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近藤麻理惠能讓快時(shí)尚行業(yè)發(fā)展減速嗎?

近藤麻理惠能讓快時(shí)尚行業(yè)發(fā)展減速嗎?

Rachel King 2019-01-23
近藤麻理惠和她最新的Netflix節(jié)目可能會(huì)產(chǎn)生經(jīng)濟(jì)效應(yīng)。

圖片來(lái)源:Photo-Illustration by Tres Commas; Original photos, Kondo: Gary Gershoff—WireImage/Getty Images; Background: Popperfoto/Getty

Netflix新推出的節(jié)目《近藤麻理惠教你做整理》(Tidying Up With Marie Kondo)首次播出就讓人“怦然心動(dòng)”,在社交媒體上掀起熱潮,可能還會(huì)影響市場(chǎng)銷售趨勢(shì)。

節(jié)目靈感源自近藤麻理惠發(fā)明的“KonMari”整理法,這種整理和收納生活空間的方法強(qiáng)調(diào)感性價(jià)值,節(jié)目播出反響良好,對(duì)觀眾的影響不僅包括鼓勵(lì)他們清理櫥柜,他們可能還會(huì)在立下新年愿望清單之余反思自己的消費(fèi)習(xí)慣。

近藤麻效應(yīng)將極簡(jiǎn)主義帶入消費(fèi)主義的最前沿,無(wú)論是購(gòu)買服裝、家居還是書籍和營(yíng)養(yǎng)品。谷歌趨勢(shì)(Google Trends)的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,上述節(jié)目播出時(shí),近藤麻、KonMari、甚至“疊襯衫”的搜索量都達(dá)到了突破值。假設(shè)節(jié)目熱度持續(xù)(再加上Netflix愛(ài)給節(jié)目制作續(xù)集),近藤麻理惠的影響力真的有可能讓消費(fèi)者減少購(gòu)買數(shù)量,提升購(gòu)買質(zhì)量。

雖然這或許能緩解消費(fèi)者精神和經(jīng)濟(jì)上的壓力,但零售商卻不會(huì)高興——特別是快時(shí)尚類零售商,如H&M、Zara、Forever 21等。

韋德布什證券(Wedbush Securities)的高級(jí)股票研究分析師簡(jiǎn)·雷丁表示,“現(xiàn)在正是轉(zhuǎn)型期,我們認(rèn)為從“快時(shí)尚”轉(zhuǎn)向“慢時(shí)尚”的勢(shì)頭絕不只是一時(shí)的風(fēng)潮?!?/p>

Netflix sparked joy…as well as social media buzz, memes, and possibly sales trends with its recent debut of Tidying Up With Marie Kondo.

Inspired by Kondo’s “KonMari” method for decluttering and organizing living spaces with an emphasis on sentimental value, the feel-good show is striking a connection with viewers, not only inspiring them to purge their closets, but perhaps rethink their spending habits beyond just New Year’s resolutions.

The Kondo Effect is bringing minimalism to the forefront of consumerism from clothing and home décor to books and nutrition. Searches related to Kondo, KonMari, and even “folding shirts” hit breakout levels in conjunction with the Netflix release, based on Google Trends data. Assuming the show’s continued popularity (and Netflix’s fondness for renewing many of its programs for subsequent seasons), there’s a real possibility that Kondo’s influence could push consumers toward fewer, higher-quality investment pieces.

While this might spark mental and financial relief for consumers, it’s not joyful for retailers—especially those in fast fashion, such as H&M, Zara, and Forever 21.

“We’re now in a time of transformation, and we see the trend towards ‘slow fashion’ away from ‘fast fashion’ as much more powerful than a fad,” says Jen Redding, a senior equity research analyst at Wedbush Securities.

Netflix節(jié)目《近藤麻理惠教你做整理》劇照。圖片來(lái)源:Denise Crew—Netflix

當(dāng)然,近藤麻理惠不是推動(dòng)變革的唯一因素?!翱鞎r(shí)尚的光環(huán)似乎已經(jīng)褪色,”雷丁說(shuō)?!耙?yàn)榍ъ淮惹皫状烁匾曮w驗(yàn)、環(huán)境和人權(quán)問(wèn)題,快時(shí)尚正在被取而代之?!崩锥〗忉屨f(shuō),過(guò)去十年,快時(shí)尚嚴(yán)重破壞了零售行業(yè),如今消費(fèi)者對(duì)一次性廉價(jià)服裝的興趣減弱了。

并不是說(shuō)時(shí)尚行業(yè)所有中端零售品牌都會(huì)在2019年遭遇下滑。雷丁以采用直銷模式的天才企業(yè)Everlane為例,說(shuō)明產(chǎn)品質(zhì)量更好的新興服飾零售商能適應(yīng)任何年景。盡管傳說(shuō)中的斷舍離有種種好處,卻并非所有人都認(rèn)為近藤麻效應(yīng)會(huì)對(duì)美國(guó)消費(fèi)者產(chǎn)生足夠廣泛的影響,能長(zhǎng)期讓零售業(yè)銷售發(fā)生重大變化?!霸诓贿h(yuǎn)的過(guò)去,這種程度的文化轉(zhuǎn)變通常是世界大戰(zhàn)等極端外部事件的結(jié)果?!比珖?guó)商業(yè)和零售房地產(chǎn)公司Transwestern的合伙人卡倫·芬尼根說(shuō)。

雖然近藤麻理惠本人可能建議人們把舊書整理出售或捐贈(zèng),但她的第一本書《怦然心動(dòng)的人生整理魔法》(The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up)重新出現(xiàn)在了銷售排行榜上,出版五年后再次登上《紐約時(shí)報(bào)》(New York Times)暢銷書榜單。五年來(lái),該書譯成了40多種語(yǔ)言,銷量超過(guò)700萬(wàn)冊(cè)。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

本文另一版本刊載于《財(cái)富》雜志2019年2月刊,題為《近藤麻經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)》。

譯者:Agatha

Kondo, of course, isn’t the only change agent here. “Fast fashion looks to have lost its luster,” Redding says. “It’s being displaced as Millennials place growing value on experiences, environmental, and human rights issues than in recent generations before it.” Fast fashion wreaked havoc in retail over the last decade, Redding explains, and consumers are now less interested in cheap, disposable clothing.

That’s not to say all mid-market fashion retailers can expect declines in 2019. Redding cited direct-to-consumer wunderkind Everlane as one example of newer retailers promising better-made apparel fit for any season. And for all the purported benefits of downsizing, not everyone sees the Kondo effect as having a sufficiently broad enough impact on the U.S. consumer base to materially affect retail sales over the long term. “In the recent past, a cultural shift of this magnitude was usually the result of an extreme external event, such as global war,” says Cullen Finnegan, an associate at Transwestern, a national commercial and retail real estate firm.

And while Kondo, herself, might suggest rounding up old books for resale or donation, her first title, The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up, is experiencing a resurgence on the sales charts, returning to the New York Times bestseller list after being published five years ago. It has since sold over seven million copies in more than 40 languages.

A version of this article appears in the February 2019 issue of Fortune with the headline “The KonMari Economy.”

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