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一家時(shí)裝公司的經(jīng)營理念:少買點(diǎn),買好點(diǎn)

Rachel King
2020-08-11

這個(gè)品牌致力于減少“時(shí)尚浪費(fèi)”。

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圖片來源:COURTESY OF CUYANA

時(shí)尚行業(yè)華麗服裝的背后,是巨大的資源浪費(fèi),受經(jīng)濟(jì)放緩影響,現(xiàn)在各大品牌又都在想方設(shè)法處理滯銷產(chǎn)品,這讓“時(shí)尚浪費(fèi)”問題比以往任何時(shí)候都倍受關(guān)注。

時(shí)尚品牌Cuyana認(rèn)為,就最大程度減少浪費(fèi)而言,自己在時(shí)尚行業(yè)已經(jīng)遙遙領(lǐng)先。這家位于舊金山的企業(yè)表示,公司只生產(chǎn)零售商認(rèn)為可以售出的產(chǎn)品,也由此實(shí)現(xiàn)了90%的售罄率,這在時(shí)尚行業(yè)絕對(duì)是令人羨慕的成績。而傲人的成績同樣離不開Cuyana選材精良、功能多樣且四季皆宜(可能是其最重要的賣點(diǎn))的產(chǎn)品,即便出現(xiàn)供應(yīng)過剩,產(chǎn)品也很容易放到下一季度甚至下一年度繼續(xù)銷售,從而獲得更長的銷售時(shí)間。

相較于競爭品牌,Cuyana的服裝所選面料都十分結(jié)實(shí)耐用,其中尤以僅出產(chǎn)于秘魯北部的比馬棉織物最為出色,這種耐用性也是Cuyana最為人稱道的特質(zhì)之一。據(jù)估計(jì),比馬棉面料的使用壽命較標(biāo)準(zhǔn)棉面料長50%。為了在裙子、襯衫、褲子以及更多服裝產(chǎn)品中應(yīng)用比馬棉材料,并讓顧客在日常生活中以這些產(chǎn)品為基礎(chǔ)穿搭出各種不同風(fēng)格,Cuyana投入可謂不菲。

正是基于這些思考,Cuyana推出了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的挑戰(zhàn)賽,讓顧客用兩件比馬棉服飾在100天內(nèi)傳出各種不同風(fēng)格。

近期,《財(cái)富》雜志采訪了Cuyana的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人卡拉·加利亞多和希爾帕·沙阿,討論了她們在疫情期間消除時(shí)尚浪費(fèi)的策略。

為簡明期間,以下采訪內(nèi)容做了一些編輯。

Cuyana的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人希爾帕·沙阿(左)和卡拉·加利亞多。圖片來源:Courtesy of Cuyana

《財(cái)富》:早在新冠疫情爆發(fā)前,快時(shí)尚及其造成的浪費(fèi)就已經(jīng)成為零售業(yè)和環(huán)境保護(hù)者頭疼的大問題。過去幾年,Cuyana的服飾產(chǎn)品在市場上贏得了“中端價(jià)格、更高品質(zhì)”的美譽(yù)。在“減少時(shí)尚浪費(fèi)”方面,你們交出比同行更好的成績單,這是怎么做到的?

沙阿:Cuyana的經(jīng)營理念是“更少就是更好”,即購買經(jīng)久耐用、功能多樣的產(chǎn)品,延長使用壽命,減少浪費(fèi)。與大多數(shù)品牌不同,我們希望顧客買少一點(diǎn)、買好一點(diǎn),而不是鼓勵(lì)顧客買太多衣服。此外,我們除了生產(chǎn)和銷售,還會(huì)通過構(gòu)思一些新的穿搭來吸引顧客盡可能穿上我們的衣服,我們也會(huì)為顧客提供護(hù)理指導(dǎo),教會(huì)顧客通過精心保養(yǎng)來延長產(chǎn)品的使用壽命。

考慮到Cuyana是時(shí)尚行業(yè)的服裝零售品牌,從商業(yè)角度來看,你們鼓勵(lì)消費(fèi)者少買衣服的做法會(huì)不會(huì)有點(diǎn)“反?!??是什么促使你們發(fā)起了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的活動(dòng)?

加利亞多:發(fā)起這一活動(dòng)是為了推廣Cuyana主打的比馬棉纖維材料,展示其品質(zhì)、多用性及超長的使用壽命。我們會(huì)向客戶提供各種信息和建議來激發(fā)他們的靈感,使得他們能在100天內(nèi)用2件比馬棉衣服穿搭出各種不同風(fēng)格。之所以會(huì)發(fā)起這項(xiàng)挑戰(zhàn)賽,是因?yàn)槲覀兞私獾矫课幌M(fèi)者平均每年會(huì)購買68件衣服,而這些衣服平均只穿7次就會(huì)被丟掉。(浪費(fèi)如此嚴(yán)重),難怪大家會(huì)把時(shí)尚視為氣候變化的罪魁禍?zhǔn)字弧?/p>

當(dāng)然,我們還發(fā)現(xiàn),消費(fèi)者一旦購買Cuyana品牌的服飾,感受過我們產(chǎn)品的品質(zhì)和強(qiáng)大功能,就會(huì)慢慢用我們的服飾來打造自己的衣櫥,并有可能成為我們的忠實(shí)粉絲。通過持續(xù)提供經(jīng)久耐穿的高品質(zhì)服飾,我們與顧客建立了良好的關(guān)系,也成為了他們購買必備衣物的首選,對(duì)我們而言,這里蘊(yùn)藏著巨大的商機(jī)。贏得消費(fèi)者的信任,從而在必備衣物市場獲得一席之地是我們的經(jīng)營目標(biāo),而要想實(shí)現(xiàn)這一目標(biāo),我們就必須不忘初心,不斷設(shè)計(jì)出耐用的高品質(zhì)產(chǎn)品。

許多零售商在這次經(jīng)濟(jì)下行中遭受了重大打擊。與此同時(shí),消費(fèi)者可能也在重新審視自己的購物習(xí)慣,從購買更多便宜產(chǎn)品轉(zhuǎn)向購買高價(jià)值產(chǎn)品。疫情對(duì)Cuyana有何影響?

加利亞多:與許多零售商(尤其是那些已經(jīng)關(guān)閉實(shí)體店的零售商)一樣,Cuyana的銷售額也經(jīng)歷了從下滑到緩慢穩(wěn)定恢復(fù)的過程。不過,我們也發(fā)現(xiàn),在Cuyana擁有很強(qiáng)優(yōu)勢的基礎(chǔ)產(chǎn)品方面,銷售情況卻是一如既往的好。現(xiàn)在,消費(fèi)者比以往任何時(shí)候都更愿意購買舒適,品質(zhì)又好的日常必備衣物。

此外,我們在設(shè)計(jì)產(chǎn)品時(shí)就已將產(chǎn)品的適應(yīng)性納入考量,希望為消費(fèi)者提供能夠隨著生活場景、生活方式變化而改變的產(chǎn)品。我們以創(chuàng)新的方式將產(chǎn)品的審美功能和實(shí)用功能完美地結(jié)合在一起。比如,我們有一款“三合一”包包,可以用作手抓包、錢包和腰包使用,我們的背包也配有一根可拆卸的背帶,可以作單肩包使用。這種多功能性就體現(xiàn)了我們所說的“更少就是更好”理念:提供結(jié)實(shí)耐用、功能多樣的產(chǎn)品。

Cuyana公司表示,已通過H.E.A.R.T.項(xiàng)目向返校的寄養(yǎng)兒童發(fā)放了1300只背包。圖片來源:Courtesy of Cuyana

展望未來,疫情過后,零售商可以采取哪些措施來遠(yuǎn)離快時(shí)尚、增加對(duì)(產(chǎn)品)重復(fù)使用、回收利用的投入?

沙阿:我們認(rèn)為,這次疫情和隨之而來的“慢生活”為我們打造更可持續(xù)的生活方式創(chuàng)造了可能。品牌方超購存貨造成浪費(fèi)是快時(shí)尚行業(yè)的大問題。為了抓住每個(gè)可能的銷售機(jī)會(huì),許多品牌都愿意超購相對(duì)便宜的存貨。當(dāng)打折也無法賣掉這些存貨時(shí),他們就會(huì)干脆把這些存貨扔掉或者燒掉。讓我們感到震驚的是,60%的成衣會(huì)在出廠一年之內(nèi)會(huì)被燒掉或者丟進(jìn)垃圾堆填區(qū)。

我們沒有采用這種模式,而是盡可能地根據(jù)需求來確定采購量,從而避免出現(xiàn)生產(chǎn)過剩的情況,即便這意味著限量版產(chǎn)品會(huì)被迅速搶購一空。我們專注于提供四季皆宜的核心款服飾,所以大部分產(chǎn)品都可以全年銷售,不需要退出(扔掉)過季未售出的產(chǎn)品。

最后,我們一直與暴力干預(yù)計(jì)劃(Violence Intervention Program)的分支機(jī)構(gòu)H.E.A.R.T.(Helping Ease Abuse Related Trauma,幫助減輕虐待相關(guān)創(chuàng)傷組織)保持著合作關(guān)系,并通過該組織將我們的滯銷產(chǎn)品捐贈(zèng)給那些有需要的女性。2019年,我們售出了90%的產(chǎn)品,相對(duì)于60%到70%的行業(yè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)來說,這個(gè)數(shù)字可以說是非常高了。我們希望每個(gè)零售商都能認(rèn)真對(duì)待這個(gè)指標(biāo),并通過適當(dāng)方法來減少庫存積壓,或者通過捐贈(zèng)、回收等更可持續(xù)的方式讓產(chǎn)品退出市場。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Feb

時(shí)尚行業(yè)華麗服裝的背后,是巨大的資源浪費(fèi),受經(jīng)濟(jì)放緩影響,現(xiàn)在各大品牌又都在想方設(shè)法處理滯銷產(chǎn)品,這讓“時(shí)尚浪費(fèi)”問題比以往任何時(shí)候都倍受關(guān)注。

時(shí)尚品牌Cuyana認(rèn)為,就最大程度減少浪費(fèi)而言,自己在時(shí)尚行業(yè)已經(jīng)遙遙領(lǐng)先。這家位于舊金山的企業(yè)表示,公司只生產(chǎn)零售商認(rèn)為可以售出的產(chǎn)品,也由此實(shí)現(xiàn)了90%的售罄率,這在時(shí)尚行業(yè)絕對(duì)是令人羨慕的成績。而傲人的成績同樣離不開Cuyana選材精良、功能多樣且四季皆宜(可能是其最重要的賣點(diǎn))的產(chǎn)品,即便出現(xiàn)供應(yīng)過剩,產(chǎn)品也很容易放到下一季度甚至下一年度繼續(xù)銷售,從而獲得更長的銷售時(shí)間。

相較于競爭品牌,Cuyana的服裝所選面料都十分結(jié)實(shí)耐用,其中尤以僅出產(chǎn)于秘魯北部的比馬棉織物最為出色,這種耐用性也是Cuyana最為人稱道的特質(zhì)之一。據(jù)估計(jì),比馬棉面料的使用壽命較標(biāo)準(zhǔn)棉面料長50%。為了在裙子、襯衫、褲子以及更多服裝產(chǎn)品中應(yīng)用比馬棉材料,并讓顧客在日常生活中以這些產(chǎn)品為基礎(chǔ)穿搭出各種不同風(fēng)格,Cuyana投入可謂不菲。

正是基于這些思考,Cuyana推出了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的挑戰(zhàn)賽,讓顧客用兩件比馬棉服飾在100天內(nèi)傳出各種不同風(fēng)格。

近期,《財(cái)富》雜志采訪了Cuyana的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人卡拉·加利亞多和希爾帕·沙阿,討論了她們在疫情期間消除時(shí)尚浪費(fèi)的策略。

為簡明期間,以下采訪內(nèi)容做了一些編輯。

《財(cái)富》:早在新冠疫情爆發(fā)前,快時(shí)尚及其造成的浪費(fèi)就已經(jīng)成為零售業(yè)和環(huán)境保護(hù)者頭疼的大問題。過去幾年,Cuyana的服飾產(chǎn)品在市場上贏得了“中端價(jià)格、更高品質(zhì)”的美譽(yù)。在“減少時(shí)尚浪費(fèi)”方面,你們交出比同行更好的成績單,這是怎么做到的?

沙阿:Cuyana的經(jīng)營理念是“更少就是更好”,即購買經(jīng)久耐用、功能多樣的產(chǎn)品,延長使用壽命,減少浪費(fèi)。與大多數(shù)品牌不同,我們希望顧客買少一點(diǎn)、買好一點(diǎn),而不是鼓勵(lì)顧客買太多衣服。此外,我們除了生產(chǎn)和銷售,還會(huì)通過構(gòu)思一些新的穿搭來吸引顧客盡可能穿上我們的衣服,我們也會(huì)為顧客提供護(hù)理指導(dǎo),教會(huì)顧客通過精心保養(yǎng)來延長產(chǎn)品的使用壽命。

考慮到Cuyana是時(shí)尚行業(yè)的服裝零售品牌,從商業(yè)角度來看,你們鼓勵(lì)消費(fèi)者少買衣服的做法會(huì)不會(huì)有點(diǎn)“反?!保渴鞘裁创偈鼓銈儼l(fā)起了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的活動(dòng)?

加利亞多:發(fā)起這一活動(dòng)是為了推廣Cuyana主打的比馬棉纖維材料,展示其品質(zhì)、多用性及超長的使用壽命。我們會(huì)向客戶提供各種信息和建議來激發(fā)他們的靈感,使得他們能在100天內(nèi)用2件比馬棉衣服穿搭出各種不同風(fēng)格。之所以會(huì)發(fā)起這項(xiàng)挑戰(zhàn)賽,是因?yàn)槲覀兞私獾矫课幌M(fèi)者平均每年會(huì)購買68件衣服,而這些衣服平均只穿7次就會(huì)被丟掉。(浪費(fèi)如此嚴(yán)重),難怪大家會(huì)把時(shí)尚視為氣候變化的罪魁禍?zhǔn)字弧?/p>

當(dāng)然,我們還發(fā)現(xiàn),消費(fèi)者一旦購買Cuyana品牌的服飾,感受過我們產(chǎn)品的品質(zhì)和強(qiáng)大功能,就會(huì)慢慢用我們的服飾來打造自己的衣櫥,并有可能成為我們的忠實(shí)粉絲。通過持續(xù)提供經(jīng)久耐穿的高品質(zhì)服飾,我們與顧客建立了良好的關(guān)系,也成為了他們購買必備衣物的首選,對(duì)我們而言,這里蘊(yùn)藏著巨大的商機(jī)。贏得消費(fèi)者的信任,從而在必備衣物市場獲得一席之地是我們的經(jīng)營目標(biāo),而要想實(shí)現(xiàn)這一目標(biāo),我們就必須不忘初心,不斷設(shè)計(jì)出耐用的高品質(zhì)產(chǎn)品。

許多零售商在這次經(jīng)濟(jì)下行中遭受了重大打擊。與此同時(shí),消費(fèi)者可能也在重新審視自己的購物習(xí)慣,從購買更多便宜產(chǎn)品轉(zhuǎn)向購買高價(jià)值產(chǎn)品。疫情對(duì)Cuyana有何影響?

加利亞多:與許多零售商(尤其是那些已經(jīng)關(guān)閉實(shí)體店的零售商)一樣,Cuyana的銷售額也經(jīng)歷了從下滑到緩慢穩(wěn)定恢復(fù)的過程。不過,我們也發(fā)現(xiàn),在Cuyana擁有很強(qiáng)優(yōu)勢的基礎(chǔ)產(chǎn)品方面,銷售情況卻是一如既往的好?,F(xiàn)在,消費(fèi)者比以往任何時(shí)候都更愿意購買舒適,品質(zhì)又好的日常必備衣物。

此外,我們在設(shè)計(jì)產(chǎn)品時(shí)就已將產(chǎn)品的適應(yīng)性納入考量,希望為消費(fèi)者提供能夠隨著生活場景、生活方式變化而改變的產(chǎn)品。我們以創(chuàng)新的方式將產(chǎn)品的審美功能和實(shí)用功能完美地結(jié)合在一起。比如,我們有一款“三合一”包包,可以用作手抓包、錢包和腰包使用,我們的背包也配有一根可拆卸的背帶,可以作單肩包使用。這種多功能性就體現(xiàn)了我們所說的“更少就是更好”理念:提供結(jié)實(shí)耐用、功能多樣的產(chǎn)品。

展望未來,疫情過后,零售商可以采取哪些措施來遠(yuǎn)離快時(shí)尚、增加對(duì)(產(chǎn)品)重復(fù)使用、回收利用的投入?

沙阿:我們認(rèn)為,這次疫情和隨之而來的“慢生活”為我們打造更可持續(xù)的生活方式創(chuàng)造了可能。品牌方超購存貨造成浪費(fèi)是快時(shí)尚行業(yè)的大問題。為了抓住每個(gè)可能的銷售機(jī)會(huì),許多品牌都愿意超購相對(duì)便宜的存貨。當(dāng)打折也無法賣掉這些存貨時(shí),他們就會(huì)干脆把這些存貨扔掉或者燒掉。讓我們感到震驚的是,60%的成衣會(huì)在出廠一年之內(nèi)會(huì)被燒掉或者丟進(jìn)垃圾堆填區(qū)。

我們沒有采用這種模式,而是盡可能地根據(jù)需求來確定采購量,從而避免出現(xiàn)生產(chǎn)過剩的情況,即便這意味著限量版產(chǎn)品會(huì)被迅速搶購一空。我們專注于提供四季皆宜的核心款服飾,所以大部分產(chǎn)品都可以全年銷售,不需要退出(扔掉)過季未售出的產(chǎn)品。

最后,我們一直與暴力干預(yù)計(jì)劃(Violence Intervention Program)的分支機(jī)構(gòu)H.E.A.R.T.(Helping Ease Abuse Related Trauma,幫助減輕虐待相關(guān)創(chuàng)傷組織)保持著合作關(guān)系,并通過該組織將我們的滯銷產(chǎn)品捐贈(zèng)給那些有需要的女性。2019年,我們售出了90%的產(chǎn)品,相對(duì)于60%到70%的行業(yè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)來說,這個(gè)數(shù)字可以說是非常高了。我們希望每個(gè)零售商都能認(rèn)真對(duì)待這個(gè)指標(biāo),并通過適當(dāng)方法來減少庫存積壓,或者通過捐贈(zèng)、回收等更可持續(xù)的方式讓產(chǎn)品退出市場。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Feb

Fashion has a major waste problem, and this issue has become more timely than ever as brands scramble to find ways to unload their unsold items as a result of the economic slowdown.

Fashion brand Cuyana believes it is already several steps ahead of the industry when it comes to minimizing waste. The San Francisco label says it produces only what the retailer believes it can sell, resulting in a sell-through rate of 90%, an admirably high figure for the industry. To achieve this, the brand utilizes higher-quality materials to produce designs that are versatile, functional, and (perhaps most importantly) seasonless, making it easier for the brand to roll over excess product to the next quarter or even next year for a longer shelf life.

One of Cuyana's most lauded qualities is the stronger fabrics used in its clothing compared to its competitors, most especially the durable but softer Pima cotton fibers grown exclusively in northern Peru. Pima cotton is estimated to be 50% longer lasting than standard cotton, and the brand has heavily invested in incorporating Pima cotton into its clothing pieces with the intention that these dresses, shirts, pants, and more will serve as core pieces to be mixed and matched and reused repeatedly in a customer's day-to-day wardrobe.

With all of this in mind, Cuyana has launched the 100 Days, 50 Wears, 2 Pieces challenge, positing that a customer can successfully and sustainably style oneself through 100 days with just two of the Pima cotton pieces.

Fortune recently spoke with Cuyana's cofounders, Karla Gallardo and Shilpa Shah, about their strategies for eliminating fashion waste during the pandemic.

The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and brevity.

Fortune: Fast fashion, and the waste it has created, was already a huge problem in retail and for the environment well before the pandemic. Over the past several years, Cuyana has built a reputation for higher-quality clothing and accessories at mid-market prices. How does your company stand apart from other retailers in the industry when it comes to fashion waste?

Shah: Cuyana was founded around the idea of "fewer, better," a philosophy grounded in buying versatile pieces that are made to last for the benefit of increased wearability and decreased waste. Unlike most brands, Cuyana encourages customers to buy less by buying better. Furthermore, our relationship with the product doesn’t end once it’s in our customer’s hands. We ensure that our pieces are worn as much as possible by inspiring new ways to keep our core pieces in rotation, as well as encouraging our customer to extend the product’s life through care instructions and care products.

Given that Cuyana is a fashion brand and clothing retailer, it might seem a bit counterintuitive to encourage consumers to buy fewer clothes, at least from a business standpoint? What inspired the launch of Cuyana's 100 Days, 50 Wears, 2 Pieces initiative?

Gallardo: The initiative was designed to champion one of Cuyana’s hero materials—Pima cotton—for its quality, versatility, and longevity. With the right inspiration, information, and provocation from Cuyana, a customer can successfully and sustainably style themselves through 100 days with just two Pima pieces. Cuyana created this challenge because the average consumer buys 68 items of clothing per year, but wears each item only an average of seven times before it is discarded. It is no wonder why fashion is a major contributor to climate change.

We find that once a customer purchases their first Cuyana piece and experiences the quality and versatility firsthand, they are quite likely to become a loyal customer who comes back to us over time to build out their wardrobe. By consistently delivering on quality products that can be worn again and again, we are able to build a relationship with our customer and become a go-to source for essentials, which is a large opportunity. Gaining trust and, thus, overall share of wallet in the category of core essentials is always our goal, which is only achieved through staying true to our mission of designing quality products that last.

Amid the current economic downturn, retailers have taken a major hit to their sales streams. At the same time, consumers might be rethinking their purchasing habits, moving away from more cheap buys to favoring investment pieces. What has the pandemic been like for Cuyana?

Gallardo: Like many retailers, especially those who have closed their brick-and-mortar locations, Cuyana has seen a dip in sales with a slow and steady recovery. However, we have found that basics—an area in which Cuyana has a particularly strong presence—is as sought after as ever. Now more than ever, customers are looking for everyday staples that are comfortable, but elevated.

Additionally, we create products with the intent of providing pieces that will transition with our customers as their routines and lifestyles change. Our products marry beauty and functionality in innovative ways. For example, our three-in-one bag can fulfill the role of a clutch, wallet, and waist bag, and our backpack can be worn over the shoulder with a detachable strap. This type of versatility is how we define fewer, better: pieces that last by offering duality.

Looking much further down the road, past the pandemic, what steps can retailers take to ensure a greater commitment to reuse and recycling and pivoting away from fast fashion?

Shah: We think that the pandemic and subsequent slower way of living have shed light on ways we can lead more sustainable lifestyles. A huge problem in the fashion industry is the waste created by brands overbuying inventory. Many brands are incentivized to overbuy relatively inexpensive inventory in order to capture every sale possible. Once they are no longer able to offload it through discounting, they end up simply throwing it away or incinerating it. We find it shocking that through these mechanisms, 60% of garments end up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made.

Instead of participating in this practice, we buy as close to demand as possible to prevent overproduction, even if that means we sell out quickly on our limited-edition products. Because our business model is focused on core, seasonless styles, we are able to sell most products year-round, as opposed to having to exit (throw away) last season’s unsold items.

Finally, we have an ongoing partnership with H.E.A.R.T. [Helping Ease Abuse Related Trauma, part of the Violence Intervention Program], where we donate any unsold items to women in need. In 2019, we sold through 90% of the products we made, which is very high compared to the industry standard of 60% to 70%. We would encourage every retailer to take a hard look at this metric and find ways that make sense for them to reduce overstock inventory or exit products more sustainably through donation or recycling.

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