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小零售企業(yè)的經(jīng)營之道:是網(wǎng)紅毛衣,也是公益事業(yè)

Rachel King
2020-08-03

《財富》雜志采訪了網(wǎng)紅毛衣Lingua Franca的創(chuàng)始人。

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當(dāng)你走過時,很難不注意到最高法院大法官露絲·巴德·金斯伯格那幅奪人眼球的肖像畫,她穿著法官袍,領(lǐng)口一圈標(biāo)志性的縐邊,里面是一件知更鳥蛋藍(lán)色的毛衣,上面繡著“booyah”。

這張肖像掛在Lingua Franca品牌紐約西村的精品店櫥窗里,正下方的標(biāo)語寫著“我在乎”(Give a damn),完美詮釋了這個獨立時尚品牌的品牌形象。Lingua Franca成立于2016年,是一家使用可持續(xù)原料生產(chǎn)奢侈羊絨毛衣的公平貿(mào)易品牌,商品全部由紐約市的女性手工縫制。

《財富》雜志最近采訪了Lingua Franca的創(chuàng)始人羅謝爾·魯斯卡·麥克弗森,討論了在社會議題和公共健康危機不斷的時期,經(jīng)營一家不斷發(fā)展的小型零售企業(yè)是什么感覺。

為簡明起見,以下采訪略有刪減。

2018年12月22日,位于曼哈頓西村的Lingua Franca商店。圖片來源:Rachel King

《財富》:過去幾年,Lingua Franca標(biāo)志性的標(biāo)語刺繡圓領(lǐng)毛衣辨識度越來越高(甚至有人說它已經(jīng)成為一種風(fēng)格)。是什么給了你設(shè)計靈感,又是什么促使你把靈感轉(zhuǎn)化成一家成熟的企業(yè)?

麥克弗森:Lingua Franca是一個意外之喜。我六年級時跟奶奶學(xué)會了縫紉和刺繡,后來治療師建議我培養(yǎng)一個手工愛好來對抗焦慮,去年冬天我重新?lián)炱鹆诉@個愛好,開始在舊毛衣上刺繡,其中一件繡了“booyah”。我把其中一些照片發(fā)到了Instagram上,有幾十個朋友想要。整個故事大概就是從那里開始的,開始有店鋪在Instagram上向我訂購毛衣。我十分喜歡通用語言(lingua franca)這個概念,人們使用通用語言,這是一種團結(jié)。我也很喜歡手工制作的方式,我們的每一件作品都不是批量生產(chǎn)的。

很多明星和網(wǎng)絡(luò)意見領(lǐng)袖都在穿,LF的毛衣也在Instagram上走紅。社交媒體對你的生意產(chǎn)生了什么影響,包括品牌塑造、客戶參與、服務(wù)等?

對我們而言,這個品牌的一切都是從Instagram起步的,而我們在這個平臺社區(qū)里遇到的人總是能帶給我們驚訝。我們建了實體店后,很高興能把現(xiàn)實聚會里的內(nèi)容和活動放到社交平臺上,和我們在線社區(qū)的客戶分享。我仍然親自運營品牌的社交媒體賬號。雖然很花時間,但我覺得這是和客戶溝通的最好方式。

明星和網(wǎng)絡(luò)意見領(lǐng)袖之所以經(jīng)常穿LF毛衣,部分原因是刺繡文字傳達(dá)的信息往往在呼應(yīng)某項公益事業(yè),或者傳達(dá)出某種社會信息。(我還很清楚地記得女演員特莎·湯普森兩年前在頒獎季的一次派對上穿了一件紅色刺繡毛衣。那件毛衣上繡了四位女導(dǎo)演的姓,而她們都被卡在了2018年奧斯卡提名之外。)是什么讓LF的毛衣成為一個平臺?客戶的反應(yīng)如何?有沒有人曾經(jīng)對其中的某些信息表示強烈抵制?

這些都不是我“計劃”出來的,作為一家公司,我們順應(yīng)潮流,自然而然地從別人那獲得靈感。隨著人們找我們在毛衣上繡上對他們有意義的詞句,“把毛衣作為一個平臺”的想法自然而然就出現(xiàn)了。我確實認(rèn)為,看到手工刺繡文字所花費的心思和時間,的確蘊含著某種獨一無二的特質(zhì)。這又讓文字有了更多意義。

當(dāng)然,我們也收到過反對意見。剛開始,我們的詞匯表中有很多嘻哈歌詞。我們以為這是對當(dāng)今時代“通用語”的贊美。后來我們意識到,這種做法侵占了我們不屬于的文化。作為回應(yīng),我們決定要努力為黑人社區(qū)作出貢獻(xiàn),并將這些毛衣從商店里下架。我們并不完美,但我們在傾聽和學(xué)習(xí)。最重要的是,我們不會放棄為這個世界帶來愛和正義的努力。我們已經(jīng)為有意義的事業(yè)捐贈了數(shù)十萬美元,并且將每一筆捐款公之于眾,讓世界知道我們說到做到!

Lingua Franca的所有者和創(chuàng)始人羅謝爾·魯斯卡·麥克弗森。圖片來源:Courtesy of Lingua Franca

你們的每一件毛衣都是單獨縫制的,而且都是羊絨衫,所以無可否認(rèn)這些都是高品質(zhì)的高級服裝。但每件毛衣的價格高達(dá)280美元到400美元不等。當(dāng)然,這些都不是快時尚成衣,高品質(zhì)就意味著高價格。但作為一個積極呼應(yīng)社會事業(yè)的品牌,許多消費者卻沒有購買這些毛衣的經(jīng)濟能力。你們的定價依據(jù)是什么?平心而論,毛衣價格中也包括你們對各種社會慈善機構(gòu)的捐贈;你能解釋一下你們是如何決定捐給哪些團體以及通過銷售籌集了多少資金?

我們?yōu)橐呀?jīng)做出的捐贈感到驕傲,為讓世界變得更美好付出的巨大努力感到自豪。不過,每一次合作、每一個項目都各不相同。許多產(chǎn)品的收益都100%捐給了慈善事業(yè)。

對我們來說,很重要的一點是確保我們所有的面料都來自符合最高道德標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的環(huán)保供應(yīng)商。我們刺繡工人的工資超過了最低工資,我們也很自豪能夠為紐約市大量刺繡工人提供全職工作。當(dāng)然,正因如此,我們的產(chǎn)品比快時尚行業(yè)品質(zhì)更好,價格也更貴。我認(rèn)為現(xiàn)在的消費者比以往任何時候都更關(guān)心他們的產(chǎn)品來自哪里以及品牌背后的道德標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。我們要確保我們做的每一件事都是經(jīng)過深思熟慮的,現(xiàn)在這一點比以往任何時候都更重要。

你最近在Lingua Franca的網(wǎng)站上寫了一篇關(guān)于“黑人的命也很重要”運動(Black Lives Matter)的文章,寫了你準(zhǔn)備如何利用自身優(yōu)勢做得更好。當(dāng)然,現(xiàn)在我們應(yīng)該傾聽和學(xué)習(xí)黑人領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者、尤其是黑人女性領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者的聲音,但說到如何才能更好、更積極地為BIPOC(黑人、原住民和有色人種)社區(qū)做貢獻(xiàn),你會給其他白人女性創(chuàng)始人什么建議?

我認(rèn)為傾聽很重要,但行動是當(dāng)務(wù)之急,尤其是以白人女性盟友的身份行動。我不喜歡看到白人朋友在為BIPOC社區(qū)說話時變得猶豫不決,猶豫的原因是害怕把事情搞砸或者讓人認(rèn)為是在發(fā)出道德信號。是的,大聲疾呼需要勇氣,但我們必須這樣做,即使會犯錯?,F(xiàn)在不是沉默的時候。向社區(qū)發(fā)出道德信號,展示我們在某個問題上的立場,歷史上的變化恰恰就是這么發(fā)生的,今后也將繼續(xù)這樣發(fā)生。我認(rèn)為雇傭黑人女性在公司關(guān)鍵崗位任職、讓黑人女性融入你的社交圈也很重要。改變必須由內(nèi)而外。這需要真正付出努力,需要走出舒適區(qū)。

2019年7月25日,“小刺”項目(“Tiny Pricks Project”)在紐約Lingua Franca的店鋪展覽。這個項目包含900多件彩色刺繡作品,主題是特朗普主義。圖片來源:Eduardo Munoz Alvarez-AFP /Getty Images

眾所周知,零售業(yè)在相當(dāng)長一段時間內(nèi)舉步維艱,尤其是實體店,疫情前就這樣了。你們有一家精品店位于西村(West Village)的布里克街(Bleecker Street),那片商鋪上都是博柏利(Burberry)和馬克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)這樣的品牌。而且即便是高端零售商,也無法同時承受租金上漲和業(yè)績下滑的壓力。實體店還有什么價值?在疫情期間和疫情過后,你們的精力主要放在哪些銷售渠道上?

我之前提到過這個問題,我們的實體店從來都不僅僅是“商店”。從一開始,實體店就是我們品牌的延伸。我們希望擁有現(xiàn)實空間,去碰撞思維,再把線下的東西帶回線上。我們的商店每周都舉辦座談、問答和作者之夜,也是多位作者和活動家的社區(qū)中心。去年夏天,我們甚至搖身一變,成為一個實打?qū)嵉漠嬂?,為“小刺計劃”做了三個月藝術(shù)展覽。

顯然,這個“將商店作為社區(qū)空間”的想法在新冠疫情時代發(fā)生了一些變化,但我仍然對現(xiàn)實體驗充滿期待。雖然我們的電商業(yè)務(wù)大幅發(fā)展,我們?nèi)匀黄诖鴮嶓w店重新開張,期待繼續(xù)在現(xiàn)實生活中與人們會面。(財富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Feb

當(dāng)你走過時,很難不注意到最高法院大法官露絲·巴德·金斯伯格那幅奪人眼球的肖像畫,她穿著法官袍,領(lǐng)口一圈標(biāo)志性的縐邊,里面是一件知更鳥蛋藍(lán)色的毛衣,上面繡著“booyah”。

這張肖像掛在Lingua Franca品牌紐約西村的精品店櫥窗里,正下方的標(biāo)語寫著“我在乎”(Give a damn),完美詮釋了這個獨立時尚品牌的品牌形象。Lingua Franca成立于2016年,是一家使用可持續(xù)原料生產(chǎn)奢侈羊絨毛衣的公平貿(mào)易品牌,商品全部由紐約市的女性手工縫制。

《財富》雜志最近采訪了Lingua Franca的創(chuàng)始人羅謝爾·魯斯卡·麥克弗森,討論了在社會議題和公共健康危機不斷的時期,經(jīng)營一家不斷發(fā)展的小型零售企業(yè)是什么感覺。

為簡明起見,以下采訪略有刪減。

《財富》:過去幾年,Lingua Franca標(biāo)志性的標(biāo)語刺繡圓領(lǐng)毛衣辨識度越來越高(甚至有人說它已經(jīng)成為一種風(fēng)格)。是什么給了你設(shè)計靈感,又是什么促使你把靈感轉(zhuǎn)化成一家成熟的企業(yè)?

麥克弗森:Lingua Franca是一個意外之喜。我六年級時跟奶奶學(xué)會了縫紉和刺繡,后來治療師建議我培養(yǎng)一個手工愛好來對抗焦慮,去年冬天我重新?lián)炱鹆诉@個愛好,開始在舊毛衣上刺繡,其中一件繡了“booyah”。我把其中一些照片發(fā)到了Instagram上,有幾十個朋友想要。整個故事大概就是從那里開始的,開始有店鋪在Instagram上向我訂購毛衣。我十分喜歡通用語言(lingua franca)這個概念,人們使用通用語言,這是一種團結(jié)。我也很喜歡手工制作的方式,我們的每一件作品都不是批量生產(chǎn)的。

很多明星和網(wǎng)絡(luò)意見領(lǐng)袖都在穿,LF的毛衣也在Instagram上走紅。社交媒體對你的生意產(chǎn)生了什么影響,包括品牌塑造、客戶參與、服務(wù)等?

對我們而言,這個品牌的一切都是從Instagram起步的,而我們在這個平臺社區(qū)里遇到的人總是能帶給我們驚訝。我們建了實體店后,很高興能把現(xiàn)實聚會里的內(nèi)容和活動放到社交平臺上,和我們在線社區(qū)的客戶分享。我仍然親自運營品牌的社交媒體賬號。雖然很花時間,但我覺得這是和客戶溝通的最好方式。

明星和網(wǎng)絡(luò)意見領(lǐng)袖之所以經(jīng)常穿LF毛衣,部分原因是刺繡文字傳達(dá)的信息往往在呼應(yīng)某項公益事業(yè),或者傳達(dá)出某種社會信息。(我還很清楚地記得女演員特莎·湯普森兩年前在頒獎季的一次派對上穿了一件紅色刺繡毛衣。那件毛衣上繡了四位女導(dǎo)演的姓,而她們都被卡在了2018年奧斯卡提名之外。)是什么讓LF的毛衣成為一個平臺?客戶的反應(yīng)如何?有沒有人曾經(jīng)對其中的某些信息表示強烈抵制?

這些都不是我“計劃”出來的,作為一家公司,我們順應(yīng)潮流,自然而然地從別人那獲得靈感。隨著人們找我們在毛衣上繡上對他們有意義的詞句,“把毛衣作為一個平臺”的想法自然而然就出現(xiàn)了。我確實認(rèn)為,看到手工刺繡文字所花費的心思和時間,的確蘊含著某種獨一無二的特質(zhì)。這又讓文字有了更多意義。

當(dāng)然,我們也收到過反對意見。剛開始,我們的詞匯表中有很多嘻哈歌詞。我們以為這是對當(dāng)今時代“通用語”的贊美。后來我們意識到,這種做法侵占了我們不屬于的文化。作為回應(yīng),我們決定要努力為黑人社區(qū)作出貢獻(xiàn),并將這些毛衣從商店里下架。我們并不完美,但我們在傾聽和學(xué)習(xí)。最重要的是,我們不會放棄為這個世界帶來愛和正義的努力。我們已經(jīng)為有意義的事業(yè)捐贈了數(shù)十萬美元,并且將每一筆捐款公之于眾,讓世界知道我們說到做到!

你們的每一件毛衣都是單獨縫制的,而且都是羊絨衫,所以無可否認(rèn)這些都是高品質(zhì)的高級服裝。但每件毛衣的價格高達(dá)280美元到400美元不等。當(dāng)然,這些都不是快時尚成衣,高品質(zhì)就意味著高價格。但作為一個積極呼應(yīng)社會事業(yè)的品牌,許多消費者卻沒有購買這些毛衣的經(jīng)濟能力。你們的定價依據(jù)是什么?平心而論,毛衣價格中也包括你們對各種社會慈善機構(gòu)的捐贈;你能解釋一下你們是如何決定捐給哪些團體以及通過銷售籌集了多少資金?

我們?yōu)橐呀?jīng)做出的捐贈感到驕傲,為讓世界變得更美好付出的巨大努力感到自豪。不過,每一次合作、每一個項目都各不相同。許多產(chǎn)品的收益都100%捐給了慈善事業(yè)。

對我們來說,很重要的一點是確保我們所有的面料都來自符合最高道德標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的環(huán)保供應(yīng)商。我們刺繡工人的工資超過了最低工資,我們也很自豪能夠為紐約市大量刺繡工人提供全職工作。當(dāng)然,正因如此,我們的產(chǎn)品比快時尚行業(yè)品質(zhì)更好,價格也更貴。我認(rèn)為現(xiàn)在的消費者比以往任何時候都更關(guān)心他們的產(chǎn)品來自哪里以及品牌背后的道德標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。我們要確保我們做的每一件事都是經(jīng)過深思熟慮的,現(xiàn)在這一點比以往任何時候都更重要。

你最近在Lingua Franca的網(wǎng)站上寫了一篇關(guān)于“黑人的命也很重要”運動(Black Lives Matter)的文章,寫了你準(zhǔn)備如何利用自身優(yōu)勢做得更好。當(dāng)然,現(xiàn)在我們應(yīng)該傾聽和學(xué)習(xí)黑人領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者、尤其是黑人女性領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者的聲音,但說到如何才能更好、更積極地為BIPOC(黑人、原住民和有色人種)社區(qū)做貢獻(xiàn),你會給其他白人女性創(chuàng)始人什么建議?

我認(rèn)為傾聽很重要,但行動是當(dāng)務(wù)之急,尤其是以白人女性盟友的身份行動。我不喜歡看到白人朋友在為BIPOC社區(qū)說話時變得猶豫不決,猶豫的原因是害怕把事情搞砸或者讓人認(rèn)為是在發(fā)出道德信號。是的,大聲疾呼需要勇氣,但我們必須這樣做,即使會犯錯?,F(xiàn)在不是沉默的時候。向社區(qū)發(fā)出道德信號,展示我們在某個問題上的立場,歷史上的變化恰恰就是這么發(fā)生的,今后也將繼續(xù)這樣發(fā)生。我認(rèn)為雇傭黑人女性在公司關(guān)鍵崗位任職、讓黑人女性融入你的社交圈也很重要。改變必須由內(nèi)而外。這需要真正付出努力,需要走出舒適區(qū)。

眾所周知,零售業(yè)在相當(dāng)長一段時間內(nèi)舉步維艱,尤其是實體店,疫情前就這樣了。你們有一家精品店位于西村(West Village)的布里克街(Bleecker Street),那片商鋪上都是博柏利(Burberry)和馬克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)這樣的品牌。而且即便是高端零售商,也無法同時承受租金上漲和業(yè)績下滑的壓力。實體店還有什么價值?在疫情期間和疫情過后,你們的精力主要放在哪些銷售渠道上?

我之前提到過這個問題,我們的實體店從來都不僅僅是“商店”。從一開始,實體店就是我們品牌的延伸。我們希望擁有現(xiàn)實空間,去碰撞思維,再把線下的東西帶回線上。我們的商店每周都舉辦座談、問答和作者之夜,也是多位作者和活動家的社區(qū)中心。去年夏天,我們甚至搖身一變,成為一個實打?qū)嵉漠嬂龋瑸椤靶〈逃媱潯弊隽巳齻€月藝術(shù)展覽。

顯然,這個“將商店作為社區(qū)空間”的想法在新冠疫情時代發(fā)生了一些變化,但我仍然對現(xiàn)實體驗充滿期待。雖然我們的電商業(yè)務(wù)大幅發(fā)展,我們?nèi)匀黄诖鴮嶓w店重新開張,期待繼續(xù)在現(xiàn)實生活中與人們會面。(財富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Feb

It’s hard to walk by and not notice a glittery portrait of Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, painted in her judicial robe and trademark jabot…but also a robin’s egg blue embroidered sweater that reads “booyah.”

Framed in the window just above the slogan “Give a damn,” the portrait at Lingua Franca’s West Village boutique in New York City captures the independent fashion label’s brand perfectly. Founded in 2016, Lingua Franca is a line of sustainably sourced, fair trade luxury cashmere sweaters—all hand-stitched by women in New York City.

Fortune recently spoke with Lingua Franca founder Rachelle Hruska MacPherson about what it has been like running a small retail business with a growing platform during a time of social discourse and a public health crisis.

The following interview has been lightly edited and condensed for clarity.

Fortune: Lingua Franca’s signature crewneck sweater with cursive embroidered messages has become instantly recognizable (and some might even say iconic) in the past few years. What inspired that particular aesthetic, and what motivated you to make it a full-fledged business?

MacPherson: Lingua Franca started as a happy accident. I learned how to sew and embroider from my grandma when I was in sixth grade, and after my therapist suggested I find a hobby to do with my hands to combat my anxiety, I picked it back up again last winter on my own old sweaters, stitching “booyah” into one. I posted a few to Instagram, and I had dozens of friends start asking for them. It sort of started from there as I got stores asking over Instagram to stock the sweaters. I absolutely adore the idea of a common language—a lingua franca—among people as a form of unity. I also loved the fact that each one is done by hand and is the opposite of mass-produced.

LF’s sweaters have also surged in popularity as they are worn by celebrities and influencers all over Instagram. How does social media play a role in your business, from shaping your brand to customer engagement and service?

Everything got started on Instagram for us, and I’m continually amazed by the community of people we have met through the platform. When building out our brick-and-mortar stores, we were excited to be able to bring content from real-life meet-ups and events back online and to share them with our online social community. I still personally run our social media accounts. It is time-consuming, but I feel it’s the best way to engage with our customers.

Part of why the celebs and influencers are often seen with LF sweaters are the embroidered messages, which often reflect a charitable cause or social message. (I keenly remember actress Tessa Thompson wearing a LF red embroidered sweater at a party during awards season two years ago. The sweater had the first names of four female directors shut out from nominations at the 2018 Oscars.) What motivated making the sweaters into a platform? What has feedback been like from customers? Have you ever received any backlash over any of the messages?

Because I never “planned” any of this, we as a company have been able to go with the flow and riff off inspiration from others in real time. The “sweaters as a platform” piece has happened naturally as people started approaching us to hand-stitch words that matter to them. I do think there is something unique and special about seeing the care and time it took to hand-embroider words. It somehow gives them more meaning.

And, of course we have received backlash over some messages. In our beginning, we had many hip-hop lyrics in our repertoire. We thought it was a celebration of words that were the “l(fā)ingua franca” of our times. We have since realized how this was appropriation of a culture we didn’t belong to. In response, we decided to make significant contributions to the Black community and remove them from our shop. We aren’t perfect, but we are listening and learning. Most importantly, we aren’t giving up in our fight to put love and justice into the world. We have donated hundreds of thousands of dollars to causes that are meaningful to us, and publicize each donation so the world knows we will put our money where our mouth is!

All the sweaters are individually stitched, and they are made from cashmere, so admittedly these are quality and luxury clothes. But pricing ranges from $280 to $400 per sweater. Certainly, these aren’t fast-fashion products, and quality demands a higher price. But for a brand that aligns itself with social causes, there is a socioeconomic barrier for many consumers to buying these sweaters. What goes into setting the prices where they’re at? To be fair, prices include donations to various social charities; could you explain more about that process in terms of how you decide on which groups to donate to and how much has been raised through sales?

We are so proud to be able to make the donations we have been able to make, and make significant strides in making the world better. That being said, each and every collaboration and cause is different and unique. Many items donate 100% of their proceeds to a cause.

It is also very important to us to make sure we are sourcing all of our fabrics from eco-friendly sources with the most ethical standards possible. Our embroiderers make above minimum wage, and we are proud to be able to provide full-time jobs to many embroiderers in New York City. This all, of course, makes our product both superior and more expensive than something you will find in the fast-fashion industry. Right now, I think consumers care more than ever about where their products are coming from and the ethics of the brands behind them. It’s important now more than ever to make sure we are thoughtful in everything we do.

You recently wrote a blog posted to Lingua Franca’s website about Black Lives Matter, explaining how you want to use your privilege to do better. While noting that this is a time we should be listening and learning to Black leaders, especially Black women, what would you say to other white female founders about how they could do better and work harder for BIPOC communities?

I think listening is important, but I also think acting is imperative right now, especially as a white woman ally. I hate seeing white friends become hesitant about speaking out for the BIPOC community because they are afraid of messing up or virtue signaling. Yes, it’s terrifying to speak up, speak out, but we must, even though mistakes will be made. This is not a time to be silent. Virtue signaling to our communities on where we stand on issues is literally how change has happened historically, and it’s how it will continue to happen today. I think it’s also important to hire Black women in key roles in your company, and to incorporate Black women into your close social circle. Change has to happen from within. It takes real work and coming out of comfort zones.

It’s no secret that retail has been suffering for quite some time—bricks and mortar especially, even before the pandemic. One of your boutiques is on Bleecker Street in the West Village, a stretch of real estate that had recently hosted the likes of Burberry and Marc Jacobs. But even higher-end retailers can’t line up the rising rent with falling store sales. What value is there still for brick-and-mortar locations? And during and post-pandemic, which sales channels will you be focusing on most?

I touched on this earlier, but our brick-and-mortar stores were never seen as just “stores.” From the start, they were extensions of our brand. We wanted real-life spaces to activate ideas and bring those things back online. Our stores held weekly panels, Q&As, and author nights, and have been community centers for so many authors and activists. We even became a full-on gallery for an art exhibit—the “Tiny Pricks Project”—for three months last summer.

Obviously, this “store as a community space” idea has changed a bit during COVID times, but I’m still long on real-life experiences. While our e-commerce has been significantly higher, we are still looking forward to reopening in bricks and mortar and continuing to meet people in real life.

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