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奢侈品將在中國(guó)東山再起

奢侈品將在中國(guó)東山再起

Phil Wahba 2015年03月31日
去年,中國(guó)奢侈品銷售有所放緩。但一份新報(bào)告指出中國(guó)的富裕階層正在不斷壯大,表明高端品牌未來在華仍有很大的增長(zhǎng)空間。

????這幾年,隨著中國(guó)中產(chǎn)階層逐漸迷上高檔時(shí)裝和珠寶,來自法國(guó)、意大利和美國(guó)的眾多奢侈品牌在中國(guó)發(fā)展得紅紅火火。

????但這種銷售熱潮正在消減,近來多家西方奢侈品零售商發(fā)布的令人失望的業(yè)績(jī)就是明證。盡管也有很多跡象表明,這種放緩只是暫時(shí)的。

????據(jù)貝恩咨詢公司統(tǒng)計(jì),去年中國(guó)的奢侈品銷售額比2013年下降了1%,跌至1150億元人民幣。中國(guó)經(jīng)濟(jì)放緩以及政府打擊貪污腐敗和送禮之風(fēng)對(duì)手表行業(yè)的影響尤其明顯,也是奢侈品銷量走低的主要原因所在。

????法國(guó)奢侈品牌愛馬仕表示,其腕表部門銷售業(yè)績(jī)?nèi)ツ晗禄?1%,很大程度上受中國(guó)奢侈品市場(chǎng)萎縮影響。該公司預(yù)計(jì),與近年平均水平相比,2015年的整體增長(zhǎng)將依然緩慢。普拉達(dá)2014年中國(guó)市場(chǎng)的銷售業(yè)績(jī)則下滑了4%,其預(yù)計(jì)今年奢侈品牌依舊面臨艱難處境。

????然而,以鉑金包和絲巾等聞名的愛馬仕一直在中國(guó)持續(xù)增設(shè)門店,就在幾個(gè)月前,它在上海的新旗艦店——愛馬仕之家開張。

????這一切是為什么?因?yàn)橛谐浞謹(jǐn)?shù)據(jù)表明,當(dāng)前中國(guó)的奢侈品銷售只是遇到了一個(gè)“減速帶”。

????由花旗委托經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)人智庫(kù)完成一份新研究報(bào)告稱,五年內(nèi),中國(guó)富人擁有的資產(chǎn)將是美國(guó)富人的兩倍。該報(bào)告指出,到2020年,身家在10萬到200萬美元的中國(guó)人擁有的金融資產(chǎn)總額將達(dá)53萬億美元,而美國(guó)僅為27萬億美元。

????也就是說,有很多人會(huì)想去普拉達(dá)、Gucci和蒂芙尼店里去購(gòu)物,以及購(gòu)買昂貴的雅詩蘭黛美妝產(chǎn)品。這些公司對(duì)此樂意之至。

????剛著手在中國(guó)擴(kuò)張業(yè)務(wù)的時(shí)裝公司Michael Kors最近表示,其在華銷售業(yè)績(jī)“開始穩(wěn)定下來”。這家公司的勁敵Coach則計(jì)劃在中國(guó)新開幾家門店,它最新一個(gè)季度的在華銷售額增長(zhǎng)了13%。另外,盡管深受內(nèi)地游客喜愛的蒂芙尼香港門店的假期銷售數(shù)字未達(dá)到預(yù)期,但它依然在全速推進(jìn)在華擴(kuò)張計(jì)劃。

????其他一些非奢侈品牌的西方公司也準(zhǔn)備在中國(guó)大展拳腳。擁有Old Navy等品牌的Gap公司計(jì)劃今年在中國(guó)新開40家門店。拉爾夫?勞倫去年在中國(guó)實(shí)現(xiàn)了兩位數(shù)的銷售增長(zhǎng),眼下將中國(guó)視為其“最至關(guān)重要”的市場(chǎng)之一。

????顯然,對(duì)奢侈品牌和零售業(yè)高層來說,中國(guó)市場(chǎng)放緩只是一個(gè)暫時(shí)的變化。

????雅詩蘭黛首席執(zhí)行官法布里吉奧?弗里達(dá)上個(gè)月說,“中國(guó)高檔美容產(chǎn)品市場(chǎng)仍保持著高單位數(shù)增長(zhǎng),我們看到這里遍布機(jī)會(huì),可以進(jìn)入更多的城市,建立新的門店和銷售渠道,并推出更多品牌?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:Pessy

????審校:Charlie

????For years, French, Italian and American luxury brands have thrived as China’s middle class developed a taste for high-end fashion and jewelry.

????But that sales boom is ebbing based on the disappointing results many Western luxury retailers have reported of late, though much suggests this slowdown will be short-lived.

????Last year, Chinese luxury sales fell 1% compared to 2013 at 115 billion RMB ($18.5 billion at current rates), according to a report by Bain & Co. A slowing Chinese economy and a government crackdown on graft and gift-giving that was particularly brutal on the watch industry is mostly to blame.

????French luxury brand Hermès said watch sales fell 11% in large part because of China, and the company is expecting overall growth this year to remain slow compared to recent averages. Meanwhile, Prada said it expects the tough times for luxury to continue after its China sales fell 4% in 2014.

????At the same time, Hermès, known for its highly coveted Birkin bags and horse-themed silk scarves that go for thousands of dollars each, has continued to expand its stores in China. That includes its flagship Maison Hermès in Shanghai a few months ago.

????Why? Because there is ample data to suggest that luxury’s current slowdown in China is but a speed bump.

????According to a new report by the Economic Intelligence Unit sponsored by Citigroup, China’s wealthy will have double the assets of their U.S counterpart within five years. By 2020, the financial assets of Chinese worth $100,000 to $2 million will reach $53 trillion, compared to $27 trillion in the United States, according to the report.

????That means a lot of people will be wanting to shop at Prada, Gucci and Tiffany & Co TIF 0.35% and buying expensive Estée Lauder EL 0.58% beauty products. And such companies are happy to oblige.

????Fashion company Michael Kors KORS -0.25% , which is just getting started with its China expansion, recently said sales there are “starting to take hold.” Kors’ archrival Coach COH 0.17% , which plans several new stores in China, saw its sales there rise 13% in its most recent quarter. Tiffany is full steam ahead with its China expansion despite disappointing numbers over the holidays at its Hong Kong stores, a favorite haunt of mainland customers.

????Other Western companies, including non-luxury brands, also have big plans for China. Gap Inc GPS -0.58% , whose brands include Old Navy, plans to open 40 new stores in China this year, while Ralph Lauren RL -0.10% sees China as one of its “greatest” markets on the back of double-digit sales growth last year.

????So it’s clear that any Chinese slowdown is seen by luxury and retail executives as a blip.

????“China’s prestige beauty growth remains at high single digits, and we see widespread opportunity to enter additional cities, doors and channels, and launch more brands,” Estée Lauder CEO Fabrizio Freda said last month.

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