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蔻馳CEO:中國(guó)的部分門店要向更好的地段轉(zhuǎn)移

蔻馳CEO:中國(guó)的部分門店要向更好的地段轉(zhuǎn)移

Phil Wahba 2014年06月25日
蔻馳CEO維克多?路易斯接受《財(cái)富》雜志專訪時(shí)說(shuō),為了維持蔻馳在中國(guó)市場(chǎng)的積極態(tài)勢(shì),必須關(guān)停一些客流量不理想的門店,把它們轉(zhuǎn)移到更好的地段。

????蔻馳(Coach )上周四透露戰(zhàn)略規(guī)劃,以期從邁克爾高司(Michael Kors)和Kate Spade等競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手手中奪回曾屬于自己的北美市場(chǎng)份額,同時(shí)推動(dòng)海外業(yè)務(wù)加速增長(zhǎng)。

????這家總部設(shè)在紐約的手袋及皮革制品公司向華爾街分析師透露,它計(jì)劃于未來(lái)數(shù)月內(nèi)關(guān)閉北美20%的全業(yè)務(wù)門店。這家公司第一季度北美同店銷售額下滑了21%。蔻馳還將關(guān)停北美地區(qū)的部分工廠店。與此同時(shí),蔻馳將努力在北美地區(qū)打造更出色的百貨店中店及更注重客戶體驗(yàn)的旗艦店來(lái)彌補(bǔ)關(guān)店的損失。這家公司在北美12個(gè)主要市場(chǎng)的業(yè)務(wù)占它銷售總額的一半。

????蔻馳將從9月份開(kāi)始銷售創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)斯圖亞特?維佛斯設(shè)計(jì)的第一個(gè)產(chǎn)品系列。維佛斯的產(chǎn)品設(shè)計(jì)理念依托于蔻馳73年歷史的傳承和紐約根源。這個(gè)系列的產(chǎn)品系意味著對(duì)蔻馳經(jīng)典的回歸,標(biāo)志著這家公司在努力重新贏得一些昔日擁躉的青睞。在這些粉絲的印象中,蔻馳品牌近幾年變得太花哨了。

????即使在中國(guó)市場(chǎng)(也是它近期的銷售增長(zhǎng)引擎),蔻馳也在調(diào)整做法:關(guān)閉客流量不理想的門店,另?yè)裥轮烽_(kāi)設(shè)新店。

????投資者對(duì)蔻馳憂心忡忡。這家公司表示恢復(fù)增長(zhǎng)可能需要一段時(shí)間的消息傳出后,公司股價(jià)應(yīng)聲下挫了9%。

????蔻馳CEO維克多?路易斯近日在公司曼哈頓總部接受了《財(cái)富》雜志的專訪,闡述了他扭轉(zhuǎn)業(yè)務(wù)頹勢(shì)的策略。路易斯今年1月份走馬上任,出任蔻馳CEO。此前幾年,他一直在這家奢侈品公司國(guó)際業(yè)務(wù)部門擔(dān)任高管。

????《財(cái)富》:在許多規(guī)模較小的市場(chǎng)關(guān)閉門店,你們會(huì)不會(huì)因此把當(dāng)?shù)氐臋C(jī)會(huì)拱手讓給邁克爾高司這類正在擴(kuò)大門店網(wǎng)絡(luò)規(guī)模的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手?

????我們大部分的動(dòng)作并不是徹底放棄某一個(gè)市場(chǎng)。在他們所在的市場(chǎng)中,我們的店面數(shù)量都不止一處。在所有我們計(jì)劃關(guān)閉門店的購(gòu)物中心,我們無(wú)一例外都有一個(gè)批發(fā)店面,要么設(shè)在梅西百貨(Macy’s),要么是在布魯明戴爾百貨

????你們?yōu)槭裁磳W⒂诒泵?2個(gè)主要市場(chǎng),而不尋求更廣闊的市場(chǎng)空間?

????我們?cè)谶@些市場(chǎng)的業(yè)務(wù)占到公司總銷售額的一半以上,當(dāng)然它們是最重要的旅游目的地。它們是面向全球的PR(公共關(guān)系)和營(yíng)銷擴(kuò)音器,因?yàn)樵谀抢镔?gòu)物的消費(fèi)者往往是引領(lǐng)潮流的人。

????Coach laid out on Thursday the strategy it hopes will help it win back the market share it has lost in North America to the likes of Michael Kors KORS -0.85% and kate spade KATE 2.59% , and accelerate its growth overseas.

????The New York handbag and leather-goods companytold Wall Street analysts that it planned to close 20% of its full-service stores in North America, where comparable sales fell 21% last quarter, in the coming months. The brand will consolidate some of its factory stores in the region as well. It will try to make up for that with better spots in department stores and high-touch flagship stores in the 12 major North American markets where it gets half of its sales.

????In September, it will start selling the first collection designed by creative director Stuart Vevers, who has focused on the 73-year-old company’s heritage and New York roots. The new collection is a nod to Coach classics—and an effort to start to win back shoppers who thought the brand had grown too showy in recent years.

????Even in China, the motor of its sales growth of late, Coach is tweaking its approach, closing stores in locations that have become less attractive and opening new stores in better spots.

????Investors proved nervous and sent shares down 9% after the company said returning to growth could take a while.

????Coach CEO Victor Luis, who took the reins in January after helping build the luxury company’s international business in recent years, sat down with Fortune at Coach’s Manhattan headquarters for an exclusive interview to discuss his strategy.

????Fortune: In closing stores in many smaller markets, do you not risk ceding the opportunity in such locations to rivals like Michael Kors, which is expanding?

????Most of the moves are not about giving up on total markets. They are in markets where we have more than one location. In all of the malls where we are closing stores, we have a wholesale location, either at a Macy’s M 0.12% , a Bloomingdale’s, or another partner.

????Why the focus on the 12 major North America markets, rather than a broader footprint?

????They represent over half of our sales, and certainly they represent the most important tourist destinations. They are the PR (public relations) and marketing megaphones to the world because a lot of the consumers who shop there tend to be the trendsetters as well.

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