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優(yōu)衣庫承諾改善中國“血汗工廠”勞動環(huán)境

優(yōu)衣庫承諾改善中國“血汗工廠”勞動環(huán)境

John Kell 2015年01月21日
本月早些時候,香港非營利組織發(fā)布報告,批評優(yōu)衣庫兩大中國工廠車間溫度過高,通風(fēng)不良,空氣中布滿棉塵,地面污水橫流,工人為了維持收入必須加班工作,而且加班工資有時會算錯。優(yōu)衣庫母公司迅銷集團(tuán)迅速做出整改回應(yīng),承諾將在一個月內(nèi)檢視改善的進(jìn)度。

????日前,香港一家非營利組織批評稱,快時尚零售商優(yōu)衣庫的兩家中國工廠環(huán)境危險,且工時過長。作為回應(yīng),優(yōu)衣庫母公司承諾,將采取措施,改善兩家工廠的勞動環(huán)境。

????該非營利組織名為“大學(xué)師生監(jiān)察無良企業(yè)行動”,旨在維護(hù)工人權(quán)利。本月早些時候,該組織發(fā)布報告,批評優(yōu)衣庫有關(guān)針織面料和服裝的兩大中國供應(yīng)商工作條件不佳。該組織指出了工廠存在的一系列問題:工人為了維持收入必須加班工作,而且加班工資有時會算錯。報告中還提出:兩家工廠車間溫度過高,通風(fēng)不良,空氣中布滿棉塵,地面污水橫流等。

????在報告中,該組織提供了其調(diào)查結(jié)果的相關(guān)照片,并表示兩間工廠的工人未能得到代表,因而缺乏有效的發(fā)聲渠道。

????這家非營利組織在報告中寫道:“我們對兩家工廠的工人工作缺乏保障深感失望。我們相信,兩家工廠和優(yōu)衣庫有足夠的能力,為工人提供有尊嚴(yán)的工作環(huán)境?!?/p>

????優(yōu)衣庫母公司、總部位于日本的迅銷集團(tuán)迅速做出了兩項回應(yīng)。首先,迅銷立即回復(fù)稱公司致力于尊重人權(quán)、確保生產(chǎn)合作伙伴的員工獲得合適的工作條件。

????幾天后,在東京證券交易所和香港兩地上市的迅銷集團(tuán)又增加了一份更詳細(xì)的回應(yīng),稱其獨立調(diào)查發(fā)現(xiàn)了“超時工作等部分問題”。集團(tuán)負(fù)責(zé)企業(yè)社會責(zé)任的高管新田幸弘表示:“迅銷已強(qiáng)烈要求兩家公司迅速采取改善措施,同時我們也將予以全力配合以確保問題得到改善?!毙绿镄液氤兄Z,迅銷將在一個月內(nèi)檢視改善的進(jìn)度。

????迅銷要求其中一家工廠確保準(zhǔn)確記錄并報告所有勞動時間,并立即委托政府部門實施生產(chǎn)車間空氣質(zhì)量的測定和檢查,并立即確保生產(chǎn)車間干凈整潔。對于另一家工廠,迅銷承諾增加工人假期,減少工時,并檢查車間工作環(huán)境。

????對于兩家工廠,迅銷都希望監(jiān)督工廠管理,調(diào)查并取消對雇員的任何罰款或處罰。在非營利組織的報告中,曾披露工人如果出現(xiàn)失誤將面臨處罰,據(jù)稱此方法是為了控制和保持產(chǎn)品質(zhì)量。

????擁有近3萬名員工的迅銷集團(tuán),成立于1963年,其首家優(yōu)衣庫店鋪于1984年在日本開業(yè)。如今,迅銷集團(tuán)在日本服裝市場占有約6%的市場份額,增長主要依賴全球擴(kuò)張。公司旗下的優(yōu)衣庫連鎖店銷售相對廉價的服裝。近10年來,迅銷集團(tuán)銷售額年年增長,部分要歸功于不斷開設(shè)新店。(財富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:Hunter

????審稿: 李翔

????The parent company of fast-fashion retailer Uniqlo has vowed to take steps to improve working conditions at two Chinese factories, responding to criticism levied by a Hong Kong-based nonprofit that alleged unsafe working conditions and excessive long hours.

????A nonprofit called Students and Scholars Against Corporate Misbehavior (SACOM), which lobbies for workers’ rights, issued a report earlier this month that lamented the working conditions at two key Chinese suppliers of Uniqlo knit fabrics and apparel. The group raised a number of issues: workers having to log overtime hours to make a decent living, and the issue that overtime wages were at times miscalculated. Other allegations in the report included high temperatures at both facilities, as well as poor ventilation, with high cotton dust levels in the air and dirty sewage flowing on the floor.

????SACOM, which provided photos of its findings in the factories in the report, said workers were also unrepresented and thus had no effective platform to voice their complaints.

????“We are disappointed about the findings as the well-being of workers cannot be fully guaranteed in both factories,” SACOM said in the report. “We believe that both the factories and Uniqlo have enough capacity to provide a decent working environment to their workers.”

????Japan-based Fast Retailing has issued two swift responses. First, the company issued an immediate response touting a commitment to respecting human rights and ensuring appropriate working conditions for employees of production partners.

????In a more detailed response several days later, Fast Retailing, which is listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange with a secondary listing in Hong Kong, said its own independent inspection revealed “several issues, including long working hours.”

????“Fast Retailing has urged swift action against the factories on the issues identified in the SACOM report, and we will cooperate fully with them to ensure that improvements are made,” said Yukihiro Nitta, the executive that leads corporate social responsibility for Fast Retailing. The executive promised Fast Retailing would check progress within a month.

????The company instructed one of the factories to ensure working hours were recorded and reported correctly, and also requested a government agency conduct a thorough check of air quality and immediately ensure that the production floor is clean. For the second location, Fast Retailing moved to increase holidays for workers and make other improvements in working hours, as well as review the working environment at that facility.

????In both cases, Fast Retailing wants to monitor the management of the facilities, investigating and moving to eliminate any fines or punishments that are levied on employees. SACOM had alleged workers faced penalties if mistakes were made, which it claims is a method used to control and maintain product quality.

????Fast Retailing, with about 30,000 employees, was established in 1963 though it opened its first Uniqlo store in Japan in 1984. The apparel maker, which accounts for about 6% of the Japanese apparel market today, now relies mostly on global expansion to boost growth. The company’s Uniqlo chain sells relatively low priced apparel and first entered the U.S. market with a focus on urban locations. Fast Retailing has reported consistent annual sales growth for a decade, bolstered in part by adding more stores.

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