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二手貨交易興隆,這家公司趁機(jī)重塑

盡管搭上了二手零售增長(zhǎng)的東風(fēng),Goodwill也面臨更多來(lái)自在線二手商店的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)。

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上周,在布魯克林中心區(qū)的Goodwill慈善商店里——就在紐約市恢復(fù)到店購(gòu)物的第二天——顧客源源不斷地走進(jìn)店里,在保持社交距離的同時(shí),從貨架上拿起裙子襯衫,精心挑選餐具套裝,投身于他們已經(jīng)期待了好幾個(gè)星期的淘寶式購(gòu)物中。

地板上貼著新標(biāo)識(shí),提醒消費(fèi)者保持6英尺的距離,商店的其他地方則透露出Goodwill慈善商店正在進(jìn)行大改造:貨架換成了現(xiàn)代風(fēng)格,背后的墻壁色彩斑斕,地板干凈得閃閃發(fā)光,櫥窗里的人體模特都穿上了時(shí)髦的服飾,客戶還可以選擇蘋果支付來(lái)付款。

Goodwill NYNJ首席執(zhí)行官凱蒂?高爾?斯蒂格。圖片來(lái)源:Goodwill NYNH

“購(gòu)物就像獵奇。你來(lái)到這里,能找到很多樂趣,我們希望能做得有吸引力?!贝蠹~約和北新澤西地區(qū)Goodwill(Goodwill NYNJ)的首席執(zhí)行官凱蒂?高爾?斯蒂格向《財(cái)富》雜志表示,她帶著我們參觀了商店。

在此之前,Goodwill就開始對(duì)門店進(jìn)行現(xiàn)代化改造,以重振近年來(lái)停滯不前的零售業(yè)務(wù)。

新冠疫情不過(guò)是增加了改造的緊迫感,考慮到這一事件可能會(huì)永遠(yuǎn)改變?nèi)藗兊馁?gòu)物方式——以一種對(duì)Goodwill有利的方式,消費(fèi)者的購(gòu)物模式會(huì)更加“轉(zhuǎn)向節(jié)儉”:上周,全球數(shù)據(jù)(Global Data)的一項(xiàng)研究預(yù)計(jì),美國(guó)二手商店的銷售額將從今年的210億美元上升到2024年的280億美元,而與此同時(shí),連彭尼百貨(J.C. Penney)和Gap等連鎖品牌都不得不應(yīng)對(duì)客戶流失的問(wèn)題。

“我們想重新改造店面,重新介紹自己。”高爾?斯蒂格說(shuō)。比如,增加在Instagram上的曝光度,和有影響力的人合作,更頻繁地更換店內(nèi)商品,打造如今消費(fèi)者熱衷的“淘寶式”購(gòu)物。

Goodwill NYNJ在紐約布魯克林的商店。圖片來(lái)源:Courtesy: Goodwill

盡管搭上了二手零售增長(zhǎng)的東風(fēng),Goodwill也面臨更多來(lái)自在線二手商店的競(jìng)爭(zhēng),如ThredUp、 Poshmark、the RealReal,以及來(lái)自低價(jià)零售商的競(jìng)爭(zhēng);就在離Goodwill布魯克林店只有一個(gè)街區(qū)左右的地方,就是人頭攢動(dòng)的諾斯通折扣店(Nordstrom Rack)和T.J. Maxx店,消費(fèi)者在這里也同樣能淘寶。

Goodwill NYNJ有27家門店,分布在大紐約地區(qū)、長(zhǎng)島和哈德遜谷,這些店業(yè)績(jī)不錯(cuò):去年?duì)I業(yè)額為4310萬(wàn)美元。但零售額在這個(gè)水平徘徊不前已經(jīng)好幾年了。(該組織每年預(yù)算為1.2億美元,缺口由資助和捐贈(zèng)補(bǔ)齊。)尤其現(xiàn)在無(wú)法舉辦晚會(huì)和籌款活動(dòng),為了有足夠的資金完成幫助人們(尤其是自閉癥患者)找工作的使命,出色的零售是必不可少的。

“我們也在追趕潮流。作為首席執(zhí)行官,我需要確保店鋪在市場(chǎng)上有競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力,因?yàn)檫@些店鋪是我們的發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī),支撐我們完成Goodwill為人們熟知的使命和任務(wù)。”45歲的高爾?斯蒂格說(shuō),她于五年前到任,之前在紐約市政府工作。她的政府工作經(jīng)歷包括在紐約市長(zhǎng)勞動(dòng)力發(fā)展辦公室擔(dān)任執(zhí)行主任,該辦公室的職責(zé)是幫助人們找工作。

起初,斯蒂格和她的團(tuán)隊(duì)考慮將門店內(nèi)部重新命名為“策展”(Curated),再改一個(gè)時(shí)髦的標(biāo)識(shí)。在曼哈頓兩家Goodwill商店和新澤西一家商店依然可以看到這種風(fēng)格,其他一些商店也可以看出一點(diǎn)這種痕跡。但她覺得(而且客戶數(shù)據(jù)也證實(shí)了這一點(diǎn)),這些時(shí)髦的標(biāo)識(shí)蓋過(guò)了商店想要傳達(dá)的追求節(jié)儉的信息。塔吉特(Target)在幾年前也遇到了同樣的問(wèn)題,當(dāng)時(shí)該公司新潮的營(yíng)銷給顧客留下了買不起他們產(chǎn)品的印象,消費(fèi)者因此感到困惑。

“我們要確保,價(jià)值觀是最重要的?!彼f(shuō),“我們希望我們的價(jià)值觀是平易近人、有趣,與本組織的核心保持一致?!?

在成為Goodwill NYNJ的首席執(zhí)行官之前,高爾?斯蒂格唯一一份零售工作是在Gap打的第一份工。因此,她在自己身邊招募了零售行業(yè)多位頂級(jí)管理人員,包括在Intermix和蔻馳(Coach)等大型連鎖企業(yè)工作過(guò)的高管。

她說(shuō),這幫助她度過(guò)了現(xiàn)代零售史上的最大危機(jī),而且這個(gè)時(shí)候,由于失業(yè)人數(shù)眾多,實(shí)現(xiàn)Goodwill的使命也一如既往的有難度。

她管理Goodwill的方法就像任何一位首席執(zhí)行官管理零售業(yè)務(wù)一樣,同時(shí)她積極挖掘Goodwill的優(yōu)勢(shì)——比如,Goodwill在古著還不流行前就已經(jīng)開始售賣古著了。這有助于消除在Goodwill購(gòu)物可能帶來(lái)的任何羞恥感,尤其是在這個(gè)經(jīng)濟(jì)困難時(shí)期。高爾?斯蒂格夢(mèng)想中的場(chǎng)景是,有更多人來(lái)捐贈(zèng)高質(zhì)量的物品(大約50%的捐贈(zèng)物品最終可以轉(zhuǎn)賣),有更多人來(lái)購(gòu)物,商店可以吸引不同的收入階層。

高爾?斯蒂格說(shuō):“如果有越來(lái)越多人給Goodwill捐贈(zèng),有越來(lái)越多人在Goodwill購(gòu)物,我們的發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)動(dòng)力就越強(qiáng)?!?

她認(rèn)為Goodwill在二手售賣行業(yè)有悠久的歷史,他們可以賦予衣物第二次生命,她想充分利用這些優(yōu)勢(shì)。她說(shuō),這兩點(diǎn)也是消費(fèi)者優(yōu)先考慮的事項(xiàng),這樣組織和顧客就實(shí)現(xiàn)了步調(diào)一致。

“我們是一個(gè)有100年歷史的‘可持續(xù)發(fā)展’組織。”她說(shuō)。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Agatha

上周,在布魯克林中心區(qū)的Goodwill慈善商店里——就在紐約市恢復(fù)到店購(gòu)物的第二天——顧客源源不斷地走進(jìn)店里,在保持社交距離的同時(shí),從貨架上拿起裙子襯衫,精心挑選餐具套裝,投身于他們已經(jīng)期待了好幾個(gè)星期的淘寶式購(gòu)物中。

地板上貼著新標(biāo)識(shí),提醒消費(fèi)者保持6英尺的距離,商店的其他地方則透露出Goodwill慈善商店正在進(jìn)行大改造:貨架換成了現(xiàn)代風(fēng)格,背后的墻壁色彩斑斕,地板干凈得閃閃發(fā)光,櫥窗里的人體模特都穿上了時(shí)髦的服飾,客戶還可以選擇蘋果支付來(lái)付款。

“購(gòu)物就像獵奇。你來(lái)到這里,能找到很多樂趣,我們希望能做得有吸引力?!贝蠹~約和北新澤西地區(qū)Goodwill(Goodwill NYNJ)的首席執(zhí)行官凱蒂?高爾?斯蒂格向《財(cái)富》雜志表示,她帶著我們參觀了商店。

在此之前,Goodwill就開始對(duì)門店進(jìn)行現(xiàn)代化改造,以重振近年來(lái)停滯不前的零售業(yè)務(wù)。

新冠疫情不過(guò)是增加了改造的緊迫感,考慮到這一事件可能會(huì)永遠(yuǎn)改變?nèi)藗兊馁?gòu)物方式——以一種對(duì)Goodwill有利的方式,消費(fèi)者的購(gòu)物模式會(huì)更加“轉(zhuǎn)向節(jié)儉”:上周,全球數(shù)據(jù)(Global Data)的一項(xiàng)研究預(yù)計(jì),美國(guó)二手商店的銷售額將從今年的210億美元上升到2024年的280億美元,而與此同時(shí),連彭尼百貨(J.C. Penney)和Gap等連鎖品牌都不得不應(yīng)對(duì)客戶流失的問(wèn)題。

“我們想重新改造店面,重新介紹自己?!备郀?斯蒂格說(shuō)。比如,增加在Instagram上的曝光度,和有影響力的人合作,更頻繁地更換店內(nèi)商品,打造如今消費(fèi)者熱衷的“淘寶式”購(gòu)物。

盡管搭上了二手零售增長(zhǎng)的東風(fēng),Goodwill也面臨更多來(lái)自在線二手商店的競(jìng)爭(zhēng),如ThredUp、 Poshmark、the RealReal,以及來(lái)自低價(jià)零售商的競(jìng)爭(zhēng);就在離Goodwill布魯克林店只有一個(gè)街區(qū)左右的地方,就是人頭攢動(dòng)的諾斯通折扣店(Nordstrom Rack)和T.J. Maxx店,消費(fèi)者在這里也同樣能淘寶。

Goodwill NYNJ有27家門店,分布在大紐約地區(qū)、長(zhǎng)島和哈德遜谷,這些店業(yè)績(jī)不錯(cuò):去年?duì)I業(yè)額為4310萬(wàn)美元。但零售額在這個(gè)水平徘徊不前已經(jīng)好幾年了。(該組織每年預(yù)算為1.2億美元,缺口由資助和捐贈(zèng)補(bǔ)齊。)尤其現(xiàn)在無(wú)法舉辦晚會(huì)和籌款活動(dòng),為了有足夠的資金完成幫助人們(尤其是自閉癥患者)找工作的使命,出色的零售是必不可少的。

“我們也在追趕潮流。作為首席執(zhí)行官,我需要確保店鋪在市場(chǎng)上有競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力,因?yàn)檫@些店鋪是我們的發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī),支撐我們完成Goodwill為人們熟知的使命和任務(wù)?!?5歲的高爾?斯蒂格說(shuō),她于五年前到任,之前在紐約市政府工作。她的政府工作經(jīng)歷包括在紐約市長(zhǎng)勞動(dòng)力發(fā)展辦公室擔(dān)任執(zhí)行主任,該辦公室的職責(zé)是幫助人們找工作。

起初,斯蒂格和她的團(tuán)隊(duì)考慮將門店內(nèi)部重新命名為“策展”(Curated),再改一個(gè)時(shí)髦的標(biāo)識(shí)。在曼哈頓兩家Goodwill商店和新澤西一家商店依然可以看到這種風(fēng)格,其他一些商店也可以看出一點(diǎn)這種痕跡。但她覺得(而且客戶數(shù)據(jù)也證實(shí)了這一點(diǎn)),這些時(shí)髦的標(biāo)識(shí)蓋過(guò)了商店想要傳達(dá)的追求節(jié)儉的信息。塔吉特(Target)在幾年前也遇到了同樣的問(wèn)題,當(dāng)時(shí)該公司新潮的營(yíng)銷給顧客留下了買不起他們產(chǎn)品的印象,消費(fèi)者因此感到困惑。

“我們要確保,價(jià)值觀是最重要的。”她說(shuō),“我們希望我們的價(jià)值觀是平易近人、有趣,與本組織的核心保持一致?!?

在成為Goodwill NYNJ的首席執(zhí)行官之前,高爾?斯蒂格唯一一份零售工作是在Gap打的第一份工。因此,她在自己身邊招募了零售行業(yè)多位頂級(jí)管理人員,包括在Intermix和蔻馳(Coach)等大型連鎖企業(yè)工作過(guò)的高管。

她說(shuō),這幫助她度過(guò)了現(xiàn)代零售史上的最大危機(jī),而且這個(gè)時(shí)候,由于失業(yè)人數(shù)眾多,實(shí)現(xiàn)Goodwill的使命也一如既往的有難度。

她管理Goodwill的方法就像任何一位首席執(zhí)行官管理零售業(yè)務(wù)一樣,同時(shí)她積極挖掘Goodwill的優(yōu)勢(shì)——比如,Goodwill在古著還不流行前就已經(jīng)開始售賣古著了。這有助于消除在Goodwill購(gòu)物可能帶來(lái)的任何羞恥感,尤其是在這個(gè)經(jīng)濟(jì)困難時(shí)期。高爾?斯蒂格夢(mèng)想中的場(chǎng)景是,有更多人來(lái)捐贈(zèng)高質(zhì)量的物品(大約50%的捐贈(zèng)物品最終可以轉(zhuǎn)賣),有更多人來(lái)購(gòu)物,商店可以吸引不同的收入階層。

高爾?斯蒂格說(shuō):“如果有越來(lái)越多人給Goodwill捐贈(zèng),有越來(lái)越多人在Goodwill購(gòu)物,我們的發(fā)動(dòng)機(jī)動(dòng)力就越強(qiáng)?!?

她認(rèn)為Goodwill在二手售賣行業(yè)有悠久的歷史,他們可以賦予衣物第二次生命,她想充分利用這些優(yōu)勢(shì)。她說(shuō),這兩點(diǎn)也是消費(fèi)者優(yōu)先考慮的事項(xiàng),這樣組織和顧客就實(shí)現(xiàn)了步調(diào)一致。

“我們是一個(gè)有100年歷史的‘可持續(xù)發(fā)展’組織。”她說(shuō)。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Agatha

At the Goodwill store in downtown Brooklyn last week—the second day after in-store shopping was reinstated in New York City—a steady stream of shoppers milled about while social distancing, taking dresses and blouses off the racks and examining the dinnerware selection, partaking in the treasure hunt shopping they'd been craving for weeks.

While there was new signage on the floor reminding shoppers to keep six feet apart, other touches in the store were a reminder of the larger transformation going on in Goodwill's locations: clothes were displayed in modern shelving against colorful walls, floors were immaculate and buffed, mannequins in the window were decked out in stylish clothing, and customers had the option to pay by Apple Pay.

"It’s the hunt. You can come here and have a lot of fun, we want this to be inviting," Katy Gaul-Stigge, the CEO of Goodwill Industries of Greater New York and Northern New Jersey, as the organization's metro New York affiliate is formally known, told Fortune as she gave us a tour of the store.

Before the pandemic, Goodwill was already modernizing the look of its stores to re-energize a retail business that had grown stagnant in recent years.

And the virus crisis is only adding urgency to those efforts, given the permanent ways COVID-19 is expected to change shopping habits in favor of Goodwill, deepening the so-called " shift to thrift ": last week, a study by research firm Global Data projected that U.S. sales at thrift stores would rise from $21 billion this year to $28 billion by 2024, even as chains like J.C. Penney and The Gap deal with defecting shoppers.

"We wanted to refresh the stores and re-introduce ourselves," said Gaul-Stigge. That effort has included creating an Instagram presence, teaming up with influencers, and changing the merchandise in stores more often to enhance that "treasure hunt" shopping that consumers love so much today.

Despite the tailwind thrift retail enjoys, Goodwill is facing more competition from the likes of online resale stores like ThredUp, Poshmark, the RealReal, and off-price retailers; just a block or so away from the Brooklyn Goodwill are bustling Nordstrom Rack and T.J. Maxx stores, which also offer treasure hunt shopping.

Goodwill NYNJ's 27 stores, which are in greater New York City, Long island, and the Hudson Valley, do a solid business: last year, they took in $43.1 million. But retail sales have been stuck at around that level for several years. (The organization's $120 million annual budget is filled out by things like grants and donations.) And without events like galas and fundraisers to supplement its mission of helping people—notably those with autism—find work, a healthy retail offering is essential.

"We are following the trends, too. I need as CEO to be making sure we are competitive in the market, because these stores are our fuel, this helps us do the work that Goodwill is known for," says the 45 year-old, who took the reins of Goodwill NYNJ five years ago after a career in city government. That included most recently a stint as executive director of the New York Mayor’s Office of Workforce Development, which works to help people find employment.

Initially, Gaul-Stigge and her team fiddled around with an idea of rebranding the interior of the stores as "Curated," with a sleek logo. That look remains at two Goodwill Manhattan stores and one in New Jersey, and is visible in parts of other stores. But she felt, with customer data to back her up, that the hip signage was overpowering the stores' message of thrift. (Target ran into this same problem a few years ago when it confused customers with hip marketing that made them feel they couldn't afford its wares.)

"We are making sure value is front and center," she says. "We want to it be accessible and fun and stay with our core."

Prior to becoming CEO of Goodwill NYNJ, Gaul-Stigge's only retail gig had been at the Gap in her first-ever job. So she has surrounded herself with A-list directors from the world of retail, including executives with experience at big chains like Intermix and Coach.

That, she says, is helping her navigate the biggest crisis in retail's modern history at a time Goodwill's mission is as hard to carry out as ever, given massive unemployment.

Her approach has been to manage Goodwill as any CEO would manage a retailer, and lean into advantages such as having been vintage before vintage was cool. It helps that any stigma about shopping at Goodwill is evaporating, especially at this difficult economic time. Gaul-Stigge's dream scenario is for more people to come in to donate quality items (some 50% of donated items are ultimately resellable) and also to shop, up and down the income spectrum.

"When everyone donates and everyone shops at Goodwill, the engine gets stronger," says Gaul-Stigge.

And she wants to leverage the long head start she feels Goodwill has in resale and the second life it gives a garment, which she says puts the organization in sync with shoppers' priorities now.

"Here we have a 100 year old 'sustainable' organization," she says.

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