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昆蟲食品:下一波飲食潮流?

昆蟲食品:下一波飲食潮流?

Michael Casey 2014年07月29日
一波初創(chuàng)公司正在以蟋蟀等小動(dòng)物作為原料來(lái)生產(chǎn)昆蟲片、昆蟲棒和昆蟲粉等新型食品。他們看到了一個(gè)大機(jī)遇:消費(fèi)昆蟲蛋白質(zhì)對(duì)環(huán)境的損害要遠(yuǎn)低于傳統(tǒng)蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源——與雞、牛和豬相比,飼養(yǎng)、收獲和加工昆蟲耗費(fèi)的資源要少得多。因此,這類食品特別容易撥動(dòng)熱衷于可持續(xù)發(fā)展理念的當(dāng)代人的心弦。
????一位員工正在制作Chapul蟋蟀棒

????帕特?克勞利原本是美國(guó)猶他州的一名水資源規(guī)劃師,他一直熱衷于傳播水資源保護(hù)理念。但農(nóng)業(yè)界一心只想著如何從科羅拉多河抽取河水來(lái)滋養(yǎng)加利福尼亞州和西部其他州的農(nóng)作物,對(duì)于他的理論基本上置若罔聞,這讓克勞利非常沮喪。

????幾年前,這位34歲的漂流愛(ài)好者有機(jī)會(huì)聆聽(tīng)了一場(chǎng)TED演講,主題是可食用昆蟲。演講者把這些小動(dòng)物譽(yù)為驚人的蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源。而且,放棄諸如大豆和谷物這類傳統(tǒng)的蛋白質(zhì)來(lái)源,轉(zhuǎn)而利用小昆蟲,顯然具有節(jié)約用水的巨大潛力。他越聽(tīng)越覺(jué)得,可能是時(shí)候改變職業(yè)了。

????2011年,在抱著玩玩的心態(tài)飼養(yǎng)了一些用于動(dòng)物飼料的昆蟲之后,克勞利和妻子埃里卡?科爾特努克、聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人丹?奧尼爾以及幾個(gè)朋友在鹽湖城開(kāi)設(shè)了一家餐廳,開(kāi)始嘗試著以蟋蟀為原料制作面粉。是的,以蟋蟀為原料。具體流程是,先焙燒這些小蟲子,研磨成粉,然后將它們添加到一種還包括有機(jī)棗,堅(jiān)果和香料的混合物之中。

????一年后,他們推出第一款使用蟋蟀粉制作的能量棒——Chapul蟋蟀棒。每個(gè)能量棒包含大約25只蟋蟀,其蛋白質(zhì)含量據(jù)說(shuō)是競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手的兩倍。現(xiàn)在,這款能量棒已經(jīng)進(jìn)入200多家位于全美各地的保健食品、單車和極限運(yùn)動(dòng)商店。最新一家合作伙伴是總部位于科羅拉多州,在中西部和西部地區(qū)擁有100家門店的Natural Grocers連鎖零售公司。

????克勞利說(shuō),“我決定創(chuàng)建一種消費(fèi)產(chǎn)品,讓人們很容易邁出品嘗昆蟲的第一步,因?yàn)檫@種食品把昆蟲融入一種主食,這樣它就更像是一種營(yíng)養(yǎng)產(chǎn)品,這種吃法不算特別新奇。”留著一頭金色長(zhǎng)發(fā)的克勞利看上去頗像已故歌星科特?柯本?!斑@是一次完全受使命感推動(dòng)的嘗試。事實(shí)證明,市場(chǎng)對(duì)我們的努力做出了響應(yīng)?!?/p>

????3月份,當(dāng)克勞利身穿Chapul T恤,攜帶一個(gè)裝滿蟋蟀的容器出現(xiàn)在ABC電視臺(tái)收視率極高的創(chuàng)業(yè)節(jié)目《鯊魚坦克》(SharkTank) 時(shí),這種能量棒的知名度瞬間暴漲。參與這檔商業(yè)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)節(jié)目的創(chuàng)業(yè)者往往需要使出渾身解數(shù),向一組評(píng)委推銷他們的創(chuàng)業(yè)點(diǎn)子。乍一聽(tīng)克勞利介紹完,評(píng)委們紛紛表示,“你肯定是在開(kāi)玩笑,”“我絕對(duì)不會(huì)吃這玩意,”但他們隨后對(duì)這款產(chǎn)品產(chǎn)生了濃厚興趣。擔(dān)任評(píng)委的達(dá)拉斯小牛隊(duì) (Dallas Mavericks)老板馬克?庫(kù)班當(dāng)場(chǎng)拍板,承諾將投資5萬(wàn)美元購(gòu)買這家公司15%的股權(quán)(“讓我們吃一些蟋蟀吧,”他告訴克勞利)。

????“這是一個(gè)解決問(wèn)題的方法,”庫(kù)班通過(guò)Twitter表示?!拔覀冃枰玫牡鞍踪|(zhì)來(lái)源,假以時(shí)日,我認(rèn)為消費(fèi)習(xí)慣會(huì)發(fā)生變化?!?/p>

????事實(shí)上,除了Chapul之外,還有十幾家新公司正在嘗試著改變?nèi)藗兛创±ハx的方式。布魯克林的EXO公司正在制作蛋白質(zhì)能量棒。波士頓Six Foods公司打算銷售用蟋蟀粉制作的墨西哥炸玉米片??偛课挥诜鹆_里達(dá)州蓋恩斯維爾,由一位昆蟲學(xué)家創(chuàng)建的All Things Bugs公司也計(jì)劃向這個(gè)新興市場(chǎng)銷售自己的蟋蟀粉。與此同時(shí),至少有四家公司正在全球各地針對(duì)寵物食品,水產(chǎn)養(yǎng)殖或動(dòng)物飼料市場(chǎng)生產(chǎn)昆蟲,比如俄亥俄州的EnviroFlight公司和南非的AgriProtein公司。

????As a water planner in Utah, Pat Crowley had grown frustrated that his message of conservation was being largely ignored by an agriculture industry intent on siphoning off the Colorado River to keep crops in California and other Western states succulent.

????Then a few years ago, the 34-year-old whitewater rafting enthusiast was listening to a TED talk on edible insects, which touted the critters as a surprising potent source of protein. The more he heard about the potential water savings from swapping insects for traditional protein like soy and grains, the more he realized it might be time to change professions.

????After toying with farming insects in 2011 for animal feed, Crowley, his wife Erica Koltenuk, co-founder Dan O’Neill and several friends set up shop in a local restaurant in Salt Lake City and began experimenting with making flour from crickets. Yes, crickets– through a process whereby the bugs are roasted, ground into a powder, and added to a mixture that also includes organic dates, nuts and spices.

????A year later, they unveiled Chapul cricket bars, the first-ever energy bar made from cricket flour. The bars, each containing the equivalent of 25 crickets and claiming to contain twice the protein of their competitors, are now in over 200 health food, bike and extreme sports stores nationwide—the latest being Colorado-based Natural Grocers, a chain of 100 stores in the Midwest and West.

????“I decided to create a consumer product that would make it a very easy first step for people to try insects in a way that wasn’t a novelty but incorporate it into a staple food – make it more of a nutritional product,” says Crowley, who has long blond hair and bears a passing resemblance to the late Kurt Cobain. “This was definitely a mission-driven endeavor. It turns out the market has been responsive to it.”

????The bar got a huge boost when Crowley, dressed in a Chapul T-shirt and carrying a container of crickets, was selected to appear in March on the entrepreneur show Shark Tank, the hit business competition show on ABC in which entrepreneurs pitch their ideas to a panel of judges. After initial reactions of “you gotta be kidding” and “there is no way I’m eating that,” the panel warmed to the product—and panelist and Dallas Mavericks owner Mark Cuban agreed to invest $50,000 for a 15 percent stake in the business (“Let’s eat some crickets,” he told Crowley).

????“It’s a solution to a problem,” Cuban said via Twitter. “We need better sources of protein and over time I think consumer habits will change.”

????In fact, Chapul is just one of a dozen or more new companies attempting to change the way Americans look at bugs. Brooklyn-based Exo is making protein bars, Boston-based-Six Foods is planning to sell tortilla chips made from cricket flour, and All Things Bugs, a Gainesville, FL-based firm founded by an entomologist, is looking to sell its own cricket flour to this burgeoning market. EnviroFlight in Ohio and AgriProtein in South Africa, meanwhile, are among at least four companies globally producing insects for the pet food, aquaculture or animal feed markets.

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