0.41% are pumping millions into research to develop better skin care products, the fastest growing area of the beauty industry.

????“In fragrance, there’s been a lot of competition, and it tends to be more discretionary. At the same time, skin care has been getting a lot of investment from beauty companies,” said Morningstar analyst Erin Lash, who covers the beauty industry, though not Elizabeth Arden specifically.

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