零售商開始設(shè)立“中性”玩具售賣區(qū)
《財(cái)富》編輯部
2021-11-27
假日購物季已經(jīng)到了。無論是上實(shí)體店，還是在網(wǎng)上購物，那些購物清單基本空空如也的父母必然會(huì)看到，一些公司正在全力以赴地上架不分男女的服飾和玩具。然而，這一改變背后的原因是什么呢？
這個(gè)話題在10月份引發(fā)了《財(cái)富》雜志高級(jí)主編柯問思的注意，當(dāng)時(shí)加州通過了要求大型零售商設(shè)立中性玩具售賣區(qū)的法律。作為《財(cái)富》Reinvent播客聯(lián)合主持人，柯問思說：“因此最終，卡車不會(huì)只是男童區(qū)的專屬玩具，而玩偶也不會(huì)只是女童區(qū)的專享?！?/p>
柯問思還表示，她對(duì)于這個(gè)話題可謂是感同身受。她說：“我有一個(gè)快兩歲的女兒，我們對(duì)于性別固化特別在意，而且對(duì)于她玩的玩具類型也是毫不在意。我女兒對(duì)卡車和轎車的喜愛程度不亞于玩偶。然而，經(jīng)常令我感到驚訝的是，當(dāng)我給她穿上藍(lán)色外套或戴上藍(lán)色帽子時(shí)，人們會(huì)以為她是一個(gè)男孩。你確實(shí)會(huì)有一種與這些社會(huì)規(guī)范做斗爭(zhēng)的感覺，而且這些規(guī)范基本無法動(dòng)搖。”
長(zhǎng)期以來，粉色一直都是美泰（Mattel）標(biāo)志性芭比品牌最中意的顏色，但這一點(diǎn)正在發(fā)生變化。一個(gè)名為Creatable World的新系列玩偶便主打中性服飾和顏色，并擁有更多的膚色和發(fā)型。
這些變化背后的商業(yè)邏輯是什么？《財(cái)富》高級(jí)主編、Reinvent播客聯(lián)合主持人葛繼甫說：“零售商與消費(fèi)品制造商所從事的工作就是感知社會(huì)現(xiàn)狀和趨勢(shì)。我對(duì)他們目前所做的事情及其效果如何十分感興趣?！?/p>
羅布·加勒特·史密斯擔(dān)任零售高管已有30年的時(shí)間，曾供職于耐克、梅西百貨（Macy's）和李維斯（Levi Strauss）等多個(gè)品牌。2018年，他成立了無性別差異店面和社區(qū)The Phluid Project。
史密斯說：“我與大企業(yè)交談的越多，他們就越意識(shí)到包容性將成為未來的一部分，而且也是長(zhǎng)期維系其業(yè)務(wù)可持續(xù)性的一種方式。”
在《財(cái)富》這期Reinvent播客中，史密斯與柯問思和葛繼甫探討了中性化產(chǎn)品和零售的未來，這是一檔教人們?nèi)绾卧谝粋€(gè)顛倒的世界中通過努力拼搏發(fā)展壯大的播客節(jié)目。參與這期播客的嘉賓還有美泰芭比娃娃和時(shí)尚娃娃高級(jí)副總裁兼全球設(shè)計(jì)主管金·卡爾蒙、NPD集團(tuán)美國玩具業(yè)務(wù)副總裁兼行業(yè)顧問朱莉·萊納特，以及A&F（Abercrombie & Fitch）高級(jí)副總裁兼GH（Gilly Hicks）品牌總經(jīng)理金柏莉·多爾德。（財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)）
譯者：馮豐
審校：夏林
假日購物季已經(jīng)到了。無論是上實(shí)體店，還是在網(wǎng)上購物，那些購物清單基本空空如也的父母必然會(huì)看到，一些公司正在全力以赴地上架不分男女的服飾和玩具。然而，這一改變背后的原因是什么呢？
這個(gè)話題在10月份引發(fā)了《財(cái)富》雜志高級(jí)主編柯問思的注意，當(dāng)時(shí)加州通過了要求大型零售商設(shè)立中性玩具售賣區(qū)的法律。作為《財(cái)富》Reinvent播客聯(lián)合主持人，柯問思說：“因此最終，卡車不會(huì)只是男童區(qū)的專屬玩具，而玩偶也不會(huì)只是女童區(qū)的專享?！?/p>
柯問思還表示，她對(duì)于這個(gè)話題可謂是感同身受。她說：“我有一個(gè)快兩歲的女兒，我們對(duì)于性別固化特別在意，而且對(duì)于她玩的玩具類型也是毫不在意。我女兒對(duì)卡車和轎車的喜愛程度不亞于玩偶。然而，經(jīng)常令我感到驚訝的是，當(dāng)我給她穿上藍(lán)色外套或戴上藍(lán)色帽子時(shí)，人們會(huì)以為她是一個(gè)男孩。你確實(shí)會(huì)有一種與這些社會(huì)規(guī)范做斗爭(zhēng)的感覺，而且這些規(guī)范基本無法動(dòng)搖?！?/p>
長(zhǎng)期以來，粉色一直都是美泰（Mattel）標(biāo)志性芭比品牌最中意的顏色，但這一點(diǎn)正在發(fā)生變化。一個(gè)名為Creatable World的新系列玩偶便主打中性服飾和顏色，并擁有更多的膚色和發(fā)型。
這些變化背后的商業(yè)邏輯是什么？《財(cái)富》高級(jí)主編、Reinvent播客聯(lián)合主持人葛繼甫說：“零售商與消費(fèi)品制造商所從事的工作就是感知社會(huì)現(xiàn)狀和趨勢(shì)。我對(duì)他們目前所做的事情及其效果如何十分感興趣?！?/p>
羅布·加勒特·史密斯擔(dān)任零售高管已有30年的時(shí)間，曾供職于耐克、梅西百貨（Macy's）和李維斯（Levi Strauss）等多個(gè)品牌。2018年，他成立了無性別差異店面和社區(qū)The Phluid Project。
史密斯說：“我與大企業(yè)交談的越多，他們就越意識(shí)到包容性將成為未來的一部分，而且也是長(zhǎng)期維系其業(yè)務(wù)可持續(xù)性的一種方式?！?/p>
在《財(cái)富》這期Reinvent播客中，史密斯與柯問思和葛繼甫探討了中性化產(chǎn)品和零售的未來，這是一檔教人們?nèi)绾卧谝粋€(gè)顛倒的世界中通過努力拼搏發(fā)展壯大的播客節(jié)目。參與這期播客的嘉賓還有美泰芭比娃娃和時(shí)尚娃娃高級(jí)副總裁兼全球設(shè)計(jì)主管金·卡爾蒙、NPD集團(tuán)美國玩具業(yè)務(wù)副總裁兼行業(yè)顧問朱莉·萊納特，以及A&F（Abercrombie & Fitch）高級(jí)副總裁兼GH（Gilly Hicks）品牌總經(jīng)理金柏莉·多爾德。（財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)）
譯者：馮豐
審校：夏林
The holiday shopping season has arrived. While out in stores or, of course, shopping online, parents, aunts, uncles, and anybody else who has littles on their list are sure to see that some companies are going all-in on gender-inclusive clothing and toys. But what's the motivation behind this shift?
The topic caught Fortune senior editor Beth Kowitt's attention in October, when California passed a law that would require large retailers to have gender-neutral toy sections. "So essentially," says Kowitt, cohost of Fortune's Reinvent podcast, "you will no longer just find trucks in the boys' section and dolls in the girls' section."
Kowitt adds that the topic is also a personal one for her: "I have an almost two-year-old daughter," she says. "We've tried to be really conscious of gender stereotypes and to be agnostic when it comes to the type of toys she plays with. She loves her trucks and cars just as much as she loves her baby doll. But it's amazing to me how often, when I put her in a blue coat or a blue hat, that people think she's a boy. You really do feel like you're fighting against these societal norms that are just so hard to shake."
Pink has long been the color most attached to Mattel's iconic Barbie brand. But that's changing. A new line of the dolls, Creatable World, features gender-neutral clothing and colors, as well as more skin tones and hairstyles.
As for the business logic behind these changes? "Retailers and manufacturers of consumer goods are in the business of sensing what the society is doing and where it's moving," says Geoff Colvin, Fortune senior editor and cohost of Reinvent. "I'm interested to learn what they're doing and how well it's working."
Rob Garrett Smith spent 30 years as a retail executive at brands including Nike, Macy's, and Levi Strauss. In 2018, he founded The Phluid Project, a gender-free store and community.
"The more I speak to big businesses, they realize that being inclusive is being part of the future and is the way that their business will be sustainable in the long run," Smith says.
Smith joins Kowitt and Colvin on this episode of Fortune's Reinvent, a podcast about fighting to thrive in a world turned upside-down, to discuss gender-neutral products and the future of retail. Also on the show are Kim Culmone, SVP and global head of design for Barbie and fashion dolls at Mattel; Juli Lennett, VP and industry advisor for The NPD Group's U.S. toys division; and Kimberly Dolder, SVP and general manager of Gilly Hicks at Abercrombie & Fitch. Listen to the full episode below.
財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)所刊載內(nèi)容之知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)為財(cái)富媒體知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)有限公司及/或相關(guān)權(quán)利人專屬所有或持有。未經(jīng)許可，禁止進(jìn)行轉(zhuǎn)載、摘編、復(fù)制及建立鏡像等任何使用。
