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不是維密天使,照樣可以穿性感內(nèi)衣

不是維密天使,照樣可以穿性感內(nèi)衣

Jill Hamburg Coplan 2015-04-19
與維密等內(nèi)衣廣告常見(jiàn)的魔鬼身材截然相反,一則名叫“我不是天使”的廣告中超模身上都有不少贅肉。大碼女裝零售商Lane Bryant因這則最新廣告迅速成為美國(guó)社交媒體上的熱點(diǎn)。沒(méi)有維密天使那樣身材的姑娘們,這樣的內(nèi)衣你想來(lái)一套嗎?但這家公司,能否利用社交媒體的良好反響擴(kuò)大產(chǎn)品銷(xiāo)量,目前還有待觀察。

????在數(shù)碼時(shí)代,一個(gè)品牌要想獲得知名度,在社交媒體上攢人氣是個(gè)非常好的方法。從這個(gè)角度來(lái)看,大碼女裝零售商Lane Bryant公司正走在成功的路上。

????Lane Bryant公司主營(yíng)加大碼女裝,最近該公司發(fā)布的一則廣告成為美國(guó)社交網(wǎng)絡(luò)的熱門(mén)話題。在這則廣告中,一排“微胖界”女模特穿著清涼內(nèi)衣,熱辣出鏡,矛頭直指內(nèi)衣品牌“維多利亞的秘密”2014年的廣告“天使”。

????琳達(dá)?西斯里是Lane Bryant公司的CEO兼總裁,她之所以推出這則名為“我不是天使”的廣告,就是為了利用時(shí)下正在興起的“身材正能量”活動(dòng),以提振低迷的品牌形象。

????社交媒體分析公司Engagor創(chuàng)始人兼CEO福爾克?勒邁特雷表示,在短短一天內(nèi),“我不是天使”就在Facebook和Twitter上被提到了3萬(wàn)次,其中85%的評(píng)論都是正面的。該公司在Twitter上的粉絲一天就上漲了4%。80%的回應(yīng)者是25到44歲的女性,出現(xiàn)頻率最高的詞就是“重新定義了身材形象”和“祝賀女性”。

????廣告中出現(xiàn)的四名超模身穿Cacique系列內(nèi)衣,暗示性地低聲說(shuō)出“親愛(ài)的,你看見(jiàn)了嗎?”。這針對(duì)的是“維多利亞的秘密”的“完美身材”廣告,后者一經(jīng)推出就遭到不少網(wǎng)民炮轟,甚至有人請(qǐng)?jiān)敢髮⑵涑废隆6拔也皇翘焓埂敝械某內(nèi)巳搜g都綴著“游泳圈”,一名模特的腹部甚至還有卵巢癌手術(shù)留下的疤痕。

????CEO西斯里在一份媒體聲明中驕傲地宣稱(chēng):“我們的品牌已經(jīng)開(kāi)始轉(zhuǎn)變?nèi)藗儗?duì)美的傳統(tǒng)觀念?!?/p>

????Lane Bryant公司的總部位于俄亥俄州哥倫布市。自2013年就任CEO以來(lái),西斯里先后為公司帶來(lái)了幾個(gè)“子品牌”和運(yùn)動(dòng)女裝。(Lane Bryant公司是Ascena Retail集團(tuán)的子公司,在全美擁有767家商店和7900名員工。)幾十年來(lái),一直有許多人嘲笑該公司銷(xiāo)售的低檔老式胸罩。不過(guò)西斯里對(duì)行業(yè)雜志《Racked》表示:“現(xiàn)在我們已經(jīng)是一家全新的Lane Bryant公司了?!痹诖饲癓ane Bryant供職于“維多利亞的秘密”的母公司Limited集團(tuán)期間,她還推出過(guò)一個(gè)名叫Eloquii的平價(jià)女裝品牌,親民的價(jià)格與Zara有些類(lèi)似,只不過(guò)它也是專(zhuān)門(mén)針對(duì)微胖界的大碼產(chǎn)品。

????廣告公司YARD的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人露絲?伯恩斯坦認(rèn)為,抓住“身材正能量”運(yùn)動(dòng)的機(jī)會(huì)進(jìn)行宣傳,是Lane Bryant公司走出的一步好棋。畢竟如今大碼女裝的市場(chǎng)正在增長(zhǎng)。且不說(shuō)Forever21、H&M和Wet Seal等品牌都開(kāi)始做大碼女裝,就連Calvin Klein、拉夫勞倫、Tommy Hilfiger和Michael Kors也開(kāi)始進(jìn)入大碼女裝市場(chǎng)。其他一些知名品牌,比如Saks Fifth Avenue,則退出了大碼女裝領(lǐng)域,它的專(zhuān)業(yè)大碼女裝品牌Avenue也宣告破產(chǎn)。

????美國(guó)其實(shí)并不缺女胖紙:根據(jù)美國(guó)疾病控制與預(yù)防中心的數(shù)據(jù),64%的美國(guó)婦女都不同程度的體重超標(biāo)。零售分析公司NPD集團(tuán)的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,半數(shù)美國(guó)女性都穿14碼以上的衣服,她們的服裝購(gòu)買(mǎi)力占全體美國(guó)女性的三分之一,約為每年175億美元。在過(guò)去兩年里,瞄準(zhǔn)這個(gè)小眾市場(chǎng)的公司的銷(xiāo)售額增長(zhǎng)了31%。當(dāng)然這也離不開(kāi)一些做大碼女裝的網(wǎng)絡(luò)紅人推波助瀾,一些網(wǎng)絡(luò)紅人還有自己的大碼服裝品牌。

????Lane Bryant公司的CEO也注意到了這一點(diǎn),她對(duì)《Biz Journal》表示:“我喜歡看博客網(wǎng)站,她們每天都在教我應(yīng)該怎樣考慮這件事?!币悦绹?guó)的博客達(dá)人加比?格雷格為例(她自己就是個(gè)女胖紙),她推出的“肥基尼”(即肥版比基尼)曾在2013和2014年紅極一時(shí),上架不到一小時(shí)就被搶購(gòu)一空。

????“肥基尼”和“我不是天使”只是“身材正能量”運(yùn)動(dòng)的最近一次發(fā)力。女權(quán)主義者幾十年來(lái)的研究早已表明,媒體大力宣傳的那種超瘦的“麻桿型”身材是有害的。多芬公司2004年推出的“真正的美”廣告將身材正能量運(yùn)動(dòng)帶入了主流,這則廣告讓非專(zhuān)業(yè)模特穿著內(nèi)衣上鏡,最終在YouTube上收獲了6500萬(wàn)次的點(diǎn)擊量。

????不過(guò),擺在Lane Bryant公司前面的路也許依然不好走。研究顯示,大碼女裝并不會(huì)令女性感覺(jué)更好。有些微胖界人士也對(duì)Lane Bryant利與“維多利亞的秘密”勾心斗角表示遺憾。大碼女裝博主薩拉?康利就表示:“我不認(rèn)為作為胖女人,我們必須與主流的審美理念作斗爭(zhēng)?!?/p>

????Lane Bryant公司能否利用此次社交媒體上的良好反響擴(kuò)大銷(xiāo)量,目前還有待觀察。Engagor公司的勒邁特雷認(rèn)為:“消費(fèi)者的確被這則廣告吸引了,但結(jié)果還要看該公司能拿出什么產(chǎn)品。”(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:樸成奎

????審校:任文科

????In the digital age, one way for a brand to make itself relevant is to get social media traction. By that measure, plus-size retailer Lane Bryant Inc. is succeeding.

????Lane Bryant Inc., which sells women’s clothing size 14 to 28, became a hot topic in social media after the company released an ad campaign featuring vamping, slightly-large supermodels in slinky lingerie, a not-so-subtle jab at Victoria’s Secret 2014 ads where ultrathin “angels” wore wings.

????Hashtagged #ImNoAngel, the salvo from Lane Bryant’s CEO and President Linda Heasley aims to revitalize the flagging brand by cashing in on the growing “body-positive” movement.

????In one day, #ImNoAngel garnered 30,000 Facebook and Twitter mentions, 85% of them positive, according to Folke Lemaitre, CEO and founder of Engagor, an analytics firm monitoring social media. Twitter followers were growing 4 percent a day. Activity was 80% women 25 to 44. The terms used most often: “redefining body image,” and “celebrates women.”

????The ad’s four supermodels, wearing the Cacique lingerie line, suggestively whisper lines such as, “I mean honey, have you seen all this?” It aims at Victoria’s Secret’s “Perfect Body” campaign, which sparked petitions opposing the images. #ImNoAngel ads show some small rolls of flesh, and one model’s abdominal scar from ovarian cancer surgery.

????“Our brand has begun to change the conversation of traditional notions of beauty,” CEO Heasley crowed in a press statement.

????CEO of the Columbus, Ohio-based company since 2013, Heasley has brought a few designer “sub-brands” to Lane Bryant, and chic athletic wear. (Lane Bryant is a unit of Ascena Retail group, with 767 stores and 7,900 U.S. employees.) For decades, Lane Bryant was derided as a down-market mall staple selling outdated, stretchy, dowdy coverups. “It’s a new Lane Bryant,” Heasley told industry journal Racked. Previously at the Limited, she added Eloquii, a fast-fashion, runway-inspired line similar to Zara’s, in large sizes.

????Capitalizing on the the “body-positive”movement is a good move for Lane Bryant, contends Ruth Bernstein, co-founder of YARD advertising agency, whose clients include Henri Bendel and Banana Republic. The campaign, after all, arrives as the the plus-size market is growing. Trendy, new entrants include Forever21, H&M, and Wet Seal. Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Michael Kors license their names to plus-size lines. Yet other big names, including Saks Fifth Avenue, have exited; plus-sizebrand Avenue went bankrupt.

????The problem is not a lack of large women: 64% of U.S. women are overweight, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention says. Half of U.S. women wear size 14 or larger, and they hold about one-third of women’s overall apparel purchasing power—about $17.5 billion a year, says retail analysts NPD Group. Small niche companies addressing this market have seen sales rise 31% in the past two years, helped by a tidal wave of plus-fashion bloggers — some with branded clothing lines.

????Lane Bryant’s CEO has noticed. “I love going on bloggers’ sites,” Heasley told Biz Journal. “They teach me every day how we should be thinking about this.” And perhaps selling like this: curvy blogger Gabbi Gregg’s “fatkinis” – large two-piece suits — went viral in 2013 and 2014 and sold out in an hour.

????Fatkinis and #ImNoAngel are the latest wave in the body-positive movement, built on decades of feminist researchshowing the harmful effects of media images of rail-thin women. Dove’s landmark “Real Beauty” campaign, begun in 2004, took it mainstream, posing non-professionals in their underwear, eventually getting 65 million YouTube views.

????Still, Lane Bryant might have a tougher road. Studies show, for instance, that larger models don’t actually make womenfeel better. And some in the curvy community bemoaned the cat fight aspect of the campaign. “I don’t believe that as plus size women we must be pitted against mainstream ideals to be seen as beautiful,” plus-size fashion blogger Sarah Conley said.

????It remains to be seen whether Lane Bryant can parlay this social media buzz into sales. “Consumers are intrigued,” says Engagor’s Lemaitre. “But it will be up to the company to deliver.”

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