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這家零食巨頭不希望人們?cè)谝咔槠陂g“胡吃海塞”

20多年來(lái),雀巢在大部分時(shí)間里一直都在追求健康理念。

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由于基因檢測(cè)顯示身體代謝咖啡因的速度較慢,并會(huì)因此導(dǎo)致失眠問(wèn)題,雀巢公司(Nestlé)的首席執(zhí)行官馬克?施奈德戒掉了自己下午喝咖啡的習(xí)慣。在從同事那里得知雞尾酒對(duì)免疫系統(tǒng)有好處后,他每天清晨都會(huì)喝上一杯由10種配料混制而成的混合飲料。

施奈德出生于德國(guó),2017年加入雀巢,在管理這家全球最大的食品公司時(shí),他也采取了相同的方式方法,并將公司的業(yè)務(wù)重心重新定位于更健康的生活方式之上。在他的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)之下,雀巢逐漸降低了Butterfinger巧克力棒、哈根達(dá)斯冰淇淋等含糖零食在公司產(chǎn)品組合中所占的比重,同時(shí)為Stouffer’s等便利餐食“貼上了素食標(biāo)簽”。

施奈德曾經(jīng)在接受采訪時(shí)說(shuō):“我們看到,民眾重新燃起了對(duì)營(yíng)養(yǎng)與健康的興趣。我認(rèn)為這種趨勢(shì)還將持續(xù)下去,至少不會(huì)在新冠疫情后期劃上句號(hào),而且我們相信,即便在疫情結(jié)束之后,人們的這種興趣也不會(huì)消退?!?/p>

雀巢對(duì)健康生活的重視并非從施奈德開(kāi)始,事實(shí)上,在前兩任首席執(zhí)行官執(zhí)掌帥印的20年間,雀巢在大部分時(shí)間里一直都在追求健康理念。與此同時(shí),聯(lián)合利華(Unilever)和億滋(Mondelez)等競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手也在加大對(duì)健康產(chǎn)品的投入。

但是,是施奈德利用投資者(要求加快增長(zhǎng))的壓力、消費(fèi)者口味的變化及改變食品行業(yè)發(fā)展軌跡的新冠疫情,提升了雀巢的轉(zhuǎn)型速度,并且推動(dòng)雀巢完成了30年來(lái)最深刻的變革。長(zhǎng)期以來(lái),雀巢一直以好吃但不甚健康的零食和方便食品而聞名,經(jīng)過(guò)這場(chǎng)變革,雀巢進(jìn)一步降低了對(duì)此類業(yè)務(wù)的依賴。

位于列支敦士登瓦杜茲的LLB資產(chǎn)管理公司的股票與固定收益業(yè)務(wù)負(fù)責(zé)人克里斯蒂安?佐格表示:“要想同時(shí)吸引注重健康的高端消費(fèi)者與大眾市場(chǎng)消費(fèi)者,雀巢必須在兩者之間取得一種微妙的平衡?!痹摴境钟腥赋补善?。

幫手

在執(zhí)掌雀巢第一年時(shí),施奈德意外得到了激進(jìn)投資者丹?勒布的支持,后者旗下的Third Point基金持有雀巢股份,并對(duì)雀巢提出了提高利潤(rùn)的要求。作為回應(yīng),施奈德剝離了該公司在美國(guó)的糖果、冰淇淋業(yè)務(wù)及旗下的護(hù)膚品公司,轉(zhuǎn)而將維生素、膳食補(bǔ)充劑、食物過(guò)敏治療領(lǐng)域的資產(chǎn)收入囊中,并加大了對(duì)咖啡業(yè)務(wù)的投入。

近年來(lái),消費(fèi)者對(duì)更健康的生活方式越發(fā)推崇,素食產(chǎn)品打入超市貨架、社交媒體便是最明顯的例子。而在這方面,雀巢可謂是姍姍來(lái)遲,施奈德本人也承認(rèn),直到Beyond Meat等美國(guó)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手成功推出符合主流市場(chǎng)偏好的產(chǎn)品之后,雀巢才迎頭趕上,推出素食漢堡與素食雞塊。

然后就碰上了疫情。受疫情影響,許多人的飲食習(xí)慣發(fā)生了改變,施奈德自己也承認(rèn),封城伊始,人們常常會(huì)出現(xiàn)暴飲暴食的問(wèn)題。

封城期間養(yǎng)成的不良飲食習(xí)慣

施奈德說(shuō):“人們?cè)诜獬亲顕?yán)重時(shí)真的非常想要吃些安慰食品,當(dāng)然,隨著時(shí)間推移,大家也明白以后不能一直這么吃?!?/p>

對(duì)保健、免疫系統(tǒng)的關(guān)注再次激發(fā)出了人們對(duì)維生素和膳食補(bǔ)充劑的興趣,也讓雀巢健康科學(xué)部門(mén)變得越發(fā)重要了起來(lái)。出于對(duì)健康的重視,越來(lái)越多的人開(kāi)始想在家中做飯,為了利用這一趨勢(shì),雀巢上月以9.5億美元收購(gòu)了美國(guó)新鮮食品外賣(mài)公司Freshly。

雀巢還在瑞士科諾芬根村建立了一個(gè)概念工作室,這里的熱鬧景象便是施奈德努力的結(jié)果。實(shí)習(xí)生、初創(chuàng)企業(yè)、學(xué)生和科學(xué)家在這里齊聚一堂,共同烹制對(duì)人類和地球都更健康的新型乳制品及替代產(chǎn)品。

比如,科諾芬根工作室以蠶豆為原料開(kāi)發(fā)出了一種植物牛奶替代產(chǎn)品,有望提供與牛奶十分相似的口感與味道,該產(chǎn)品將于3月上市銷(xiāo)售。除此之外,這里還誕生了十幾種其他產(chǎn)品,比如植物性飲料Momentz,這種產(chǎn)品以種子和香料為原料,主要受眾是年輕的彈性素食主義者。此外還有Drop of Life,這是一種含有維生素B12的純素食液體膳食補(bǔ)充劑。即便這些產(chǎn)品最終不能全部打入超市,但它們的目標(biāo)都一樣,那就是提供健康產(chǎn)品、并將這些產(chǎn)品更快送到消費(fèi)者的手中。

不甚順利的減糖之路

不斷試錯(cuò)意味著反響不好的產(chǎn)品會(huì)被迅速下架。以減糖技術(shù)為例,該技術(shù)能夠在不影響甜度的情況下,僅通過(guò)改變糖結(jié)構(gòu)實(shí)現(xiàn)健康減糖30%。Milkybar Wowsomes巧克力棒是雀巢使用該技術(shù)開(kāi)發(fā)出的首款產(chǎn)品,由于無(wú)法提供與全糖巧克力相當(dāng)?shù)臐庥艨诟?,該產(chǎn)品上市僅僅一年之后便宣告停產(chǎn),不過(guò)雀巢并未放棄對(duì)減糖技術(shù)的研究。

施奈德表示,這種轉(zhuǎn)變并不等于將所有不健康的因素都從我們的生活中剔除出去,而是要更加注意我們的消費(fèi)方式。

他說(shuō):“推崇健康食品不等于要過(guò)苦行僧一般的生活,而是要在享用不那么健康的食品時(shí)注意控制份量和類別,不能不負(fù)責(zé)任地胡吃海塞,要讓自己可以做出明智的決定?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:梁宇

審校:夏林

由于基因檢測(cè)顯示身體代謝咖啡因的速度較慢,并會(huì)因此導(dǎo)致失眠問(wèn)題,雀巢公司(Nestlé)的首席執(zhí)行官馬克?施奈德戒掉了自己下午喝咖啡的習(xí)慣。在從同事那里得知雞尾酒對(duì)免疫系統(tǒng)有好處后,他每天清晨都會(huì)喝上一杯由10種配料混制而成的混合飲料。

施奈德出生于德國(guó),2017年加入雀巢,在管理這家全球最大的食品公司時(shí),他也采取了相同的方式方法,并將公司的業(yè)務(wù)重心重新定位于更健康的生活方式之上。在他的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)之下,雀巢逐漸降低了Butterfinger巧克力棒、哈根達(dá)斯冰淇淋等含糖零食在公司產(chǎn)品組合中所占的比重,同時(shí)為Stouffer’s等便利餐食“貼上了素食標(biāo)簽”。

施奈德曾經(jīng)在接受采訪時(shí)說(shuō):“我們看到,民眾重新燃起了對(duì)營(yíng)養(yǎng)與健康的興趣。我認(rèn)為這種趨勢(shì)還將持續(xù)下去,至少不會(huì)在新冠疫情后期劃上句號(hào),而且我們相信,即便在疫情結(jié)束之后,人們的這種興趣也不會(huì)消退?!?/p>

雀巢對(duì)健康生活的重視并非從施奈德開(kāi)始,事實(shí)上,在前兩任首席執(zhí)行官執(zhí)掌帥印的20年間,雀巢在大部分時(shí)間里一直都在追求健康理念。與此同時(shí),聯(lián)合利華(Unilever)和億滋(Mondelez)等競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手也在加大對(duì)健康產(chǎn)品的投入。

但是,是施奈德利用投資者(要求加快增長(zhǎng))的壓力、消費(fèi)者口味的變化及改變食品行業(yè)發(fā)展軌跡的新冠疫情,提升了雀巢的轉(zhuǎn)型速度,并且推動(dòng)雀巢完成了30年來(lái)最深刻的變革。長(zhǎng)期以來(lái),雀巢一直以好吃但不甚健康的零食和方便食品而聞名,經(jīng)過(guò)這場(chǎng)變革,雀巢進(jìn)一步降低了對(duì)此類業(yè)務(wù)的依賴。

位于列支敦士登瓦杜茲的LLB資產(chǎn)管理公司的股票與固定收益業(yè)務(wù)負(fù)責(zé)人克里斯蒂安?佐格表示:“要想同時(shí)吸引注重健康的高端消費(fèi)者與大眾市場(chǎng)消費(fèi)者,雀巢必須在兩者之間取得一種微妙的平衡?!痹摴境钟腥赋补善?。

幫手

在執(zhí)掌雀巢第一年時(shí),施奈德意外得到了激進(jìn)投資者丹?勒布的支持,后者旗下的Third Point基金持有雀巢股份,并對(duì)雀巢提出了提高利潤(rùn)的要求。作為回應(yīng),施奈德剝離了該公司在美國(guó)的糖果、冰淇淋業(yè)務(wù)及旗下的護(hù)膚品公司,轉(zhuǎn)而將維生素、膳食補(bǔ)充劑、食物過(guò)敏治療領(lǐng)域的資產(chǎn)收入囊中,并加大了對(duì)咖啡業(yè)務(wù)的投入。

近年來(lái),消費(fèi)者對(duì)更健康的生活方式越發(fā)推崇,素食產(chǎn)品打入超市貨架、社交媒體便是最明顯的例子。而在這方面,雀巢可謂是姍姍來(lái)遲,施奈德本人也承認(rèn),直到Beyond Meat等美國(guó)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手成功推出符合主流市場(chǎng)偏好的產(chǎn)品之后,雀巢才迎頭趕上,推出素食漢堡與素食雞塊。

然后就碰上了疫情。受疫情影響,許多人的飲食習(xí)慣發(fā)生了改變,施奈德自己也承認(rèn),封城伊始,人們常常會(huì)出現(xiàn)暴飲暴食的問(wèn)題。

封城期間養(yǎng)成的不良飲食習(xí)慣

施奈德說(shuō):“人們?cè)诜獬亲顕?yán)重時(shí)真的非常想要吃些安慰食品,當(dāng)然,隨著時(shí)間推移,大家也明白以后不能一直這么吃?!?/p>

對(duì)保健、免疫系統(tǒng)的關(guān)注再次激發(fā)出了人們對(duì)維生素和膳食補(bǔ)充劑的興趣,也讓雀巢健康科學(xué)部門(mén)變得越發(fā)重要了起來(lái)。出于對(duì)健康的重視,越來(lái)越多的人開(kāi)始想在家中做飯,為了利用這一趨勢(shì),雀巢上月以9.5億美元收購(gòu)了美國(guó)新鮮食品外賣(mài)公司Freshly。

雀巢還在瑞士科諾芬根村建立了一個(gè)概念工作室,這里的熱鬧景象便是施奈德努力的結(jié)果。實(shí)習(xí)生、初創(chuàng)企業(yè)、學(xué)生和科學(xué)家在這里齊聚一堂,共同烹制對(duì)人類和地球都更健康的新型乳制品及替代產(chǎn)品。

比如,科諾芬根工作室以蠶豆為原料開(kāi)發(fā)出了一種植物牛奶替代產(chǎn)品,有望提供與牛奶十分相似的口感與味道,該產(chǎn)品將于3月上市銷(xiāo)售。除此之外,這里還誕生了十幾種其他產(chǎn)品,比如植物性飲料Momentz,這種產(chǎn)品以種子和香料為原料,主要受眾是年輕的彈性素食主義者。此外還有Drop of Life,這是一種含有維生素B12的純素食液體膳食補(bǔ)充劑。即便這些產(chǎn)品最終不能全部打入超市,但它們的目標(biāo)都一樣,那就是提供健康產(chǎn)品、并將這些產(chǎn)品更快送到消費(fèi)者的手中。

不甚順利的減糖之路

不斷試錯(cuò)意味著反響不好的產(chǎn)品會(huì)被迅速下架。以減糖技術(shù)為例,該技術(shù)能夠在不影響甜度的情況下,僅通過(guò)改變糖結(jié)構(gòu)實(shí)現(xiàn)健康減糖30%。Milkybar Wowsomes巧克力棒是雀巢使用該技術(shù)開(kāi)發(fā)出的首款產(chǎn)品,由于無(wú)法提供與全糖巧克力相當(dāng)?shù)臐庥艨诟校摦a(chǎn)品上市僅僅一年之后便宣告停產(chǎn),不過(guò)雀巢并未放棄對(duì)減糖技術(shù)的研究。

施奈德表示,這種轉(zhuǎn)變并不等于將所有不健康的因素都從我們的生活中剔除出去,而是要更加注意我們的消費(fèi)方式。

他說(shuō):“推崇健康食品不等于要過(guò)苦行僧一般的生活,而是要在享用不那么健康的食品時(shí)注意控制份量和類別,不能不負(fù)責(zé)任地胡吃海塞,要讓自己可以做出明智的決定?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:梁宇

審校:夏林

Nestlé Chief Executive Officer Mark Schneider skips his afternoon Nespresso, as genetic tests revealed his body processes caffeine only slowly, depriving him of sleep. He likes to start his mornings with a smoothie blitzed together from 10 ingredients after colleagues convinced him of the cocktail’s benefits to the immune system.

The German-born Schneider has taken the same methodical approach to refocusing the world’s largest food company on cleaner living. Since joining Nestlé in 2017, he’s shifted the portfolio away from sugary snacks including Butterfinger chocolate bars and H?agen-Dazs ice cream, while giving convenience meals like Stouffer’s a vegan makeover.

“There is a renewed interest in health and nutrition,” Schneider said in an interview. “I think this is here to stay. Certainly throughout the later stages of this pandemic, and, we believe, also beyond that.”

Schneider can’t claim to have invented the company’s healthy push. It’s a concept Nestlé has pursued for the better part of two decades under the stewardship of his two predecessors. And some rivals like Unilever and Mondelez are also remodeling their portfolios around healthier options.

But Schneider has accelerated the transformation with the deepest overhaul in 30 years, harnessing developments from investor pressure for faster growth to changing consumer tastes to the COVID-19 pandemic that have changed the trajectory of the food industry. It’s a shift that’s moved the Swiss company ever further away from the business that long defined Nestlé: snacks and convenience foods that are fun and easy to eat but not necessarily healthy.

“Nestlé will have to perform a tightrope walk in the food segment as it balances appealing to both the health-conscious premium and the mass-market audience,” said Christian Zogg, head of equity and fixed income at LLB Asset Management in Vaduz, Liechtenstein, which holds Nestlé shares.

Helping hand

In his first year at the helm, Schneider got unlikely support from activist investor Dan Loeb, whose Third Point fund had built a stake in the company and demanded Nestlé boost profit. Schneider responded by off-loading the U.S. confectionery and ice cream businesses as well as the skin-care subsidiary. In their stead he brought on assets such as vitamins, supplements, and food allergy treatments and sharpened the focus on coffee.

The consumer trend toward a healthier lifestyle has accelerated, most notably with vegan products infiltrating supermarket aisles and social media accounts. Nestlé was arguably late to the party. The company caught up with a vengeance, as Schneider acknowledges, only after U.S. rivals like Beyond Meat managed to make such offerings appealing to the mainstream, and now offers plant-based burgers and chicken nuggets.

And then, of course, there’s the pandemic, which has reshaped the way many people eat and drink—initially often too much, as Schneider himself concedes.

Lockdown cravings

“People really had a craving for comfort food during the hardest part of the lockdown, and now of course over time, they see that this would not be the new standard diet,” he said.

The attention to well-being and the immune system has revived interest in vitamins and supplements, poised to make the company’s health science unit more important. It’s also made cooking at home a more attractive proposition, a trend Nestlé is seeking to harness with its purchase last month of U.S. meal-subscription company Freshly, in a deal that values the business at $950 million.

Schneider’s drive is on display in Nestlé’s Concept Studio in the Swiss village of Konolfingen. Here, interns, startups, students, and scientists mingle to cook new dairy and alternative products that are both healthier for humans and the planet.

A plant-based milk alternative using fava beans, hatched in Konolfingen, promises close similarity to cow’s milk in taste and texture and will hit shelves in March. A dozen other ideas have been developed here, like Momentz, another plant-based drink using seeds and spices aimed at young flexitarians, or Drop of Life, a vegan liquid food supplement containing vitamin B12. Even if they don’t all end up in supermarkets, they share the goal of offering healthy products and getting them to consumers more quickly.

Sugar flop

The trial-and-error approach also means that some products get swiftly pulled off shelves again if they flop. Take Nestlé’s first attempt at a sugar-reducing technology that hollowed out the molecules in order to cut sugar by about a third without compromising the desired sweetness. The resulting Milkybar Wowsomes chocolate was discontinued after about a year because it didn’t offer the same creaminess of full-sugar chocolate, though the company has not given up on sugar-reduction research.

Schneider said the shift isn’t about dropping everything considered unhealthy, but rather about a more conscious approach to the way we consume.

“If you’re committed to healthy food, it doesn’t mean that you have to abstain from everything that is indulgent,” Schneider said. “It’s important that these more indulgent products are being consumed responsibly, through the appropriate portion size and the labeling, putting you in a position to make an informed decision.”

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