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想要拯救中國環(huán)境的商界母女

想要拯救中國環(huán)境的商界母女

Nina Easton 2014-11-20
PYE首席執(zhí)行官潘楚穎與她的母親,香港溢達(dá)集團(tuán)董事長楊敏德共同出席了《財富》“最具影響力女性國際峰會”。溢達(dá)集團(tuán)在桂林的工廠將配建一所博物館,多個展覽館,展示中國企業(yè)如何實現(xiàn)可持續(xù)經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展。

????上周,中美氣候協(xié)議登上了新聞頭條,與此同時,香港的一對母女也在講述自己的宏偉愿景:為中國企業(yè)界和消費群體注入環(huán)保風(fēng)氣。

????上周二,在香港舉行的《財富》“最具影響力女性國際峰會”(Fortune Most Powerful Women International Summit)上,紡織巨頭香港溢達(dá)集團(tuán)(Esquel)董事長楊敏德在臺上告訴我:“我們希望做一個小小的阿斯彭[研究所],人們可以在此討論可持續(xù)發(fā)展模式2.0?!?/p>

????在關(guān)于中國日益嚴(yán)重的污染和廢棄物問題的討論中,楊敏德正成為舉足輕重的一員。作為哈佛的MBA【同時還擁有麻省理工學(xué)院(MIT)數(shù)學(xué)學(xué)位】,楊敏德在過去十年將可持續(xù)做法應(yīng)用于自身工廠。其工廠生產(chǎn)拉爾夫?勞倫(Ralph Lauren)、Banana Republic以及Tommy Hilfiger等品牌的襯衫。楊敏德還在其5.9萬名員工(其中大部分為女性)中推行了員工友好實踐。如今,她決心將這種思維推廣到自己的工廠之外。不過,我們待會兒再來講這個以及楊敏德的“小阿斯彭”。

????我們先來認(rèn)識下楊敏德的女兒——現(xiàn)年32歲的潘楚穎。潘楚穎的父親是Harvey Nichols百貨公司零售巨頭潘迪生。潘楚穎的青春期是在溢達(dá)集團(tuán)工廠和Harvey Nichols百貨公司門店中度過。楊敏德不久前問潘楚穎有沒有看謝麗爾?桑德伯格的大作《向前一步》(Lean In),潘楚穎承認(rèn)自己還沒讀完——她自身的經(jīng)歷正是書中描寫的那樣。

????不過,潘楚穎在哈佛學(xué)的不是商科,而是哲學(xué)。她20多歲時嘗試了很多事情,拍過短片,開過快閃店,后來才回到溢達(dá)集團(tuán),著手振興其母創(chuàng)建的襯衫品牌。該品牌名為PYE,字母組合反映了楊敏德對數(shù)學(xué)、利潤以及時尚的激情。(買家們注意,潘楚穎目前正在曼哈頓尋找零售空間。)

????潘楚穎向筆者表示,接手PYE“在某種程度上救了我一命。我需要約束,不然我什么都想干。”現(xiàn)在,潘楚穎的工作重心是打造一個圍繞經(jīng)典白襯衫的品牌,主要是針對男性客戶。這對母女檔上臺時都穿著PYE牌白襯衫,并開玩笑稱,潘楚穎從小到大,他們母女都沒有機(jī)會穿相似的衣服。

????同其母親一樣,潘楚穎大談可持續(xù)性。她表示:“我們希望我們的襯衫品牌能分享我們的生活理念?!迸顺f對客戶的承諾是:“保證我們會盡己所能的踐行環(huán)保理念、道德標(biāo)準(zhǔn)以及可持續(xù)性?!?/p>

????不過,如今這對母女最注重的是可持續(xù)性,并即將擴(kuò)展到溢達(dá)集團(tuán)之外。他們稱,可持續(xù)性可追溯到楊敏德從事實業(yè)的祖父。本周,楊敏德將主辦一場由學(xué)術(shù)界和其他商界領(lǐng)袖參與的會議,推出一項“The Integral”的倡議。

????Integral意指不斷追求完美的佛教理念,力求使企業(yè)領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者將注意力集中到如何在嚴(yán)重污染和掠奪式資源開發(fā)的中國,發(fā)展出更平衡的增長模式。楊敏德此舉正當(dāng)其時,未來30年,中國將有3億農(nóng)村人口遷徙到城市,而現(xiàn)有存量房只夠容納其中半數(shù)人口(有人估計中國將新建2萬到5萬座摩天大樓)。中國有220座城市人口將突破百萬大關(guān)。

????While the US-China climate deal grabbed headlines this week, a mother-daughter team on the ground in Hong Kong were mounting their own ambitious vision: To inject environmental protection into the ethos of China’s business and consumer community.

????“We want to make a little Aspen [Institute] where people can discuss a sustainable development model 2.0,” Marjorie Yang, chair of the textile giant Esque, told me on stage at the Fortune Most Powerful Women International Summit in Hong Kong on Tuesday.

????In discussions of China’s mounting pollution and waste problems, Yang is emerging as a power player. Over the past decade, the Harvard MBA (who also happens to sport an MIT math degree) has applied sustainable practices to her factories, which produce shirts under labels like Ralph Lauren [fortune-stock symbol-, Banana Republic and Tommy Hilfiger. She’s also instituted worker-friendly practices for her 59,000-person (mostly female) workforce. Now she’s bent on taking that thinking beyond her own industry. But more on that—and Yang’s “l(fā)ittle Aspen”—in a minute.

????First meet Yang’s daughter—32-year-old Dee Poon, whose father is Harvey Nichols retail tycoon Dickson Poon. Hers was a youth in Esquel factories and Harvey Nichols stores. When her mother recently asked Poon if she had read Sheryl Sandberg’s book Lean In, Dee confessed she hadn’t finished it—she’d already grown up in that life.

????But Poon studied philosophy, not business, at Harvard. She spent her 20s doing everything from making a short film to opening a pop-up store before returning to Esquel to revitalize the shirt brand her mother founded. The brand is called PYE, a combo of symbols reflecting Marjorie’s passion for math, profits, and fashion. (Note to shoppers—Dee is currently shopping for retail space in Manhattan.)

????Poon told me that taking over PYE “in some ways saved my life. I need a constraint or I want to do everything.” Now her focus is building a brand around classic white shirts, mostly for men. The mother-daughter duo showed up on stage in matching PYE white shirts, joking they had never had a chance to dress alike when Dee was growing up.

????Like her mother, Dee Poon relentlessly talks sustainability. “We want a shirt brand that shares our life philosophy,” she said. Her commitment to customers: “Promising we can be as green and ethical and sustainable as we can be.”

????Now, though, this mother-daughter focus on sustainability—which they say dates back to Yang’s industrialist grandfather—is about to ramp up beyond Esquel. Next week, Yang is hosting a conference with academics and other business leaders to launch an initiative called “The Integral.”

????Named for the Buddhist concept of a continuous pursuit of perfection, Integral seeks to get business leaders to focus attention on how to produce a more balanced model of growth in a country notorious for its damaging pollution and rapacious resource hunger. Yang’s effort comes at a time when China is moving toward urbanizing 300 million people in the next 30 years. Half of the buildings needed to house that population have yet to be built (one estimate has China building 20,000 to 50,000 new skyscrapers)—with 220 cities breaking the one-million-population mark.

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