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1份101年前的番茄湯食譜,幫助這個古老品牌重新定義自己

1份101年前的番茄湯食譜,幫助這個古老品牌重新定義自己

財富中文網(wǎng) 2016-12-23
通過發(fā)掘自身遺產(chǎn),有百年歷史的金寶湯公司發(fā)現(xiàn)了自己的新特質(zhì)

幾乎所有的美國人都存有一些古老的家庭食譜,可以做出深受喜愛的家常美食。在金寶湯公司(Campbell Soup),這些食譜的來歷或許能追溯到更早的一兩代人。

在金寶湯的同名番茄濃湯、金魚香脆餅、Prego意面醬的食譜檔案之間,還隱藏著一份約翰·多倫斯博士1915年獨創(chuàng)的牛排番茄湯食譜。在2016年,公司盡最大努力還原了這份擁有101年歷史的食譜的做法,生產(chǎn)了1萬罐這種湯。他們計劃于2017年在賓夕法尼亞州和新澤西州的Cracker Barrel連鎖店內(nèi)小批量地限時售賣它。

《財富》造訪了金寶湯公司位于新澤西州卡姆登的總部。提起這款番茄的烹制歷程——從尋找新澤西的當(dāng)?shù)赝炼梗窖芯渴匙V指代的“使用16號桶”的具體含義——公司員工充滿了自豪。金寶湯試驗工廠的運營主管皮特·伊姆霍夫表示:“我在金寶湯工作了32年,而研究這份食譜的那天,是我在金寶湯度過的最美好的一天。我感覺自己仿佛正跟著約翰·多倫斯博士的足跡前進?!?

其他許多高管和團隊成員對此表示同意:金寶湯不惜代價,重現(xiàn)這份封存數(shù)十年的食譜的做法,讓他們感到歡欣鼓舞?;貧w過去的處事方式,在某種程度上也折射出食品和飲料業(yè)面臨的挑戰(zhàn):如今的消費者想要享用更加干凈簡單、人工添加劑和色素更少的食物。每年銷售8,500萬罐西紅柿濃湯的金寶湯表示,公司也在朝這個方向努力。

金寶湯美國分部的總裁馬克·亞歷山大表示:“回顧公司的歷史和根源,我們發(fā)現(xiàn)了自身一些與消費者息息相關(guān)、而與其他食品公司不同的特質(zhì)?!?

一切始于多倫斯

1897年,約翰·多倫斯入職金寶湯公司。當(dāng)時他的叔叔亞瑟招他進來,是因為家里想讓他給侄子一些指導(dǎo)。小多倫斯接手的第一個項目是研究濃縮湯的做法,由于他有化學(xué)與數(shù)學(xué)的教育背景,很快就完成了這個任務(wù)。后來,他接任了叔叔亞瑟的崗位,擔(dān)任了公司的總裁。

Almost all Americans have a few old family recipes on file to make beloved, home-made meals. At Campbell Soup, these recipes can go back a little further than a generation or two.

Tucked away in the archives of the company behind the namesake tomato soup, Goldfish crackers and Prego was Dr. John Dorrance’s original beefsteak tomato soup recipe from 1915. And this year, it made 10,000 jars by following the 101-year-old soup recipe as closely as it could. Plans are in place to sell a small batch line of soups in 2017 for a limited time in Cracker Barrel CBRL 1.01% locations in Pennsylvania and New Jersey.

The journey to create this line of soup—from finding local, New Jersey tomatoes to learning what measurement the recipe actually meant when it said to ‘use a #16 bucket’—was talked about with great pride when Fortune visited Campbell Soup’s CPB 0.49% Camden, N.J. headquarters. “I’ve been with Campbell’s for 32 years and the day we were working on this, it was the best day for me with Campbell’s,” said Pete Imhoff, director of pilot plant operations at Campbell. “I felt like I was walking in Dr. Dorrance’s footsteps.”

Many other executives and team members agreed: the investment Campbell made in resurfacing this recipe—which hadn’t been used in many decades—felt inspiring. A return to the old way of doing things in some way mirrors the challenges we see in the food and beverage industry today, as consumers demand cleaner and leaner foods with fewer artificial ingredients and colors. Campbell—which sells 85 million cans of tomato soup each year in the U.S.—says it is on that journey too.

“As we looked back and did some navel-gazing back into our history and our roots, we found things about ourselves that are super relevant to consumers and are different than what other food companies can offer,” said Mark Alexander, president of Campbell’s Americas division.

It all starts with Dorrance

John Dorrance was first employed by Campbell Soup in 1897, hired by his uncle Arthur as a family favor to give his nephew some direction. The younger Dorrance’s first project was to try to figure out how to make a condensed soup, a recipe he quickly solved with his educational background in chemistry and mathematics. He went on to serve as company president—succeeding his uncle Arthur in that role.

??????????????????????????????????約翰·多倫斯博士在金寶湯工作時使用的實驗室。

??????????????????????????????????????????金寶湯公司的限量牛排番茄湯

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在他的影響下,金寶湯公司在已有的餅餡、番茄醬、芥末、沙拉醬等200余種不同產(chǎn)品之外,又推出了湯類。盡管現(xiàn)在的消費者一想到這家公司,腦海里最先浮現(xiàn)出的就是罐頭濃湯,但金寶湯以前并不賣湯。如今的金寶湯濃湯已經(jīng)成為了美國數(shù)百萬間食品儲藏室里的必備菜肴。不過與這種需要加水的濃縮湯不同,多倫斯的牛排番茄湯是即食的。

多倫斯這份1915年的食譜要求從當(dāng)?shù)夭少徳?,尤其是新澤西的番茄。而接下來的烹制過程,則體現(xiàn)了他在100年前捫心自問的食品的意義:“原料的品級是否達到了我們自己食用的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)?它們混合制造出的食物在色、香、味上能否有足夠的吸引力?產(chǎn)品的價格能否讓大部分人負擔(dān)得起?”

解密過去

盡管這份食譜可以追溯到一百多年前,但金寶湯檔案中能找到的最古老的烹制流程來自1925年。也就是說,他們必須根據(jù)當(dāng)時流行的烹飪方式來做出合理的推測。公司尋求了一些退休員工的幫助,其中一位在公司工作近50年的退休主廚成為了關(guān)鍵的信息來源。他和其他人一起,幫助現(xiàn)在的團隊搞清了原來烹飪指南中語焉不詳?shù)拿枋鏊鶎?yīng)的精確標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

在這期間,金寶湯利用了現(xiàn)代手段來模仿曾經(jīng)的蒸餾過程(公司過去使用的容器如今已經(jīng)不存在了),也掌握了當(dāng)時獨有的核心烹飪手段。多倫斯的番茄湯中不加水,湯里的所有液體都來源于牛排里的汁水和番茄漿液。

盡管牛排番茄湯的原料和烹飪過程都嚴(yán)格遵循了1915年版菜譜的要求,不過金寶湯的團隊還是做出了一個明顯而必要的調(diào)整,他們大量減少了食鹽的用量。公司研發(fā)團隊的成員湯姆·赫爾塞爾表示:“湯實在太咸了,我覺得他們可能喜歡很咸的湯。”

Under his influence, Campbell began to add soup to a food lineup that already featured 200 different products, including pie fillings, ketchup, mustard and salad dressings. But Campbell didn’t sell soup—the product the company is most closely associated with in consumers’ minds today. Condensed soups sold by Campbell are of course a staple in millions of pantries across the country. But unlike condensed soup—which require the addition of water—the beefsteak tomato recipe is ready to serve.

Dorrance’s 1915 recipe called for locally sourced ingredients, specifically New Jersey tomatoes. And the process he followed was in line with some broader questions he asked himself over 100 years ago about what food meant to him: “Are the ingredients of a grade we would serve at our own table? Does the combination of them appeal to our own sight, smell and taste? Is the price within the reach of most pocketbooks?”

Deciphering the past

Though the recipe is over 100 years ago, the oldest procedure the Campbell archivists could find was from 1925. That meant they had to make some educated guesses along the way, based on cooking methods that were popular at the time. Campbell also had to ask retirees for some help—one critical resource was a retired master chef that had worked at the company for nearly 50 years. He and others were able to help the current team figure out exact measurements that were described vaguely in the original cooking instructions.

Along the way, Campbell came up with modern methods to mimic the historical distillation process (the tanks the company used back then don’t exist today) and also learned key cooking methods that were unique to the time. No water was added to Dorrance’s tomato soup formula. The liquid that makes the soup is entirely from beefsteak juices and pulp.

Though the beefsteak tomato recipe and cooking process closely follows the 1915 vision, there was one notable change that was needed. Campbell’s team had to significantly cut the amount of salt added to the soup. “It was very salty. I think that is just what they liked,” said Tom Helsel, a member of the company’s R&D team.

金寶湯使用新澤西當(dāng)?shù)氐姆?,按照多倫?915年的菜譜烹制這款湯。

金寶湯還找了一些老朋友來供應(yīng)當(dāng)?shù)爻霎a(chǎn)的番茄。目前,公司的番茄都是從加利福尼亞州采購的,但多倫斯的食譜使用的是新澤西本地番茄,他們認真對待了這個要求。

伊姆霍夫表示:“我們希望通過這種做法表達對多倫斯博士的敬意,而且湯里最重要的原料就是番茄。我們感覺嚴(yán)格甄選食材是這次任務(wù)的重中之重?!?/p>

為了獲得生產(chǎn)1萬罐番茄湯所需的大約2萬磅番茄,金寶湯找到了位于新澤西州哈蒙頓的第三代農(nóng)場,這里種有三英畝番茄。碰巧,雙方曾經(jīng)做過生意。目前Wuillermin & Son Farms的農(nóng)場主埃德和奧古斯特,曾經(jīng)在年輕時幫過他們的祖父把番茄運到金寶湯位于卡姆登的生產(chǎn)基地。

為什么是現(xiàn)在?

金寶湯的總裁和首席執(zhí)行官丹尼斯·莫里森在今年早些時候的行業(yè)會議上表示:“食品行業(yè)正在遭遇真正的變革。近70%的成年人在購買食品時會把是否新鮮當(dāng)作重要的評判標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。

在卡姆登面見金寶湯美國分部的負責(zé)人亞歷山大時,他回應(yīng)了上述評論。他說:“大型快餐食品公司的影響力正在減弱。這也促使我們反思:我們的公司究竟是什么,希望以怎樣的姿態(tài)出現(xiàn)在世人面前。”

對幾乎不含人工添加劑,更新鮮的“干凈”食品的支持運動,解釋了為什么超市邊緣售賣的新鮮肉類、蔬菜和乳酪大受歡迎,而超市中央的加工型食品卻銷量慘淡。為了應(yīng)對這種趨勢,金寶湯這樣的知名品牌和大型快餐食品廠商紛紛開始改造產(chǎn)品,讓它們變得更簡單、更益于人體健康。

Campbell also had to call some old friends to source the tomatoes locally. These days, Campbell sources almost all its tomatoes from California. But Dorrance’s recipe called for Jersey tomatoes, so Campbell took that seriously.

“We wanted to honor Dr. Dorrance in what we were attempting to do and the most important ingredient in the soup is the tomato,” Imhoff said. “We felt the most important work we had ahead of us was to do the due diligence on the sourcing.”

To get the roughly 20,000 pounds of tomatoes needed to make about 10,000 jars of soup, Campbell turned to a third-generation farm in Hammonton, N.J., which grows about three acres of the produce. Coincidentally, the parties had done business before. As teenagers, Ed and August—the current owners of Wuillermin & Son Farms—drove their grandfather’s tomatoes to Camden for production at Campbell’s plant.

Why now?

“The food industry is in the midst of a true revolution,” said Campbell Soup President and CEO Denise Morrison at an industry conference earlier this year. “Nearly 70% of adults indicate that fresh is an important attribute when buying food.”

When I met with Campbell’s top Americas executive in Camden, he echoed those comments. “The relevance of Big Food companies is in decline,” Alexander said. “That was a big catalyst for us in rethinking who we are and how we want to show up in this world.”

The movement toward fresher foods with “clean” labels mostly devoid of artificial ingredients explains why items on the perimeter of supermarkets—where fresh meats, vegetables and cheese are found—have been selling strongly while the center of the store filled with more processed goods is facing some sales woes. Established brands and Big Food makers like Campbell are responding by reinventing their products to make simple and better-for-you foods.

??????????????????????????? 金寶湯為這款2016年復(fù)活的牛排番茄湯重新設(shè)計了老式標(biāo)簽

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這樣解釋了金寶湯公司為何要在今年年初創(chuàng)立Campbell Fresh、Garden Fresh Gourmet和美國冷藏湯類業(yè)務(wù)三個新分支。其中Campbell Fresh通過銷售博爾豪斯農(nóng)場(Bolthouse Farms)的新鮮產(chǎn)品,每年能夠獲得10億美元的收入。金寶湯在新鮮食品上押下重注,是因為正如莫里森所說,消費者現(xiàn)在想要更健康、人工添加劑更少、加工過程更簡單的純正食品。但什么才是“純正食品”呢?

顯然,對于不同的人來說,答案也不一樣。金寶湯美國分部的研發(fā)副總裁杰夫·喬治表示,這指的是沒有人工添加劑的食品。不過其他人則認為這代表當(dāng)?shù)厥称坊蛴袡C食品。他解釋道:“對于‘純正食品’,我們、消費者和金寶湯公司的觀點不盡相同?!?/p>

金寶湯承諾要變得更加純正。公司設(shè)立了一個所謂的“食品純正度指標(biāo)”,追蹤各種湯類、調(diào)味醬和飲料中有多少不含人工色素、香精和高果糖漿。如今,金寶湯公司給自己打出了80%的評分,亞歷山大許諾到年底把這一比例提高到85%。他表示:“我們不是完全純正,只有80%純正。但我們真正投入了金錢和舉措,努力讓我們的食品更加純正?!眴螁蚊绹植烤屯顿Y了5,000萬美元來減少人工色素的使用,不再在裝食品的罐頭中加入雙酚A(也就是BPA),同時還進行了其他一些改進。

原始版本的牛排番茄湯的推出,代表了金寶湯對過去的認可,也象征著他們對未來的期許。

喬治表示:“隨著越來越多的食品投入大批量生產(chǎn),人們已經(jīng)喪失了過去那種與食物的聯(lián)系。類似這樣的項目有助于人們重尋這種與食物、原料,以及食物烹制方式之間的聯(lián)系。”財富中文網(wǎng))

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作者:John Kell

譯者:嚴(yán)匡正

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It also explains why Campbell at the beginning of the year created three new divisions, including Campbell Fresh—a business that generates over $1 billion annually from the sale of Bolthouse Farms, Garden Fresh Gourmet and the company’s U.S. refrigerated soup business. Campbell is making a bigger bet on fresh because, as Morrison explains it, consumers are demanding healthier, real foods with fewer artificial ingredients and minimal processing. But what does “real food” even mean?

Different things to different people, apparently. Jeff George, vice president of research and development of Campbell’s Americas division, told me for some it means no artificial ingredients. Others say it means local or organic. “People have different opinions about what ‘real food’ means to us, consumers, and at Campbell,” he explains.

Campbell has promised to become more real. The company has a so-called “real food index,” which tracks artificial colors, flavorings and high fructose corn syrup found in the company’s various soups, sauces and drinks. Today, Campbell gives itself an 80% rating—and Alexander promises that by the end of the year, that figure will increase to 85%. “We’re not perfect. We are 80% real,” he said. “But we are putting real investment and real initiatives in to make our food more real.” That includes a plan to spend $50 million in his division alone to reduce artificial colors and take Bisphenol A (known as BPA) out of the canned goods, among other moves.

The launch of the original beefsteak tomato soup is a nod to Campbell’s past—but also the company’s future.

“As food has become more mass manufactured, people have lost that connection to food,” George said. “Projects like this help reconnect people to the food, the ingredients and how the food is prepared.”

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