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如何讓寒冷的冬季夜跑變得更容易?耐克有辦法

如何讓寒冷的冬季夜跑變得更容易?耐克有辦法

John Kell 2015年10月28日
從北極光中找到了靈感,耐克在今年的假日系列中首次推出彩色反光設(shè)計(jì),新增紫色、藍(lán)色和橘色等色彩。這種設(shè)計(jì)將使冬季夜跑變得更容易,更安全。

????哈爾是一名理想的耐克員工:身體健壯,沉默寡言。

????耐克運(yùn)動(dòng)研究實(shí)驗(yàn)室的應(yīng)用服裝研究主任巴里·施皮林如此形容他的同事。實(shí)際上,“哈爾”是一個(gè)高科技的人體模型,專為耐克公司測(cè)試產(chǎn)品。最近,哈爾一直忙于評(píng)測(cè)服裝如何為運(yùn)動(dòng)員保暖,如何增強(qiáng)透汗性。

????耐克通過哈爾,以及諸如紐約巨人隊(duì)橄欖球運(yùn)動(dòng)員維克多·科魯茲這類體育明星,來研究如何實(shí)現(xiàn)服裝的最佳性能。另外一項(xiàng)重要工具是配有跑步機(jī)的環(huán)境模擬室——耐克可自由控制房間的溫度、濕度、風(fēng)速和熱度。

????然后,耐克會(huì)將它的設(shè)備帶到戶外,進(jìn)行一次試跑。為了研制今年上市的防寒裝備,耐克研究團(tuán)隊(duì)特意趕赴挪威、波蘭和丹麥,希望更好地了解如何根據(jù)不同寒冷環(huán)境設(shè)計(jì)服裝。

????公司希望憑借各種工具,在競(jìng)爭(zhēng)激烈的運(yùn)動(dòng)市場(chǎng)占據(jù)領(lǐng)先優(yōu)勢(shì)。目前,這個(gè)市場(chǎng)既有老牌競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手阿迪達(dá)斯,也有許多發(fā)展迅速的新對(duì)手,如Under Armour。

????施皮林表示,他們努力的成果便是消費(fèi)者今年秋天在商店看到的那些產(chǎn)品。其中包括AeroReact,這款產(chǎn)品據(jù)說可適應(yīng)跑步者體溫的變化。另外一款產(chǎn)品Therma-Sphere Max,采用凸起節(jié)點(diǎn)技術(shù),可吸收靠近身體的溫暖空氣,與防寒泳衣保持水分的原理類似。

????點(diǎn)亮黑夜

????在設(shè)計(jì)最新冬季產(chǎn)品時(shí),耐克從北極光中找到了靈感。

????這種自然光正是耐克節(jié)日系列的一個(gè)重要靈感源泉。今年的節(jié)日系列首次推出彩色反光元素。傳統(tǒng)的耐克反光裝備只有一種銀白色。今年的反光服裝和跑鞋則增加了紫色、藍(lán)色和橘色,以搭配耐克公司種類豐富的新品顏色。

????耐克資深跑步服裝設(shè)計(jì)師盧克·哈默說道:“跑步者都希望能夠引起司機(jī)的注意。我們經(jīng)常聽到人們說:‘我想去跑步,但首先要保證安全?!?/p>

????Hal is the ideal Nike employee: strong and silent.

????That’s how Barry Spiering, director of applied apparel research at Nike’s Sport Research Lab, describes his colleague. For the record, “Hal” is a tech-savvy mannequin that Nike NKE -1.42% uses to test products. Lately, Hal has been busy assessing how well apparel can keep an athlete warm and how well it allows sweat to evaporate.

????Nike uses Hal, as well as elite athletes like New York Giants football player Victor Cruz, to figure out how its clothes can best perform. Another key tool is environmental chambers, which are rooms with treadmills where Nike can control temperature, humidity, wind speed, and heat.

????Nike then takes its gear outside for a test run. For the cold-weather gear on sale this year, its research team went out for runs in Norway, Poland, and Denmark to get a good sense of how the apparel should be conceptualized for a variety of cold-weather environments.

????The company is hoping its arsenal of tools can give it the edge it needs to stand out in a crowded athletic field that has established competitors like Adidas and fast-growing rivals like Under Armour UA -1.91% .

????Spiering says his team’s hard work has resulted in product developments consumers are seeing in stores this fall. They include AeroReact, yarn that is engineered to adapt to changes in a runner’s temperature, and Therma-Sphere Max, raised-node technology that traps warm air close to the body in the same way a wetsuit holds water.

????Seeing the light

????When Nike set out to design its latest winter line, it found inspiration in the Aurora Borealis, also known as the Northern Lights.

????The natural light display was a key inspirational element behind Nike’s holiday collection, which features colored reflective properties for the first time. Traditionally, the reflective gear Nike sold was only a silvery white. This year, purple, blue, and orange appear in its reflective apparel and shoes, matching the color palate of Nike’s broader collection.

????“As a runner, you want to make sure you get the attention of the driver,” says Luke Hammer, Nike’s senior designer for running apparel. “We hear more and more, ‘I want to get out there and run, but feel safe.”

????高科技人體模型“哈爾”。

????哈默提到,耐克跑步者在夜間使用裝備的興趣日益增加。在冬天,日照時(shí)間縮短,反光元素變得非常關(guān)鍵。

????耐克至少從上世紀(jì)80年代開始,便一直在設(shè)計(jì)具有反光特性的服裝。此次的創(chuàng)意是在服裝中采用小反光玻璃珠。耐克也在努力確保這些珠子可耐機(jī)洗,并且不會(huì)過于生硬,影響總體性能。設(shè)計(jì)者在主要關(guān)節(jié)部分增加了反光元素——腳踝、膝蓋和手腕。

????哈默說道:“反光元素的位置必須確??吹剿鼈兊娜苏J(rèn)為:‘那是一個(gè)人,而不是一個(gè)標(biāo)志或一種動(dòng)物?!?/p>

????運(yùn)動(dòng)休閑風(fēng)潮

????耐克聲稱,性能是耐克設(shè)備的立身之本。耐克訓(xùn)練產(chǎn)品經(jīng)理泰倫·滕格森承諾:“每一處設(shè)計(jì)都有特定的功能?!彼硎?,每一種布料的選擇、拉鏈或連帽運(yùn)動(dòng)衫,都是為了幫助運(yùn)動(dòng)員取得更好的表現(xiàn),而顏色和印花則是為了跟隨時(shí)尚趨勢(shì)。

????但不可否認(rèn)的是,耐克公司也從運(yùn)動(dòng)休閑風(fēng)潮中獲得了好處——越來越多的消費(fèi)者不僅在運(yùn)動(dòng)時(shí)穿運(yùn)動(dòng)服裝,也會(huì)穿著它們?nèi)ベ徫铩⒊栽缥绮?、外出辦事或者去任何地方。

????Susquehanna金融集團(tuán)分析師克里斯托弗·西維亞表示:“是的,他們一直在為運(yùn)動(dòng)員設(shè)計(jì)高科技產(chǎn)品,幫助運(yùn)動(dòng)員提高表現(xiàn)。但耐克公司業(yè)務(wù)增長(zhǎng)的一個(gè)重要推動(dòng)力,則是為普通消費(fèi)者生產(chǎn)產(chǎn)品,不論他們是不是運(yùn)動(dòng)員?!?/p>

????需要注意的是,耐克公司在過去25年間積累的設(shè)計(jì)專利數(shù)量,在美國(guó)位居第三位。

????本月早些時(shí)候,耐克公司總裁兼CEO馬克·帕克在俄勒岡州比弗頓召開的投資者報(bào)告會(huì)上表示:“我們不斷受到運(yùn)動(dòng)員的激勵(lì)和啟發(fā),去創(chuàng)造更新、更好的產(chǎn)品?!痹谶@次報(bào)告會(huì)上,耐克公司宣稱,到2020財(cái)年,公司將實(shí)現(xiàn)年收入500億美元的目標(biāo),跑步類產(chǎn)品的營(yíng)收規(guī)模屆時(shí)將達(dá)到75億美元。而反光技術(shù)正是這類產(chǎn)品的最大創(chuàng)新。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:劉進(jìn)龍/汪皓

????審校:任文科

????Hammer points to the increasing interest by Nike’s runners to use the gear at night. Reflective properties are especially critical in the winter months, when daylight is in short supply.

????Nike has been in the business of making gear with reflective features since at least the early 1980s. The idea is to incorporate small glass beads that can reflect light into the clothes. Nike also aspires to ensure those beads are durable for machine washing but also aren’t too stiff to hinder performance. The reflective elements are purposely added to key joints—ankles, knees, and wrists.

????“It needs to be in places where the eye thinks ‘That’s a human’ and not a sign or another animal,” says Hammer.

????The athleisure movement

????Nike asserts its gear is rooted in performance. “Everything has a function,” promises Taryn Thogerson, product line manager for Nike Training. Each fabric choice, zipper, or hoodie is meant to help an athlete perform better, she says, while color and print selections are used to match fashion trends.

????But there is no denying that Nike is also capitalizing on the “athleisure” movement—a consumer trend to increasingly wear athletic gear not just for exercise, but also while headed to the grocery store, brunch, errands, or just about anywhere.

????“Yes, they make technical product for an athlete, to make an athlete better,” says Christopher Svezia, an analyst for Susquehanna Financial Group. “But the big driver to their business is really to make product for the average consumer whether they are an athlete or not.”

????Still, it should be noted that Nike has also built the third-largest design patent portfolio in the U.S. over the past 25 years.

????“We’re constantly being pushed or inspired by the athlete to create something new, something new and better,” Nike president and CEO Mark Parker said during an investor presentation earlier this month in Beaverton, Ore. It was there that Nike vowed to hit $50 billion in annual revenue by fiscal 2020. The company sees the running category—where its reflective technology is a key innovation component—becoming a $7.5 billion business by 2020.

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