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新冠疫情期間,美國人的午餐都吃些什么?

人們認(rèn)為午餐乏味并不是因?yàn)槭澄锉旧?,而是環(huán)境。

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我超愛鷹嘴豆泥,所以過去兩年我?guī)缀趺刻煳绮投忌俨涣怂?。鷹嘴豆泥必不可少,在Zoom上開視頻會(huì)議的間隙,每次我去廚房找吃的,都會(huì)帶一些鷹嘴豆泥。我有時(shí)候會(huì)搭配嫩胡蘿卜,心情好的時(shí)候會(huì)切一根黃瓜。偶爾會(huì)把鷹嘴豆泥抹在皮塔餅或面包上。有時(shí)候甚至?xí)蒙鬃又苯邮秤谩?/p>

在居家辦公期間,我吃了大量鷹嘴豆泥,以至于我現(xiàn)在都不愿意在冰箱里看到裝它的盒子。我厭倦了鷹嘴豆泥,無論從字面意思還是隱含意義來理解都是如此,因?yàn)樗偸悄軌蜃屛一叵肫鹦鹿谝咔槠陂g生活的單調(diào)無聊。

我或其他人似乎在晚餐方面并不存在鷹嘴豆泥問題。過去兩年,空氣炸鍋在美國暢銷。我們做過TikTok上的網(wǎng)紅美食羊乳酪意面。我們照著艾莉森·羅曼的做法,把紅蔥頭切成小碎丁。我們甚至天真地購買了大袋豆子,在水里泡上一夜。

但咨詢公司艾睿鉑(AlixPartners)的總經(jīng)理大衛(wèi)·加菲爾德表示,我們?cè)跍?zhǔn)備晚餐時(shí)表現(xiàn)出來的這種對(duì)烹飪的熱情,并沒有出現(xiàn)在午餐當(dāng)中。咨詢公司科爾尼(Kearney)的全球消費(fèi)者業(yè)務(wù)負(fù)責(zé)人格雷格·波特利指出:“午餐讓人身心俱疲。對(duì)許多人來說,午餐相對(duì)乏味。”

新冠疫情初期,消費(fèi)者確實(shí)試圖給午餐帶來一些改變。波特利稱,在經(jīng)濟(jì)受到實(shí)際影響之前,午餐外賣有所增加。他說:“你不可能每天都在DoorDash上訂餐?!?/p>

有些人午餐吃了更多冷凍食品,或者嘗試“混合餐”,比如購買烤雞等預(yù)先烹飪的食材,與家中自制的食材混和在一起。辦公一族首選的沙拉,在居家辦公期間失寵。波特利表示,Sweetgreen和Chopt等優(yōu)秀的連鎖餐廳的發(fā)展,提高了我們的預(yù)期,當(dāng)我們想用綠葉菜自制沙拉時(shí),如果沒有扎塔爾面包碎和烤洋姜等配料,就會(huì)感到失望。

食品行業(yè)咨詢公司哈特曼集團(tuán)(Hartman Group)的雪萊·巴蘭可稱,她發(fā)現(xiàn)了一種新現(xiàn)象:我們變得更能接受剩菜。接近三分之一的菜肴使用了上一餐的食材。她還發(fā)現(xiàn),越來越多的人會(huì)有意額外訂餐,以便在下一餐中食用。

與此同時(shí),有越來越多的人選擇通過不吃午餐來解決午餐問題。巴蘭可表示,2019年春季和2020年春季,美國成年人定期吃午餐的比例為70%左右。但到2021年,這個(gè)比例下降到62%。對(duì)有些人來說,吃午餐是一件麻煩事,所以我們寧愿不吃。

這并不是說吃午餐在新冠疫情之前多么令人向往。在新冠疫情爆發(fā)之前,我們中午最常食用的是不起眼的三明治,這也是我們過去兩年最常吃的午餐。事實(shí)上,市場研究公司NPD集團(tuán)(NPD Group)的大衛(wèi)·波塔拉廷表示,30年來三明治一直都排在美國人午餐的第一位。

發(fā)生變化的是我們吃三明治的場所。巴蘭可指出,2019年夏季,56%的人在家吃午餐。到新冠疫情初期,該比例提高到81%,即使到2021年的夏天,依舊有65%。

事實(shí)上,數(shù)據(jù)顯示,人們認(rèn)為午餐乏味并不是因?yàn)槭澄锉旧?,而是環(huán)境。正餐正在復(fù)興,因?yàn)榕c新冠疫情之前相比,我們更有可能與家人一起用晚餐。之所以午餐被認(rèn)為可有可無,是因?yàn)槲覀兏锌赡塥?dú)自用餐,沒有同事陪伴。即便是一份難吃的辦公桌沙拉,在與同事一起用餐的時(shí)候也不會(huì)覺得那么難吃。

有專家認(rèn)為,即使新冠疫情結(jié)束,消費(fèi)者在某種程度上將繼續(xù)在家吃午餐;一旦一種全新的行為持續(xù)很長時(shí)間,就很難改變。然而波特利表示,隨著越來越多的員工零星重返辦公室,他們可能會(huì)稍微放縱一下,不再吃價(jià)格低廉的比薩或三明治。

他說:“午餐一直被忽視。但實(shí)際上,午餐的體驗(yàn)非常重要?,F(xiàn)在我們已經(jīng)意識(shí)到這一點(diǎn)?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

翻譯:劉進(jìn)龍

審校:汪皓

我超愛鷹嘴豆泥,所以過去兩年我?guī)缀趺刻煳绮投忌俨涣怂?。鷹嘴豆泥必不可少,在Zoom上開視頻會(huì)議的間隙,每次我去廚房找吃的,都會(huì)帶一些鷹嘴豆泥。我有時(shí)候會(huì)搭配嫩胡蘿卜,心情好的時(shí)候會(huì)切一根黃瓜。偶爾會(huì)把鷹嘴豆泥抹在皮塔餅或面包上。有時(shí)候甚至?xí)蒙鬃又苯邮秤谩?/p>

在居家辦公期間,我吃了大量鷹嘴豆泥,以至于我現(xiàn)在都不愿意在冰箱里看到裝它的盒子。我厭倦了鷹嘴豆泥,無論從字面意思還是隱含意義來理解都是如此,因?yàn)樗偸悄軌蜃屛一叵肫鹦鹿谝咔槠陂g生活的單調(diào)無聊。

我或其他人似乎在晚餐方面并不存在鷹嘴豆泥問題。過去兩年,空氣炸鍋在美國暢銷。我們做過TikTok上的網(wǎng)紅美食羊乳酪意面。我們照著艾莉森·羅曼的做法,把紅蔥頭切成小碎丁。我們甚至天真地購買了大袋豆子,在水里泡上一夜。

但咨詢公司艾睿鉑(AlixPartners)的總經(jīng)理大衛(wèi)·加菲爾德表示,我們?cè)跍?zhǔn)備晚餐時(shí)表現(xiàn)出來的這種對(duì)烹飪的熱情,并沒有出現(xiàn)在午餐當(dāng)中。咨詢公司科爾尼(Kearney)的全球消費(fèi)者業(yè)務(wù)負(fù)責(zé)人格雷格·波特利指出:“午餐讓人身心俱疲。對(duì)許多人來說,午餐相對(duì)乏味?!?/p>

新冠疫情初期,消費(fèi)者確實(shí)試圖給午餐帶來一些改變。波特利稱,在經(jīng)濟(jì)受到實(shí)際影響之前,午餐外賣有所增加。他說:“你不可能每天都在DoorDash上訂餐?!?/p>

有些人午餐吃了更多冷凍食品,或者嘗試“混合餐”,比如購買烤雞等預(yù)先烹飪的食材,與家中自制的食材混和在一起。辦公一族首選的沙拉,在居家辦公期間失寵。波特利表示,Sweetgreen和Chopt等優(yōu)秀的連鎖餐廳的發(fā)展,提高了我們的預(yù)期,當(dāng)我們想用綠葉菜自制沙拉時(shí),如果沒有扎塔爾面包碎和烤洋姜等配料,就會(huì)感到失望。

食品行業(yè)咨詢公司哈特曼集團(tuán)(Hartman Group)的雪萊·巴蘭可稱,她發(fā)現(xiàn)了一種新現(xiàn)象:我們變得更能接受剩菜。接近三分之一的菜肴使用了上一餐的食材。她還發(fā)現(xiàn),越來越多的人會(huì)有意額外訂餐,以便在下一餐中食用。

與此同時(shí),有越來越多的人選擇通過不吃午餐來解決午餐問題。巴蘭可表示,2019年春季和2020年春季,美國成年人定期吃午餐的比例為70%左右。但到2021年,這個(gè)比例下降到62%。對(duì)有些人來說,吃午餐是一件麻煩事,所以我們寧愿不吃。

這并不是說吃午餐在新冠疫情之前多么令人向往。在新冠疫情爆發(fā)之前,我們中午最常食用的是不起眼的三明治,這也是我們過去兩年最常吃的午餐。事實(shí)上,市場研究公司NPD集團(tuán)(NPD Group)的大衛(wèi)·波塔拉廷表示,30年來三明治一直都排在美國人午餐的第一位。

發(fā)生變化的是我們吃三明治的場所。巴蘭可指出,2019年夏季,56%的人在家吃午餐。到新冠疫情初期,該比例提高到81%,即使到2021年的夏天,依舊有65%。

事實(shí)上,數(shù)據(jù)顯示,人們認(rèn)為午餐乏味并不是因?yàn)槭澄锉旧?,而是環(huán)境。正餐正在復(fù)興,因?yàn)榕c新冠疫情之前相比,我們更有可能與家人一起用晚餐。之所以午餐被認(rèn)為可有可無,是因?yàn)槲覀兏锌赡塥?dú)自用餐,沒有同事陪伴。即便是一份難吃的辦公桌沙拉,在與同事一起用餐的時(shí)候也不會(huì)覺得那么難吃。

有專家認(rèn)為,即使新冠疫情結(jié)束,消費(fèi)者在某種程度上將繼續(xù)在家吃午餐;一旦一種全新的行為持續(xù)很長時(shí)間,就很難改變。然而波特利表示,隨著越來越多的員工零星重返辦公室,他們可能會(huì)稍微放縱一下,不再吃價(jià)格低廉的比薩或三明治。

他說:“午餐一直被忽視。但實(shí)際上,午餐的體驗(yàn)非常重要。現(xiàn)在我們已經(jīng)意識(shí)到這一點(diǎn)?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))

翻譯:劉進(jìn)龍

審校:汪皓

I loved hummus so much that I ate it nearly every day for lunch for the past two years. It was my default, the thing I always returned to when I was scrounging around in my kitchen between Zooms. Sometimes I ate it with baby carrots, or, if I was really feeling ambitious, I’d cut up a cucumber. Occasionally I’d spread it on pita or bread. I’ll even admit to eating it straight off the spoon from time to time.

I have eaten so much hummus while working from home that, now, I can barely stand to look at the tub of it sitting in my fridge. I am tired of hummus in the literal sense, but also in the metaphorical: It’s a constant reminder of the monotony of my pandemic life.

The Hummus Problem is not one I—or others—seem to have had at dinner. During the past two years, Americans bought air fryers with abandon. We made TikTok feta pasta. We chopped shallots into a million little pieces at Alison Roman’s behest. We were even naive enough to order giant bags of beans and soak them overnight.

And yet this newfound passion for cooking that we harnessed to whip up dinner has been nowhere to be seen at lunch, says David Garfield, a managing director at consultancy AlixPartners. “Lunch is a burnout,” says Greg Portell, who leads the global consumer practice at advisory firm Kearney. “It’s become a relatively boring meal for people.”

In the early days of the pandemic, consumers did try to shake things up with their noon meal. Portell says there was a rise in lunchtime takeout before the economic reality set in. “You can’t live on DoorDash every day,” he notes.

Some of us ate more frozen food at lunch or dabbled in “blended meals”—purchasing a premade element like a rotisserie chicken and adding our own homemade sides. Salad, an office worker go-to, was largely a nonstarter once those same employees were working from home. Portell points to the growth of fancy chains like Sweetgreen and Chopt, which raised expectations to the point where we just feel disappointment if we attempt to make our own leafy greens without the benefit of fun add-ins like za’atar breadcrumbs and roasted sunchokes.

Shelley Balanko of food industry tracker Hartman Group says she’s noticed a new phenomenon around leftovers: We’ve embraced them like never before. Nearly a third of all meals now involve a component from a previous one. She’s even seeing a rise in diners intentionally ordering extra food from restaurants to eat later.

Meanwhile, there’s a growing contingent that’s solving the lunch problem by simply skipping it altogether. Balanko says the proportion of U.S. adults who reported eating regular lunches in the spring of 2019 and the spring of 2020 was around 70%. But by 2021, that percentage had fallen to 62%. Lunch is such a struggle for some of us that we’d rather not deal with it at all.

It’s not as though lunch was super thrilling before the pandemic either. The humble sandwich was the No. 1 thing we ate at midday pre-COVID, and it’s the No. 1 thing we’ve been eating for the past two years. In fact, says David Portalatin of market research firm NPD Group, the sandwich tops the list of things we’ve eaten for lunch for 30 years.

The big thing that’s changed is where we’re eating said sandwich. In the summer of 2019, 56% of lunches were consumed at home, says Balanko. In the early days of the pandemic, that number jumped to 81%. Even last summer, 65% of lunches were still being eaten at home.

In reality, the data shows that lunch boredom comes not from the food but the setting. Dinner is having a renaissance because we’re now more likely to eat it with our families than we were pre-pandemic. Lunch is a dud because we’re more likely to eat it alone, without our colleagues. Even a sad desk salad is a little bit less sad when you’re surrounded by your work friends.

Some experts think that even once the pandemic subsides, consumers will continue to source their lunches from home to some degree; once we adopt a new behavior over a long period of time, it’s hard for us to let it go. But Portell says that as more workers return to the office sporadically, they’re likely to indulge a bit and perhaps splurge beyond that cheap slice of pizza or sandwich.

“Lunch has always been an overlooked meal,” he says. “But the experience of lunch is actually important. We’ve realized that now.”

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