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烹飪達人的隔離期:分享美食、分享快樂

Maria Aspan
2020-04-24

她是烹飪達人,也是暢銷書作家,對烹飪的熱愛讓她在疫情期間完全不會感到無聊。

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薩曼·諾斯拉特的職業(yè)是為他人烹飪美食,并憑借烹飪教學(xué)走紅?,F(xiàn)在,她正嘗試用更適合居家隔離的方式,繼續(xù)傳授烹飪知識,并讓自己保持淡定。

諾斯拉特還是一位暢銷書作家,也是奈飛紀(jì)錄片《鹽、脂肪、酸和熱量》的主持人。 “我真得快要精神錯亂了。我的身體完全沒有問題,我非常榮幸,這一點我也很清楚。但精神上,我?guī)缀跻罎⒘??!彼f。

在新冠疫情爆發(fā)之前,諾斯拉特在奧克蘭的家里已經(jīng)開始了某種形式的自我隔離,這位奈飛明星剛剛結(jié)束了緊張的一年,希望在家中找回狀態(tài)。如今各行各業(yè)都已經(jīng)停擺,所以她只好每天做做園藝,然后思考疫情對她的下一本書會有哪些影響。她還與《白宮群英周刊》播客的主持人之一赫里??耸病は柾餐浿屏艘粰n適合隔離期間收聽的最新限量版播客《在家做飯》。

與許多創(chuàng)意工作者一樣,諾斯拉特早已習(xí)慣了靈活的辦公時間,遠程辦公也是家常便飯。但當(dāng)這些都變成了強制規(guī)定時,諾斯拉特也體會到了與從前的不同。她表示:“我并不是說我擅長區(qū)分工作和不工作的狀態(tài)。但至少在疫情之前,我會在某個時間離開辦公室,或者有一些確定的時間段,我可以不工作。但現(xiàn)在,所有工作都要在自己家里完成,你沒有‘暫?!I?!?/p>

諾斯拉特接受了《財富》雜志最新專欄“新冠經(jīng)濟”的采訪,討論了疫情對她的播客計劃和財務(wù)狀況的影響,以及她是如何克服隔離的阻礙,繼續(xù)與其他人分享她對烹飪的熱愛的。

為清晰起見,以下問答內(nèi)容經(jīng)過精簡和編輯。

薩曼·諾斯拉特在奧克蘭。圖片來源:SMEETA MAHANTI

《財富》:疫情爆發(fā)之前,你在忙些什么?

諾斯拉特:我沒有在工作,因為過去兩年讓我疲憊不堪。我從去年年底開始休息,盡量砍掉了所有工作,只完成之前承諾的一些項目。我以前有太多時候都是被動響應(yīng),許多決定并不是出于本心。當(dāng)然結(jié)果還不錯。我也得到了出色的機會。但很多選擇都是基于“哦,聽起來不錯”或者“哦,我喜歡那個人”這樣的判斷,這讓我達到了精疲力竭的邊緣。畢竟,一個人的能力是有限的。

過去幾個月我一直在積極地恢復(fù)狀態(tài),所以我很奇怪地感受到自己與其他人的遭遇并不同步。當(dāng)疫情危機來臨的時候,我想自己可以站出來,為人們帶來快樂和安慰。所以我認為錄制播客是非常正確的決定。我和赫里??耸矠檫@檔節(jié)目聊了很久。

為什么這檔播客只有四集?

錄制播客的工作量是很大的,要花費很長時間。我們通常要花幾個小時錄音,然后把它剪輯成40分鐘。赫里??耸才c我們的剪輯師和混音師負責(zé)大部分工作,而我則負責(zé)全部的宣傳工作。而且這檔播客節(jié)目完全免費,這很好;我們沒有指望靠它賺錢,也很高興免費提供給聽眾,但這樣做很難持久。

新冠疫情和全球經(jīng)濟停擺對你的財務(wù)狀況還有哪些影響?

許多演講活動都延期了,不過大部分都把時間改到了年底。因為我真的很累,所以能不出差,反倒讓我稍微松了一口氣;我想當(dāng)機會重新來臨的時,我會做好準(zhǔn)備,精神飽滿地完成自己的工作。所以我很慶幸自己沒有受到影響。

但不久前我也意識到,我的職業(yè)生涯大部分時間,都是依靠集會和活動產(chǎn)業(yè)來支付我的衣食住行。我與受疫情影響的許多廚師和餐飲業(yè)的從業(yè)者并沒有太大的區(qū)別。

暢銷書作家、奈飛紀(jì)錄片《鹽、脂肪、酸和熱量》的主持人諾斯拉特說道:“我們沒有意識到,制約因素往往是一份禮物?!?圖片來源:SMEETA MAHANTI

這對你第二本書的寫作會有影響嗎?

我還沒有開始寫第二本書。不過書的內(nèi)容依舊會與烹飪有關(guān),會講述哪些制約因素將決定我們能烹制的美食。所以,無論這本書什么時候出版,我想肯定還是人們熟悉的那種語言風(fēng)格。

我以前計劃寫新聞稿和進行實地調(diào)查,但現(xiàn)在我關(guān)注的是人們?nèi)绾螒?yīng)對疫情。在正常生活中,對于烹飪最常見的制約因素是時間。我們每天四處奔波,要忙工作和照顧孩子,所以我們只是盡量做些食物擺上餐桌。但現(xiàn)在一切都顛倒了過來:許多人有大把時間,但食材、家里的烹飪用具或者廚房里的空間卻變成了制約因素。

現(xiàn)在我們所面臨的這些制約因素非常極端,尤其是對于最弱勢人群而言。但對于想要成為一名優(yōu)秀廚師的人來說,我認為這是一個絕佳的學(xué)習(xí)機會。有時候,有太多的可能性反而會讓事情變得更難,因為你甚至不知道該從哪里入手。事實上,我們在烹飪的時候,總是會遇到各種制約因素。只是我們沒有意識到,這些制約因素往往是一份禮物。

你在工作中經(jīng)常強調(diào)與別人分享美食的快樂。現(xiàn)在無法為其他人烹飪美食,你怎么辦?

我今天突然感受到自己是多么懷念餐廳。我想念賓客滿堂的場景,不過我真正念念不忘的其實是“第三空間”。我的第三空間是書店和餐廳;現(xiàn)在這些地方都去不了,這讓我很失落。

不過我住的地方里面有四戶人家。(東海岸的讀者可能認為是一個社區(qū),但實際上類似于共有公寓。)大家都很有社區(qū)意識,實際上我們在共同隔離。鄰居之間的年齡跨度從0到70歲,所有人都很謹慎,都會戴口罩。但我們在院子里擺了一張桌子。如果我做了烤寬面或其他食物,我會把它放到桌子上,然后告訴所有人。如果有人收到農(nóng)場寄來的食材,我們也會分享。雖然我獨自一人居住,但這一切讓我不會感到孤單,這種感覺很好。(財富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Biz

薩曼·諾斯拉特的職業(yè)是為他人烹飪美食,并憑借烹飪教學(xué)走紅?,F(xiàn)在,她正嘗試用更適合居家隔離的方式,繼續(xù)傳授烹飪知識,并讓自己保持淡定。

諾斯拉特還是一位暢銷書作家,也是奈飛紀(jì)錄片《鹽、脂肪、酸和熱量》的主持人。 “我真得快要精神錯亂了。我的身體完全沒有問題,我非常榮幸,這一點我也很清楚。但精神上,我?guī)缀跻罎⒘??!彼f。

在新冠疫情爆發(fā)之前,諾斯拉特在奧克蘭的家里已經(jīng)開始了某種形式的自我隔離,這位奈飛明星剛剛結(jié)束了緊張的一年,希望在家中找回狀態(tài)。如今各行各業(yè)都已經(jīng)停擺,所以她只好每天做做園藝,然后思考疫情對她的下一本書會有哪些影響。她還與《白宮群英周刊》播客的主持人之一赫里??耸病は柾餐浿屏艘粰n適合隔離期間收聽的最新限量版播客《在家做飯》。

與許多創(chuàng)意工作者一樣,諾斯拉特早已習(xí)慣了靈活的辦公時間,遠程辦公也是家常便飯。但當(dāng)這些都變成了強制規(guī)定時,諾斯拉特也體會到了與從前的不同。她表示:“我并不是說我擅長區(qū)分工作和不工作的狀態(tài)。但至少在疫情之前,我會在某個時間離開辦公室,或者有一些確定的時間段,我可以不工作。但現(xiàn)在,所有工作都要在自己家里完成,你沒有‘暫?!I?!?/p>

諾斯拉特接受了《財富》雜志最新專欄“新冠經(jīng)濟”的采訪,討論了疫情對她的播客計劃和財務(wù)狀況的影響,以及她是如何克服隔離的阻礙,繼續(xù)與其他人分享她對烹飪的熱愛的。

為清晰起見,以下問答內(nèi)容經(jīng)過精簡和編輯。

《財富》:疫情爆發(fā)之前,你在忙些什么?

諾斯拉特:我沒有在工作,因為過去兩年讓我疲憊不堪。我從去年年底開始休息,盡量砍掉了所有工作,只完成之前承諾的一些項目。我以前有太多時候都是被動響應(yīng),許多決定并不是出于本心。當(dāng)然結(jié)果還不錯。我也得到了出色的機會。但很多選擇都是基于“哦,聽起來不錯”或者“哦,我喜歡那個人”這樣的判斷,這讓我達到了精疲力竭的邊緣。畢竟,一個人的能力是有限的。

過去幾個月我一直在積極地恢復(fù)狀態(tài),所以我很奇怪地感受到自己與其他人的遭遇并不同步。當(dāng)疫情危機來臨的時候,我想自己可以站出來,為人們帶來快樂和安慰。所以我認為錄制播客是非常正確的決定。我和赫里??耸矠檫@檔節(jié)目聊了很久。

為什么這檔播客只有四集?

錄制播客的工作量是很大的,要花費很長時間。我們通常要花幾個小時錄音,然后把它剪輯成40分鐘。赫里希克什與我們的剪輯師和混音師負責(zé)大部分工作,而我則負責(zé)全部的宣傳工作。而且這檔播客節(jié)目完全免費,這很好;我們沒有指望靠它賺錢,也很高興免費提供給聽眾,但這樣做很難持久。

新冠疫情和全球經(jīng)濟停擺對你的財務(wù)狀況還有哪些影響?

許多演講活動都延期了,不過大部分都把時間改到了年底。因為我真的很累,所以能不出差,反倒讓我稍微松了一口氣;我想當(dāng)機會重新來臨的時,我會做好準(zhǔn)備,精神飽滿地完成自己的工作。所以我很慶幸自己沒有受到影響。

但不久前我也意識到,我的職業(yè)生涯大部分時間,都是依靠集會和活動產(chǎn)業(yè)來支付我的衣食住行。我與受疫情影響的許多廚師和餐飲業(yè)的從業(yè)者并沒有太大的區(qū)別。

這對你第二本書的寫作會有影響嗎?

我還沒有開始寫第二本書。不過書的內(nèi)容依舊會與烹飪有關(guān),會講述哪些制約因素將決定我們能烹制的美食。所以,無論這本書什么時候出版,我想肯定還是人們熟悉的那種語言風(fēng)格。

我以前計劃寫新聞稿和進行實地調(diào)查,但現(xiàn)在我關(guān)注的是人們?nèi)绾螒?yīng)對疫情。在正常生活中,對于烹飪最常見的制約因素是時間。我們每天四處奔波,要忙工作和照顧孩子,所以我們只是盡量做些食物擺上餐桌。但現(xiàn)在一切都顛倒了過來:許多人有大把時間,但食材、家里的烹飪用具或者廚房里的空間卻變成了制約因素。

現(xiàn)在我們所面臨的這些制約因素非常極端,尤其是對于最弱勢人群而言。但對于想要成為一名優(yōu)秀廚師的人來說,我認為這是一個絕佳的學(xué)習(xí)機會。有時候,有太多的可能性反而會讓事情變得更難,因為你甚至不知道該從哪里入手。事實上,我們在烹飪的時候,總是會遇到各種制約因素。只是我們沒有意識到,這些制約因素往往是一份禮物。

你在工作中經(jīng)常強調(diào)與別人分享美食的快樂。現(xiàn)在無法為其他人烹飪美食,你怎么辦?

我今天突然感受到自己是多么懷念餐廳。我想念賓客滿堂的場景,不過我真正念念不忘的其實是“第三空間”。我的第三空間是書店和餐廳;現(xiàn)在這些地方都去不了,這讓我很失落。

不過我住的地方里面有四戶人家。(東海岸的讀者可能認為是一個社區(qū),但實際上類似于共有公寓。)大家都很有社區(qū)意識,實際上我們在共同隔離。鄰居之間的年齡跨度從0到70歲,所有人都很謹慎,都會戴口罩。但我們在院子里擺了一張桌子。如果我做了烤寬面或其他食物,我會把它放到桌子上,然后告訴所有人。如果有人收到農(nóng)場寄來的食材,我們也會分享。雖然我獨自一人居住,但這一切讓我不會感到孤單,這種感覺很好。(財富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Biz

Samin Nosrat made a career out of cooking for other people, and became famous teaching them how to do it themselves. Now she’s trying to carry on—and stay sane—in a more quarantine-friendly format.

“I definitely am beginning to lose my mind,” says the bestselling author and Netflix star of Salt Fat Acid Heat. “I’m totally fine. I have great privilege; I’m completely aware of that. And I’m a human who’s losing my mind here.”

Before the coronavirus, Nosrat was already in a sort of self-imposed quarantine at her Oakland home, recovering from a whirlwind year of Netflix-conferred celebrity. Now that everything else has shut down, she’s spending her days gardening and thinking about how the pandemic will influence her next book. She’s also recording and producing a new, limited, quarantine-appropriate Home Cooking podcast, with West Wing Weekly cohost Hrishikesh Hirway.

Like many creative professionals used to working flexibly and often remotely, Nosrat is noticing a difference, now that those conditions are mandatory. “It’s not like I’m the best to begin with at separating work and not-work. But at least in my pre-coronavirus life, I either left my office at some point or there were clearly delineated times that I could not be working,” she says. “Now, when you’re doing all of this stuff on your own from home, there is no ‘off’ button.”

Nosrat spoke with Fortune for a new series, The Coronavirus Economy, to discuss how the pandemic has affected her podcasting plans and her finances, and how she’s overcoming isolation to continue sharing her love of cooking with others.

The following Q&A has been condensed and lightly edited for clarity.

Fortune: What were you working on before this all happened?

Nosrat: I wasn’t really working, because I was so burnt out from the last two years. Starting at the end of last year, I took a break and tried to cut away everything that was not a commitment. I had been doing a lot of responding in the moment, and my most grounded self was not making the decisions. It was not bad. There were amazing opportunities coming my way! But I was making choices based on, “Ooh, that sounds good,” or “Ooh, I like that person,” and that just led me to the brink of exhaustion. One person can only do so much.

In a weird way I feel out of sync with what others are going through, because I have been very actively restoring myself in the last few months. So when this crisis came about, I felt available to show up for people and be a source of joy and comfort. And that was why it felt totally right to do the podcast, which is something that Hrishi and I have been talking about for a long time.

Why are you only doing four episodes of the podcast?

It is an incredible amount of work. It takes a lot of time—we record hours and hours, and then edit that down into 40 minutes. Hrishi and our editor and mixer do so much of the work, and almost all the publicity has fallen to me. And we’re not making any money off of it, which is fine; we didn’t expect to, and we are happy not to, but it’s not the most sustainable thing.

So how else are this pandemic and global shutdown affecting your finances?

I had many speaking events postponed, but a bunch of them just got rescheduled for the end of this year. Because I’m so tired, I was a little bit relieved to not have to travel; I think I’ll be ready and excited to do it when the opportunity comes back. So I’m in the really lucky position to not be affected.

But I also feel incredibly aware that not so very long ago, and for the bulk of my professional career, I relied on gathering with people and essentially the event industry to pay my rent and eat. And I’m not so far away from the many, many, many cooks and food workers who are affected by this.

Does this affect your work on your second book at all?

Well, I haven’t really been working on my book. But it’s all about cooking, and the constraints that determine what we should be cooking. And so I feel like the language of that will be a lot more familiar to people, whenever the book finally does come out!

What I was planning to do was reporting and in-person research, and now I’m getting to pay attention to how people are coping. In our normal lives, the most typical constraint on our cooking is time. We’re rushing around, we have jobs and children, and we’re just trying to get something on the table. Right now, that’s turned upside down: a lot of people do have the time, and the constraints are mostly ingredients, or what tools you have at home, or what kind of space you have in your kitchen.

The particular set of constraints that we’re facing right now are very extreme, especially for some of our most vulnerable populations. But I also think it’s an amazing learning opportunity for people who want to become better cooks. Sometimes having anything be possible makes it harder, because you don’t even know where to start. The truth is, we’re always cooking with some constraints. We just don’t realize that often constraints are a gift.

Your work often highlights your joy in sharing food with other people. How are you dealing with not being able to cook for others?

Today it really hit me how much I miss restaurants. I definitely miss having people over, but what I really miss is that idea of the third place. For me, bookstores and restaurants are that third place; I can't go to either of them now, and that’s a big loss.

But I live in one of four houses on the same piece of property. (East Coasters would probably think of it as a commune. It’s not a commune, it’s more like condos.) We all have a shared sense of community, and we are in effect co-quarantining. We span ages zero to 74, and we’re all being very cautious and wearing masks. But we have a table in the courtyard where if I make a lasagna or something, I just put it out there, and let everyone know. Or if people get a farm-box delivery, we share stuff. There is this way where I’m alone, but not that alone, which feels really good. It’s a saving grace.

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