就算你還沒去過圖倫，身邊同事（瑜伽教練或遛狗人）也可能去過。圖倫是位于尤卡特恩半島上的墨西哥海濱小鎮(zhèn)，有古老的瑪雅遺址，如今也因喧鬧的夜生活和健康生活方式聞名。如果下一次出游想有更放松的體驗(yàn)，不妨往東邊走走，去波多黎各的圣胡安。

圣胡安位于加勒比海地區(qū)，屬于美國(guó)領(lǐng)土，海灘上非常熱鬧，有不少出售手工珠寶和古典草帽的精品店，可以品嘗混合當(dāng)?shù)厮拖悴莸碾u尾酒，還能偶遇賣咸章魚餡餅的海濱小攤。圣胡安跟圖倫一樣文化充滿活力，也很悠閑，而且游客少得多。

這里簡(jiǎn)單介紹下在魅力之島上吃喝住，以及觀光的攻略。

If you haven’t yet been to Tulum, chances are your well-traveled coworker (or yoga instructor, or dog walker) has. The Mexican beach town on the Yucatán Peninsula is now known as much for its raucous nightlife and wellness community as it is for its ancient Mayan ruins. If you’d like your next getaway to be a little more stress-free, head east to San Juan, Puerto Rico.

The Caribbean island and U.S. territory has lively beaches, boutiques peddling handmade jewelry and vintage straw hats, cocktails mixed with locally grown fruit and herbs, and beachfront kiosks hawking salty octopus fritters. It has all of the vibrant culture and laid-back appeal of Tulum—but with far fewer crowds (and DJs). Plus, there’s no passport required.

Here is a primer on where to stay and what to eat, drink, and see on the Isle of Enchantment.

住處

康達(dá)多·范德比爾特最初由范德比爾特家族建造（跟紐約中央車站是同一家建筑設(shè)計(jì)公司），今年將迎來百年慶典。歷史悠久的海濱酒店保持著老派的精致和優(yōu)質(zhì)服務(wù)，又有現(xiàn)代化的便利設(shè)施，如游泳池和海灘管家，躺在海邊躺椅即可不間斷享用冰鎮(zhèn)果味雞尾酒，酒店里還有鑲嵌木板和大理石的水療中心、土耳其浴室，以及精選本地料理。（早餐可以品嘗冷榨果汁、自制三文魚配新鮮雞蛋，還有甜品師做的番石榴蛋糕。）

Where to Stay

Originally built by the Vanderbilt family (and designed by the same architectural firm responsible for New York’s Grand Central Terminal), the Condado Vanderbilt celebrates its centennial this year. The historic, oceanfront property maintains its air of old-school sophistication and service while also offering modern amenities like pool and beach butlers who can deliver a steady stream of fruity frozen cocktails to your deck chair, a wood-paneled and marble spa with a Turkish bath, and meals with a focus on local ingredients. (For breakfast, try a cold-pressed juice, farm-fresh eggs with house-cured salmon, and guava pastelillos made by the pastry chef.)

修道院酒店之前真的是修道院，曾屬卡邁爾教派，修建于1646年，坐落在圣胡安老城的鵝卵石街道上。如今酒店里有豪華套房、每日特供葡萄酒和奶酪，還有個(gè)室外游泳池。美麗的露天庭院中間有棵尼斯佩羅果樹，陽(yáng)臺(tái)兩旁綠樹成蔭，太陽(yáng)傘下的小桌特別適合早晨品嘗當(dāng)?shù)乜Х?，中午可以喝?dāng)?shù)鼗▓@里香草和水果調(diào)制的雞尾酒。

Tucked away on a cobblestone street in Old San Juan, El Convento is a former Carmelite convent that dates back to 1646, now with luxury suites, a daily wine and cheese reception, and an outdoor plunge pool. The charming, open-air courtyard—with a nispero fruit tree growing at its center, greenery spilling over the sides of balconies above, and umbrella-topped tables—is the perfect spot to sip local coffee in the morning and return midday for a cocktail, made with herbs and fruit grown in the on-property garden.

游玩

參觀位于圣胡安老城西北角的圣費(fèi)利佩·德爾·莫羅城堡時(shí)，可能會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)通向16世紀(jì)西班牙要塞的寬闊草坪上有很多家庭野餐放風(fēng)箏。登頂世界遺產(chǎn)遺址欣賞圣胡安灣全景之前，不妨駐足欣賞幾分鐘。

之后可以花整個(gè)下午在歷史悠久的街區(qū)小巷里漫步，欣賞西班牙殖民時(shí)期五顏六色的建筑，累了就在隨處可見的街車旁停下，品嘗新鮮的熱帶水果冰。如果住在康達(dá)多和佛得角，前往風(fēng)景美麗的海灘十分方便。不要錯(cuò)過島上東北部187號(hào)公路一段的路邊小攤Pi?ones，出售特色小吃bacalaítos和alcapurrias （bacalaítos是用鱈魚或芭蕉做的油炸餡餅，alcapurrias 則是碎牛肉做的油炸餡餅），而且可以邊吃邊欣賞壯觀的大海。

What to Do

When you visit Castillo San Felipe del Morro, located on the northwestern point of Old San Juan, chances are the sprawling lawn leading up to the 16th-century Spanish fortress will be peppered with families picnicking and flying kites. Take a few minutes to soak in the scene before climbing to the top of the Unesco World Heritage site for panoramic views of San Juan Bay.

Afterward, spend an afternoon wandering through the alleyways and streets of the historic district, taking in the colorful Spanish colonial architecture and stopping for a refreshing tropical fruit ice from one of the ubiquitous street carts. Beaches in Condado and Isla Verde are beautiful and convenient if you’re staying in the area. But don’t miss Pi?ones, located on a stretch of Route 187 on the northeast part of the island, for the roadside kiosks selling deep-fried bacalaítos and alcapurrias (fritters made with cod or plantains and ground beef, respectively)—all with the same sweeping ocean backdrop.

如果安排去圣胡安郊外一日游，可西行約40分鐘前往家庭農(nóng)場(chǎng)Frutos del Guacabo，品嘗羅望子和西紅柿，還能跟家養(yǎng)兔子和山羊玩耍，了解該農(nóng)場(chǎng)如何降低波多黎各對(duì)進(jìn)口食品的依賴。（聯(lián)系農(nóng)場(chǎng)安排參觀。）

在Santrece可參觀波多黎各藝術(shù)博物館，欣賞17世紀(jì)當(dāng)?shù)厮囆g(shù)家的作品，然后在博物館外的街道漫步，欣賞公共藝術(shù)。該街區(qū)以充滿活力且極具傳奇色彩的拼制圖案和壁畫聞名。

For a day outside San Juan, head about 40 minutes west to the family-run farm Frutos del Guacabo to taste tamarind and tomatoes, pet rabbits and goats, and learn about its mission to make Puerto Rico less dependent on imported foods. (Contact the farm to arrange a tour.)

In Santurce, visit the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico for a look at works by local artists dating back to the 17th century, then stroll the streets outside to see public art. The neighborhood is known for its vibrant, larger-than-life mosaics and murals.

品酒

雞尾酒“椰林飄香”正是在此發(fā)明，但除了這款堪稱熱帶地區(qū)代表的雞尾酒，波多黎各的雞尾酒文化其實(shí)深厚得多。可以前往曾多次被評(píng)為全世界最好的酒吧之一的La factoria，以調(diào)酒師技藝嫻熟和完美的雞尾酒著稱，想必不會(huì)令你失望。而且酒吧里氛圍相當(dāng)親切，服務(wù)風(fēng)格熱情又樸素，估計(jì)也會(huì)讓人開眼界。（酒吧沒有招牌，注意找圣塞巴斯蒂安街和圣何塞街拐角處那座樓。）

幾步之外，啤酒花酒館里有50種啤酒可隨時(shí)享用，其中一些來自當(dāng)?shù)蒯劸茝S，例如Zurc Br?uhaus和Ocean Lab（Ocean Lab位于佛得角附近的釀酒廠開放參觀）。在La Placita，叢林鳥酒吧里可以喝到口味精致的加勒比風(fēng)格雞尾酒，原料皆來自當(dāng)?shù)?，例如百香果、椰奶和木槿，可愛的玻璃杯上插著小小的太?yáng)傘。附近的El Bar Bero酒吧白天當(dāng)理發(fā)店，晚上無(wú)縫過渡為雞尾酒吧，頭發(fā)自然成了酒水的主題料，例如用柑橘伏特加、接骨木漿果和自制黑莓蜜餞調(diào)出的“黑魚”雞尾酒，口感也如秀發(fā)般順滑。

What to Drink

The pi?a colada was invented here, but with all due respect to the boozy tropical drink, Puerto Rico’s cocktail culture has far surpassed that claim to fame. That La Factoria—with its skilled bartenders and perfectly executed cocktails—has been named one of the world’s best bars more than once won’t surprise you in the least. That it maintains an intimate vibe and warm, unpretentious service just might. (The bar doesn’t have a sign, so look for the building on the corner of San Sebastián and San Jose streets.)

A few steps away, La Taberna Lúpulo offers 50 beers on tap, some from local breweries like Zurc Br?uhaus and Ocean Lab. (The latter is open for tours of its Isla Verde–neighborhood brewery.) In La Placita, Jungle Bird serves nuanced, Caribbean-inspired cocktails—made with local ingredients like passion fruit, coconut cream, and hibiscus—out of tiki glassware with tiny umbrellas. Nearby, El Bar Bero seamlessly transitions from barbershop by day to cocktail bar by night, and hair-themed drinks like the Mullet, made with citrus vodka, elderberry, and house-made blackberry preserves, prove just as smooth.

美食

雖然波多黎各85%以上的食物來自進(jìn)口，但島上1919家餐館約75%的食材均為本島出產(chǎn)。廚師胡安·何塞·奎瓦斯曾在紐約米其林餐廳藍(lán)山工作，后來回到家鄉(xiāng)，將專業(yè)廚藝和為當(dāng)?shù)剞r(nóng)民貢獻(xiàn)的熱情結(jié)合起來，開發(fā)了佛手瓜沙拉配山羊奶酪，以及香蒜芝麻醬開心果手工意大利面配腌甜椒等。

其他美食包括圣胡安老城的果醬、獲獎(jiǎng)無(wú)數(shù)的葡萄酒、黑松露油白豆湯和引來狂熱粉絲的培根粉，還有Santrece的Vianda，由夫妻二人弗朗西斯·古茲曼和阿米莉亞·迪爾經(jīng)營(yíng)。菜單不拘一格且隨季節(jié)變化，主要突出本地特色，致敬波多黎各傳統(tǒng)飲食，也融匯了全球風(fēng)味，菜單上有天婦羅炸南瓜、蛋黃醬南瓜，還有當(dāng)?shù)匾又瞥傻囊訙取?/p>

同樣在Santrece附近，Lote 23有16個(gè)食品攤聚集，有家攤叫“雞舍”，專賣酪乳泡菜炸雞三明治，還有家叫“帕萊特先生”的流行手工食品商店。（嘗嘗色彩鮮艷的特色果汁，如羅望子果汁，還有些奶油味重些，比如巧克力醬果汁。）可以跟薩布麗娜時(shí)髦的人們一起享受早午餐，既美味又上鏡，然后去Café con Cé咖啡館試試當(dāng)?shù)乜Х榷怪瞥傻目Х?。兩家店都在Loiza街上。附近的Kasalta面包店里還有馬洛卡火腿奶酪，用甜甜的面包卷夾著火腿和奶酪，再撒上厚厚一層糖粉，早晨或者中午可以買個(gè)嘗嘗，一定讓你難忘。（財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)）

譯者：馮豐

審校：夏林

What to Eat

While upwards of 85% of Puerto Rico’s food is imported, approximately 75% of the ingredients on the plates at 1919 Restaurant come from the island. Chef Juan José Cuevas returned to his homeland after working at restaurants like the Michelin-starred Blue Hill in New York City, bringing his expert technique and passion for working with local farmers to dishes like chayote salad with goat cheese, and handmade pasta with arugula-pistachio pesto and pickled ají dulce (sweet pepper).

Other fine-dining options include Marmalade, in Old San Juan, with its award-winning wine list and a white bean soup with black truffle oil and pancetta dust that has a cult following, and Vianda, in Santurce, run by husband-and-wife duo Francis Guzmán and Amelia Dill. The eclectic, seasonally changing menu highlights local produce and gives a nod to traditional Puerto Rican recipes, while also infusing global flavors into dishes like tempura-fried pumpkin and squash with pique aioli and Tom Kha cod with local coconut.

Also in the Santurce neighborhood, 16 food kiosks make up Lote 23, including Hen House with buttermilk- and pickle-brined fried chicken sandwiches, and an outpost of artisanal pop shop Se?or Paleta. (Try the bright fruit juice flavors like tamarind, or creamier options like Nutella.) Join the stylish crowd at Sabrina for brunch as flavorful as it is photogenic, and Café con Cé for coffee made with locally grown beans, both on Calle Loiza. The Mallorca Jamón y Queso—a sweet roll filled with ham and cheese and dusted with a thick layer of powdered sugar—at neighborhood diner-bakery Kasalta makes for a memorable breakfast or lunch.