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博柏利女掌門詳解英倫百年品牌的回春秘方

博柏利女掌門詳解英倫百年品牌的回春秘方

Nina Easton 2012年06月21日
2006年接手博柏利掌門人一職后,首席執(zhí)行官安吉拉?阿倫讓這一深陷泥潭、苦苦掙扎的英國時(shí)尚品牌重獲新生。《財(cái)富》雜志在倫敦舉行的“最具影響力女性”峰會(huì)上,她與大家分享了她成功的秘訣,那就是緊盯千禧一代這個(gè)年輕的消費(fèi)群體,采取數(shù)字手段為這個(gè)百年老字號(hào)注入青春的血液。
安吉拉?阿倫茨在《財(cái)富》雜志于倫敦舉辦的“最具影響力女性峰會(huì)”上。
照片供稿:安東尼?厄普頓

????2006年,安吉拉?阿倫茨接手博柏利公司(Burberry)時(shí),深感時(shí)不我待。當(dāng)時(shí),這家擁有150年歷史的著名品牌大勢(shì)已去、增長(zhǎng)乏力。它所在行業(yè)當(dāng)時(shí)的增速達(dá)到了13%,它的增長(zhǎng)率卻卡在區(qū)區(qū)2%上就止步不前。它的昔日輝煌似乎已成明日黃花;安吉拉必須全力以赴,迎頭趕上。她說:“我甚至沒時(shí)間去考慮”進(jìn)行重大變革“會(huì)帶來的負(fù)面影響”。

????通過聚焦更年輕的目標(biāo)市場(chǎng),采用數(shù)字媒體和社交媒體,這家奢侈品牌正在奪回失地。阿倫茨今年46歲,當(dāng)她接任公司首席執(zhí)行官后,公司股票已經(jīng)上漲了200%。在博柏利總部所在地——倫敦,《財(cái)富》雜志(Fortune )舉辦了“最具影響力女性” (Most Powerful Women)峰會(huì)。活動(dòng)開幕式上,《財(cái)富》雜志執(zhí)行主編斯蒂芬妮?麥塔對(duì)阿倫茨做了深度專訪。阿倫茨為在場(chǎng)嘉賓詳細(xì)剖析了她的戰(zhàn)略——并分享了自己的成功秘訣。

????單打獨(dú)斗成不了氣候。“我要通過團(tuán)隊(duì)來工作。這是我所知的唯一可行的工作方式。”她擔(dān)任首席執(zhí)行官后,第一個(gè)動(dòng)作就是將分布在全球各地的數(shù)百名高級(jí)經(jīng)理召集起來,舉行為期一周的頭腦風(fēng)暴會(huì)議,討論如何讓這個(gè)已經(jīng)喪失競(jìng)爭(zhēng)優(yōu)勢(shì)的品牌重獲新生。2008年金融危機(jī)來襲時(shí),面對(duì)即將到來的困境,公司不得不蟄伏下來,而她再次向團(tuán)隊(duì)靠攏,大家齊心協(xié)力,共度難關(guān)。

????快速前進(jìn)。但是,也必須回顧自身,找到長(zhǎng)期積淀下來的優(yōu)勢(shì)。2006年,阿倫茨和她的團(tuán)隊(duì)在分析競(jìng)爭(zhēng)形勢(shì)后得到的第一個(gè)共識(shí)是:“我們是英國品牌。其他品牌沒有這一血統(tǒng)。我們?cè)撛趺蠢眠@一傳統(tǒng)呢?”

????開拓“千禧年”(數(shù)字化的代稱——譯注)市場(chǎng)。有一個(gè)數(shù)字始終盤踞在阿倫茨的腦海里:全球人口中有60%的人年齡在30歲以下。她請(qǐng)來的研究顧問所做的調(diào)研表明,在全球新興市場(chǎng)中,這個(gè)人群也是高凈值客戶集中的群體。因此,阿倫茨及其團(tuán)隊(duì)很快做出了決策,博柏利的未來取決于對(duì)“千禧年”市場(chǎng)的開發(fā)。

????抓住“數(shù)字化一代”。要和數(shù)字化受眾溝通就必須有一支與他們擁有共同語言的員工隊(duì)伍,通過數(shù)字媒體和社交媒體與他們交流。她對(duì)年輕用戶的看法是:“這類媒體就是他們的母語。”現(xiàn)在,博柏利公司70% 的員工年齡在30歲以下,僅僅在她倫敦的辦公室里就有來自40個(gè)不同國家的員工。

????在公司內(nèi)部創(chuàng)造統(tǒng)一的品牌愿景。阿倫茨進(jìn)入董事會(huì)時(shí),博柏利正與全球各大廣告公司開展合作。而阿倫茨將廣告創(chuàng)意活動(dòng)導(dǎo)入公司內(nèi)部,由創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)克里斯多夫?貝利主導(dǎo)。貝利跟隨她有十年之久,是她“通往年輕一代的橋梁”。這一舉措讓博柏利獲得了“完全的掌控和一致的愿景”。

????When Angela Ahrendts took over Burberry (BBRYF) in 2006, she had no time to waste. The 150-year-old label had lost its cache. In a sector growing 13%, its growth clocked in at 2%. Its best days seemed behind; Ahrendts needed to lean forward. "There was not time to even think about the downsides" of making big changes, she says.

????By targeting a more youthful market and embracing digital and social media, the luxury brand is back in the game. Since Ahrendts, now 46, took over as CEO, the company's stock has risen 200%. In a wide-ranging interview with Fortune executive editor Stephanie Mehta at the inaugural Fortune Most Powerful Women event in London, where Burberry is based, Ahrendts took her audience inside her strategy—and shared her secrets for success.

????It's not about you. "I work through teams. It's the only way I know how to work." Her first move as CEO was to pull together more than a hundred senior managers from all over the world for a week of brain-storming on how to re-launch a brand that had lost its edge. She would again reach out to her team when the 2008 financial crisis hit and the company had to hunker down for the coming rough seas.

????Move forward fast. But also look backward to identify enduring strengths. The first conclusion Ahrendts and her team made in 2006, after they examined the competition: "We're British. They're not. How do we exploit that heritage?"

????Go millennial. One figure stuck in Ahrendts head: 60% of the world's population is under 30. She brought in research consultants who produced numbers showing that in growing global markets, this is also where the high net worth customers are. Ahrendts and her team quickly determined that Burberry's future hinged on targeting the millennial market.

????Nab those "digital natives." To communicate with a millennial audience, you need an employee base that speaks their language—through digital and social media. "That's their mother tongue," she says of young people. Today, 70% of Burberry employees are under 30, and 40 nationalities are represented in her London office alone.

????Create a unified branding vision—in house. When Arhrendts came on board, Burberry was working with advertising agencies all over the world. Ahrendts brought that effort inside, under the direction of creative brain Christopher Bailey, ten years her junior and her "bridge to a younger generation." The move gave Burberry "total control and singular vision."

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