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專欄 - 財(cái)富書簽

牛津終極啤酒指南

勞倫斯?A?阿莫爾 2011年11月01日

《財(cái)富》書簽(Weekly Read)專欄專門刊載《財(cái)富》雜志(Fortune)編輯團(tuán)隊(duì)的書評(píng),解讀商界及其他領(lǐng)域的新書。我們每周都會(huì)選登一篇新的評(píng)論。
在本期專欄中,勞倫斯?A?阿莫爾將為您解讀一本百科全書式的著作:《牛津啤酒指南》。

????

??? “毫不夸張地說(shuō),啤酒的歷史即人類文明史。一些人類學(xué)家認(rèn)為,人類之所以從狩獵社會(huì)轉(zhuǎn)入農(nóng)業(yè)社會(huì),主要是為了生產(chǎn)足夠多的糧食,以釀造大量啤酒?!?/p>

????《牛津啤酒指南》(The Oxford Companion to Beer)一書的主編加勒特?奧利弗如是說(shuō),但他隨即將收回了這個(gè)論斷。他說(shuō),這些說(shuō)法尚未得到證實(shí)。這有點(diǎn)吹毛求疵了。這種事情總是很難證明的,但我們有充分的根據(jù)相信,啤酒是諾亞帶上方舟的必需品之一。我們知道,埃及法老在其金字塔中囤積了成桶成桶的啤酒。我們同樣知道,在中世紀(jì),啤酒被用作法定貨幣,可以用它來(lái)支付稅款,清償債務(wù)。

????在我看來(lái),所有這一切完全講得通,盡管我必須承認(rèn)我從未碰到過(guò)一種我不喜歡的啤酒。盡管這跟我們今天要談?wù)摰倪@本書沒(méi)有關(guān)系。重要的是,所有涉及啤酒的迷人的事實(shí)都被傾注在了這本厚達(dá)920頁(yè)的著作之中。這本書體現(xiàn)了一切書籍之美,囊括了所有你想知道的啤酒故事,是關(guān)于啤酒的終極指南——比如,密爾沃基釀酒人隊(duì)( Milwaukee Brewers)和圣路易紅雀隊(duì)(St. Louis Cardinals)為何要在布許體育場(chǎng)(Busch Stadium)和米勒公園球場(chǎng)(Miller Park)這些名稱古怪的地方激烈廝殺,爭(zhēng)奪今年的全國(guó)聯(lián)賽錦標(biāo)。

????我想極其真誠(chéng)地說(shuō)一句,這本書簡(jiǎn)直太棒了。它的視覺(jué)效果相當(dāng)不錯(cuò),部分原因在于書中有16頁(yè)精美的彩色照片和數(shù)百?gòu)堁胖碌暮诎讏D像。它的分量完全合乎讀者對(duì)一本售價(jià)65美元的學(xué)術(shù)大部頭的期望。這本書涵蓋了與啤酒相關(guān)的所有基礎(chǔ)知識(shí)——從釀制啤酒所用的農(nóng)產(chǎn)品品種,到形形色色的啤酒釀制方法,每一種方法都帶來(lái)獨(dú)特的口味和質(zhì)地。

????書中詳盡闡述了自釀啤酒的流程,這也是應(yīng)該的。自釀啤酒的方式“可以像用罐煲湯那么簡(jiǎn)單,也可以像小規(guī)模的商業(yè)工藝釀造那么富有技術(shù)性”。如今,估計(jì)有75萬(wàn)美國(guó)人在自己家里釀制啤酒。作者也為那些打算上路的啤酒發(fā)燒友介紹了每年在世界各地舉辦的1,200多個(gè)啤酒節(jié)。本月的好去處是一年一度的慕尼黑啤酒節(jié)(Oktoberfest)和巴西啤酒節(jié)。在家門口,美國(guó)本土的20家啤酒廠也將于11月份帶著各自的特色產(chǎn)品,趕赴波特蘭市,參加在那里舉行的緬因州釀酒節(jié)(Maine Brewers Festival )。

????這本書由1,100多個(gè)獨(dú)立的條目構(gòu)成,按照從A到Z的方式呈現(xiàn)。其中有些內(nèi)容出人意表。我以前總是把修道院啤酒(abbey beers)跟比利時(shí)的特拉普派僧侶聯(lián)系在一起,難道你不是這么想的么?并沒(méi)有確鑿的證據(jù)顯示,修道院啤酒果真是在修道院中釀制的。書中還介紹了克勞斯?扎斯特洛夫的故事。這位柏林技術(shù)大學(xué)(the Technical University in Berlin)的農(nóng)業(yè)博士曾在安海斯布希公司(Anheuser-Busch)出任多個(gè)高級(jí)職務(wù),他最終成了百威啤酒學(xué)校(Budweiser Beer School)的講師和指導(dǎo)員,向公眾傳授啤酒業(yè)的基本知識(shí)。

????書中的內(nèi)容遠(yuǎn)不止于此。比如,斟啤酒要比斟葡萄酒棘手得多。書中寫道:“幾乎所有的啤酒都有一些碳化作用。不同于閃閃發(fā)光的葡萄酒,啤酒的頂部通常會(huì)出現(xiàn)一個(gè)泡沫層。把啤酒倒入酒杯,在完整保留碳化作用和恰當(dāng)泡沫量的同時(shí)還要獲得良好的視覺(jué)效果,這是一門需要經(jīng)過(guò)一番實(shí)踐才能練就的藝術(shù)?!?/p>

????如今,微型啤酒廠隨處涌現(xiàn),消費(fèi)者也終于開始認(rèn)真對(duì)待啤酒了?!杜=蚱【浦改稀芬粫谶@一背景下出爐,可謂生逢其時(shí)。這本書是來(lái)自20個(gè)國(guó)家的166名專家集體智慧的結(jié)晶。加勒特?奧利弗親自撰寫了許多章節(jié),并把其他專家的文字匯集成了一本有趣易用的啤酒指南。他十分了解這個(gè)行當(dāng)。他常年主持品酒會(huì),在世界各地發(fā)表演講,經(jīng)常在廣播和電視上充當(dāng)啤酒釀造業(yè)發(fā)言人的角色。奧利弗釀造的啤酒曾獲得過(guò)數(shù)個(gè)全國(guó)性和國(guó)際性獎(jiǎng)項(xiàng)。他如今在備受尊敬的布魯克林啤酒廠(Brooklyn Brewery)擔(dān)任釀酒師一職。布魯克林也是Piel's, Rheingold, Schaefer, Schlitz和Trommer's等眾多啤酒廠的發(fā)源地。一想起這些古老的啤酒廠釀制的啤酒,垂涎三尺的我就恨不得回到黑暗的中世紀(jì)。

????—?jiǎng)趥愃?A?阿莫爾是《時(shí)代》(Time)、《財(cái)富》、《貨幣》(Money)和《體育畫報(bào)》 (Sports Illustrated)等雜志個(gè)性化內(nèi)容的副主編。

????譯者:任文科

????"The history of beer, quite literally, is the history of human civilization. Some anthropologists believe that man moved away from a hunter-gather existence to a settled agriculture-based existence largely to grow enough grain to brew large amounts of beer."

????So says Garrett Oliver, editor-in-chief of The Oxford Companion to Beer, but then he takes it back. These statements, he says, have not been verified. Picky, picky. Things like this are always hard to prove, but we have it on good authority that beer was among the provisions Noah loaded onto the ark. We know that Egyptian pharaohs stocked their pyramids with barrels of beer. We also know that beer was used in the Middle Ages as legal tender for paying taxes and settling debts.

????All this makes perfect sense to me, although I must confess that I never met a beer I didn't like. But that's neither here nor there. The important thing is that all sorts of fascinating beer-related facts have been poured into this 920-page everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know beauty of a book that has the answer for everything—including why the Milwaukee Brewers and St. Louis Cardinals battled it out for this year's National League pennant in quaintly named places like Busch Stadium (BUD) and Miller Park.

????In all sincerity, the book is terrific. It looks good, thanks in part to 16 pages of beautiful color photographs and hundreds of tasteful black-and-white images. It's got the heft you'd expect from a $65 scholarly tome. And it covers all the bases—from the variety of agricultural commodities that go into beer to the vast number of ways it can be brewed, with each method imparting its own taste and texture.

????Homebrewing—a process that "can be as simple as making soup from a can or as technically involved as small-scale commercial craft brewing"—is covered in detail, as well it should. An estimated 750,000 Americans are brewing at home these days. For beer enthusiasts who want to hit the road, the book includes an overview of the more than 1,200 beer festivals held around the world each year. This month features the annual Oktoberfests in Munich and Brazil. Closer to home, 20 local breweries will be trotting out their wares at the Maine Brewers Festival in Portland in November.

????The book consists of more than 1,100 separate entries, presented in A to Z fashion. Some of them are surprising. I've always associated abbey beers with Trappist monks from Belgium, but wouldn't you know? There's no hard evidence abbey beers were actually brewed within the walls of a monastery. And what about Dr. Klaus Zastrow, who turned a Ph.D. in agricultural science from the Technical University in Berlin into several high-level posts at Anheuser-Busch? He ended his career as a lecturer and instructor in the Budweiser Beer School, where he helped teach members of the public the basics of the beer business.

????There's a lot to it. It's far trickier, for example, to serve beer than wine. "Almost all beer contains some carbonation," the book tells us, "and unlike sparkling wine it generally forms a crown of foam. Getting beer into its glass with its carbonation intact and the correct volume of foam while achieving a nice visual presentation is an art form that takes some practice."

????With microbreweries popping up right and left, and with consumers finally taking beer seriously, The Oxford Companion to Beer couldn't be timelier. It is the work of 166 experts from 20 countries. Garrett Oliver, who wrote many of the sections himself and assembled the rest into a guide that's fun and easy to handle, knows his business. He hosts tastings and gives talks around the world, appears regularly on radio and TV as a spokesman for the craft brewing industry. Beers created by Oliver have won national and international awards. He's currently brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, a respected brewery based in the borough that brought us Piel's, Rheingold, Schaefer, Schlitz, Trommer's and other ancient firms that produced the beers I cut my teeth on back in the Dark Ages.

????--Lawrence A. Armour is deputy editor of custom content for Time, Fortune, Money and Sports Illustrated.

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