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奢侈品牌保值能力紅黑榜

奢侈品牌保值能力紅黑榜

Erin Griffith 2014年07月15日
奢侈品都被稱作投資品,但到底哪一個品牌最保值?專業(yè)奢侈品寄售平臺研究對比了500個設(shè)計師品牌的500,000件奢侈品的交易情況之后得出了一個令人意外的結(jié)論。

????奢侈品被稱為“投資品”自然有其理由。不論是22,000美元一件的普羅恩薩?施羅(Proenza Schouler)手提包,還是9,000美元一件的拉夫?勞倫(Ralph Lauren)裙子,奢侈品的本意是終生保值。因此,二手的設(shè)計師商品成了最具有吸引力的在線寄售商品類別。

????一家叫做The RealReal的網(wǎng)站今年的銷售額將達(dá)到1億美元。(這家公司從每筆銷售中抽成。)最近,這個網(wǎng)站對來自500個設(shè)計師品牌的500,000件奢侈品進(jìn)行了研究,希望找出轉(zhuǎn)售價值最高的品牌和保值時間最長的品牌。這家初創(chuàng)公司發(fā)現(xiàn),香奈兒(Chanel)、克里斯提?魯布托(Christian Louboutin)和愛馬仕(Hermès)保值時間最長。托德斯(Tod’s)與范思哲(Versace)則貶值最快。

????而更令人意外的,或許是轉(zhuǎn)售價值最高和最低的品牌。相比瑪尼(Marni)、亞歷山大?王(Alexander Wang)、菲利林3.1(3.1 Philip Lim)和馬克?雅各布(Marc Jacobs)等品牌,紀(jì)梵希(Givenchy)、維多利亞?貝克漢姆(Victoria Beckham)、夏洛特?奧林匹亞(Charlotte Olympia)和亞歷山大?麥昆(Alexander McQueen)等品牌奢侈品的轉(zhuǎn)售價格更接近原價。

????The RealReal首席商務(wù)官拉蒂?萊維斯克表示,服裝或奢侈品的轉(zhuǎn)售價值會因為與設(shè)計師有關(guān)的傳聞而出現(xiàn)波動,尤其是時裝公司聘用新的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)或首席執(zhí)行官的情況下。她道:“菲比?菲絡(luò)加入賽琳(Céline)擔(dān)任創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)就提高了這個品牌的轉(zhuǎn)售價值?!?/p>

????但比設(shè)計師的流動更重要的是奢飾品的可獲得性與折扣。據(jù)奢侈品行業(yè)調(diào)研機(jī)構(gòu)奢侈品協(xié)會(Luxury Institute)CEO米爾頓?佩德瑞扎表示,如果一個奢侈品牌經(jīng)常在名品折扣店或通過限時搶購的方式在線打折出售,消費者會認(rèn)為,他們就沒有必要全價購買這個品牌的商品。嬰兒潮一代會在線搜索某件商品,然后到店鋪中購買,但千禧一代的做法卻截然相反。他們會事先到店鋪中查看一款商品,然后在網(wǎng)上以最劃算的價格購買。

????佩德瑞扎說:“如今,消費者可以通過各種方式,利用奢侈品進(jìn)行套利交易。因為消費者可以得到海量的信息,而市場卻效率低下。所以,奢侈品牌要決定允許哪些渠道銷售自己的商品時,必須慎重?!?/p>

????舉例來說:香奈兒和愛馬仕從來不在店鋪中舉行特價活動,而且名品折扣店的數(shù)量也極其有限。除了化妝品,香奈兒甚至從來不在網(wǎng)上出售自己的商品。佩德瑞扎說:“這在某種意義上給人一種純粹的感覺。”他說:“再加上這些品牌的設(shè)計品質(zhì)和底蘊,如果我購買一件這些品牌的奢侈品,我會想:‘哇哦,它肯定具備長期的投資價值?!?/p>

????下面是調(diào)查結(jié)果中排在首尾的部分奢侈品牌。(財富中文網(wǎng))

????There’s a reason they call them “investment pieces.” At $22,000 for a Proenza Schouler tote or $9,000 for aRalph Lauren dress, luxury goods are meant to last a lifetime and hold their value. That’s why the market for used designer goods is the most attractive category for online consignment.

????One such marketplace, a website called The RealReal, is on track to do $100 million in sales this year. (The company takes a cut of each sale.) The RealReal recently tapped its database of 500,000 luxury goods from 500 designer brands to find which brands have the highest resale value, and which ones hold their value the longest. The startup found that Chanel, Christian Louboutin, and Hermès hold their value the longest. Tod’s and Versace lose their value the fastest.

????Perhaps more surprising is which brands carry the highest and lowest resale value. Items from Givenchy, Victoria Beckham, Charlotte Olympia and Alexander McQueen all sell for much closer to their original price than goods from Marni, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Philip Lim, and Marc Jacobs.

????Resale values of fashion or luxury goods can fluctuate depending on buzz around a certain designer, particularly if a fashion houses hires a a new creative director or chief executive, according to Rati Levesque, Chief Merchant at The RealReal. “When Phoebe Philo joined Céline as the creative director, it added more resale value to the brand,” she says.

????But more important than buzz is availability and discounting. If a luxury brand frequently discounts its goods at outlet stores or online via flash sales, consumers will perceive that they don’t have to pay full price for that brand, says Milton Pedraza, CEO of Luxury Institute, a luxury industry research group. While baby boomer shoppers tend to research something online and then buy it in the store, millennials do it the other way around. They “showroom,” the term for checking out an item in the store before finding the best deal for it online.

????“These days you can find ways to arbitrage the brands, because you have so much information and the market is inefficient,” Pedraza says. “Brands have to be careful where they allow their product to be sold.”

????For example: Chanel and Hermès do not hold sales in their stores and they have a limited number of outlet stores. Chanel doesn’t even sell its goods online, with the exception of beauty products. “In that sense, it creates a perception of purity,” Pedraza says.” The brands then “back it up with design quality and heritage,” he says. “If I buy something, I will think, ‘Wow it has long term investment value.’”

????Below are some luxury brands that fall on both sides of the spectrum.

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