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Gap新CEO將發(fā)力女裝以重振品牌

Gap新CEO將發(fā)力女裝以重振品牌

Phil Wahba 2015年03月02日
去年,Gap品牌的可比銷(xiāo)售額下降了5%。其男裝、嬰兒裝等產(chǎn)品線(xiàn)的業(yè)績(jī)都不錯(cuò)。但最大的產(chǎn)品類(lèi)別——女裝業(yè)績(jī)不佳。公司CEO阿特?派克表示,重振Gap品牌是其“頭等要?jiǎng)?wù)”,而關(guān)鍵就在于提升女裝業(yè)務(wù)。派克承諾在今年晚些時(shí)候,推出更多彩色、印花和帶圖案的單品。

????Gap公司的同名品牌再度陷入困境。公司首席執(zhí)行官稱(chēng),一個(gè)更具靈感的女裝系列是讓這家連鎖零售商重拾活力的關(guān)鍵。

????去年,Gap品牌的可比銷(xiāo)售額下降了5%,同期,其姐妹品牌Banana Republic的銷(xiāo)售額持平,而平價(jià)品牌Old Navy的銷(xiāo)售額增長(zhǎng)了5%。Gap面臨來(lái)自H&M和優(yōu)衣庫(kù)等快時(shí)尚商家的激烈競(jìng)爭(zhēng),同時(shí),基本款服裝日益普遍。加之Gap的服裝設(shè)計(jì)乏善可陳,品牌號(hào)召力大不如前。

????為了重新站穩(wěn)腳跟,Gap最近取消了由明星設(shè)計(jì)顧問(wèn)麗貝卡?貝擔(dān)任的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)一職。加盟Gap僅兩年的麗貝卡,此前曾成功推出H&M旗下高端品牌Cos。Gap還聘請(qǐng)了新的品牌總裁。上周四,Gap公司首席執(zhí)行官阿特?派克表示,重振Gap品牌是其“頭等要?jiǎng)?wù)”,而這意味著專(zhuān)注于提升女裝業(yè)務(wù)。派克在幾年前曾親自執(zhí)掌Gap品牌。

????上周,派克在出任公司首席執(zhí)行官后,首次出席收益電話(huà)會(huì)議,他表示:“首先要重振女裝業(yè)務(wù)。這里存在審美問(wèn)題,我們正努力盡快解決該問(wèn)題?!北驹略缧r(shí)候,派克取代了擔(dān)任首席執(zhí)行官已久的格倫?墨菲?!耙_(dá)到我們預(yù)期的業(yè)績(jī),女裝業(yè)務(wù)必須馬力全開(kāi)?!?/p>

????Gap上周四還宣布,聘請(qǐng)了前L Brands高管文迪?戈德曼擔(dān)任新設(shè)立的Gap產(chǎn)品開(kāi)發(fā)設(shè)計(jì)副總裁一職。派克稱(chēng),這一職位是為戈德曼量身打造的。

????派克表示,雖然Gap的牛仔女裝業(yè)務(wù)稍有起色,但該品牌的上裝,尤其是針織衫,缺乏時(shí)尚感,而且既不合身也不好看。談到Gap的女性顧客對(duì)現(xiàn)有商品興趣缺缺,派克說(shuō)道:“對(duì)現(xiàn)在的產(chǎn)品她們純粹是眼也不眨一下?!?/p>

????問(wèn)題是其春夏款商品已經(jīng)進(jìn)貨,因此,公司警告稱(chēng),“Gap品牌局勢(shì)扭轉(zhuǎn)較慢”將影響其新財(cái)年的利潤(rùn)。

????在其他方面,Gap可謂是其自身問(wèn)題的始作俑者。在供應(yīng)鏈提速方面,Gap落在了姐妹品牌之后,這使其無(wú)法迅速對(duì)大熱或受冷的時(shí)尚潮流做出反應(yīng),也無(wú)法迅速應(yīng)對(duì)H&M和優(yōu)衣庫(kù)的動(dòng)作。因此,派克將縮短Gap的產(chǎn)品周期作為優(yōu)先事項(xiàng),并輔以其他改變,使Gap能迅速增加熱賣(mài)品的產(chǎn)量。

????2011年2月至2012年11月,派克曾擔(dān)任Gap北美區(qū)及其700家門(mén)店的總裁。他稱(chēng)自己的經(jīng)歷表明Gap品牌能東山再起。Gap曾有幾年苦苦掙扎,關(guān)了200家門(mén)店,但隨后在2013年憑借亮色牛仔褲和“潮流”單品大獲成功。事實(shí)上,派克承諾在今年晚些時(shí)候,推出更多彩色、印花和帶圖案的單品。

????Gap公司不能任由其年銷(xiāo)售額高達(dá)62億美元的同名品牌一蹶不振。Gap品牌貢獻(xiàn)了公司38%的銷(xiāo)售額,而且該品牌正向海外擴(kuò)張。Gap的男裝、嬰兒裝以及Fit產(chǎn)品線(xiàn)的業(yè)績(jī)都不錯(cuò)。但該品牌最大的產(chǎn)品類(lèi)別——女裝業(yè)績(jī)不佳。這種局面必須扭轉(zhuǎn)。

????派克稱(chēng):“我真希望Gap不是眼下這樣?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:Hunter

????審稿:李翔

????Gap Inc’s GPS 3.05% namesake brand is in a deep funk again. And the company’s CEO says that a much more inspired women’s wear collection is key to restoring the chain’s health.

????Gap’s comparable sales fell 5% last year, compared to a flat performance at sister chain Banana Republic and a 5% jump at value chain Old Navy. Gap has been facing stiff competition from fast fashion stores like H&M and Uniqlo, and basic clothing has become more of a commodity. Add to that mediocre fashion designs and you have an iconic but faltering brand.

????In an effort to find its footing again, Gap recently eliminated the role of creative director that had been held by star design consultant Rebekka Bay, whom it had hired just over 2 years earlier after she successfully launched H&M’s upscale Cos brand. Gap also hired a new brand president. Gap Inc CEO Art Peck, who headed the brand a few years ago himself, said on Thursday that fixing Gap brand was his “No. 1 priority.” And that means focusing on improving its women’s wear in particular.

????“It starts with righting the women’s business. There’s an esthetic issue, which we’re working on today with urgency,” Peck said, speaking on his first earnings call as CEO this week. Peck replaced longtime CEO Glenn Murphy earlier this month. “We need to have the women’s business hitting on all cylinders in order for the business the performances that we expect.”

????Gap also announced on Thursday it had hired former L Brands LB -0.13% executive Wendi Goldman to the newly created role of executive vice president for Gap product design and development. Peck acknowledged she has her work cut out for her.

????While women’s denim is showing a bit of improvement, Peck said that Gap is missing the mark fashion wise on tops, particularly wovens and knits, with poor fits and an unappealing esthetic. “She’s just not responding to the product there right now at all,” Peck said, referring to Gap’s female consumers disinterest in the current merchandise.

????The problem for Gap is that it has already bought for the spring and summer seasons, so it warned its profit for the brand-new fiscal year will be hit by a “slower turnaround at Gap brand.”

????Gap was also the author of its own problems in other ways. Gap was slower than its sister brands to speed up its supply chain, handcuffing it when it comes to responding to fashion hits or misses and reacting to what H&M and Uniqlo do. So Peck is making it a priority to shorten the product calendar at Gap, and is making other changes so it can quickly ramp up production of things are proving to be popular items.

????Peck, who was president of Gap North America and its 700 stores from February 2011 to November 2012, pointed to his own experience to prove the Gap brand can strike again. Gap had struggled for a few years, closed 200 stores, but then had a massive home run in 2013 with bright colored jeans and “on-trend” products. Indeed, Peck promised more color and print and patterns later this year.

????Gap Inc cannot afford to have its $6.2 billion-a-year namesake brand falter for very long. It generates 38% of the parent company’s sales, and the brand is expanding overseas. Its mens, babies, and Fit lines are doing well. But the biggest category in the Gap brand – women- is not. And that has to change.

????“I wish Gap was in a different place,” Peck said.

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