新冠疫情時(shí)期的奢侈品熱潮已經(jīng)褪去,該行業(yè)的知名企業(yè)出現(xiàn)銷售下滑。
最新遭受損失的是古馳(Gucci)和圣羅蘭(Yves Saint Laurent)的法國(guó)母公司開云集團(tuán)(Kering)。
在開云集團(tuán)公布今年第一季度財(cái)報(bào)的前一個(gè)月,該公司罕見(jiàn)地發(fā)布了一份悲觀的報(bào)告,稱其銷售額將比2023年下降約10%。如果放大來(lái)看,情況就會(huì)更糟,開云集團(tuán)旗下最大的品牌古馳在今年第一季度的收入可能同比下降20%。
對(duì)于該公司來(lái)說(shuō),跌幅巨大,但考慮到這家法國(guó)奢侈品零售商今年的艱難處境,這再正常不過(guò)了。
開云集團(tuán)表示,奢侈品需求停滯,尤其是在亞太地區(qū),這是造成銷售額意想不到的下降的原因。
奢侈品需求放緩已引起廣泛討論,而且這一趨勢(shì)的案例也層出不窮。中國(guó)消費(fèi)者需求放緩一直是所有奢侈品牌面臨的共同問(wèn)題。盡管中國(guó)消費(fèi)出現(xiàn)了復(fù)蘇的初步跡象,但結(jié)果并不盡如人意。
撇開亞洲的奢侈品需求不談,包括法國(guó)企業(yè)集團(tuán)路威酩軒集團(tuán)(LVMH)和手袋制造商愛(ài)馬仕(Hermes)在內(nèi)的大公司,在經(jīng)歷了最初的挫折后,都成功地?cái)[脫了低迷。但其他公司的表現(xiàn)就差強(qiáng)人意了。
以博柏利(Burberry)為例,這家英國(guó)風(fēng)衣公司最近的銷售額有所下滑。今年1月,該公司下調(diào)了全年利潤(rùn)預(yù)期,原因是在通常奢侈品銷售火爆的假日旺季,市場(chǎng)需求不振。開云集團(tuán)的警告再次表明,奢侈品行業(yè)離復(fù)蘇還有很長(zhǎng)的路要走,更不用說(shuō)重新進(jìn)入繁榮期了。
英國(guó)倫敦時(shí)間3月20日中午12點(diǎn),這家總部位于巴黎的奢侈時(shí)尚巨頭的股價(jià)下跌了13.6%。
開云集團(tuán)的代表沒(méi)有立即回復(fù)《財(cái)富》雜志的置評(píng)請(qǐng)求。
重振古馳品牌
開云集團(tuán)在上個(gè)月的年度報(bào)告中指出,由于宏觀經(jīng)濟(jì)壓力和其為提升古馳品牌而進(jìn)行的投資,2024年仍將是充滿挑戰(zhàn)的一年。
這個(gè)占到開云集團(tuán)年銷售額一半的標(biāo)志性品牌,因?yàn)槠涓?jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手在消費(fèi)者揮金如土購(gòu)買奢侈品時(shí)大舉進(jìn)攻而受到影響,失去了寶貴的業(yè)務(wù)和市場(chǎng)份額。
GAM Investments旗下的GAM Luxury Brands投資策略(GAM Luxury Brands Investment Strategy)的聯(lián)席投資經(jīng)理弗拉維奧·塞雷達(dá)在今年2月發(fā)給《財(cái)富》雜志的一份報(bào)告里稱:“古馳品牌在高價(jià)值的富裕消費(fèi)者中沒(méi)有產(chǎn)生足夠的共鳴,因?yàn)樗鼜奈幢黄?、也從未設(shè)法縮小差距。”
匯豐銀行(HSBC)的分析師在開云集團(tuán)2月發(fā)布全年業(yè)績(jī)后的一份報(bào)告中寫道:“在過(guò)去的四年里,古馳一直受困于新冠疫情期間為保護(hù)利潤(rùn)而做出的決定,而不是像該行業(yè)的其他主要企業(yè)那樣投資于市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷以促進(jìn)增長(zhǎng)。這一戰(zhàn)略轉(zhuǎn)變受到了投資者的歡迎。”
然而,轉(zhuǎn)變可能即將到來(lái)。古馳在新的管理層和創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)薩巴托·德·薩爾諾的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)下正在進(jìn)行轉(zhuǎn)型。他設(shè)計(jì)的安可拉紅(Ancora)系列已經(jīng)于上月在部分門店發(fā)售,預(yù)計(jì)將為古馳的未來(lái)發(fā)展指明方向。
分析師強(qiáng)調(diào),奢侈品行業(yè)目前也進(jìn)入了標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化時(shí)期,這意味著今年上半年將顯得平淡無(wú)奇,尤其是與2023年同期相比。
塞雷達(dá)說(shuō):“古馳確實(shí)有巨大的潛力:強(qiáng)大的供應(yīng)鏈、雄厚的傳統(tǒng)基礎(chǔ)、遍布全球的零售網(wǎng)絡(luò),以及可觀的現(xiàn)金流。但目前明顯缺乏短期催化劑。”(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))
譯者:中慧言-王芳
新冠疫情時(shí)期的奢侈品熱潮已經(jīng)褪去,該行業(yè)的知名企業(yè)出現(xiàn)銷售下滑。
最新遭受損失的是古馳(Gucci)和圣羅蘭(Yves Saint Laurent)的法國(guó)母公司開云集團(tuán)(Kering)。
在開云集團(tuán)公布今年第一季度財(cái)報(bào)的前一個(gè)月,該公司罕見(jiàn)地發(fā)布了一份悲觀的報(bào)告,稱其銷售額將比2023年下降約10%。如果放大來(lái)看,情況就會(huì)更糟,開云集團(tuán)旗下最大的品牌古馳在今年第一季度的收入可能同比下降20%。
對(duì)于該公司來(lái)說(shuō),跌幅巨大,但考慮到這家法國(guó)奢侈品零售商今年的艱難處境,這再正常不過(guò)了。
開云集團(tuán)表示,奢侈品需求停滯,尤其是在亞太地區(qū),這是造成銷售額意想不到的下降的原因。
奢侈品需求放緩已引起廣泛討論,而且這一趨勢(shì)的案例也層出不窮。中國(guó)消費(fèi)者需求放緩一直是所有奢侈品牌面臨的共同問(wèn)題。盡管中國(guó)消費(fèi)出現(xiàn)了復(fù)蘇的初步跡象,但結(jié)果并不盡如人意。
撇開亞洲的奢侈品需求不談,包括法國(guó)企業(yè)集團(tuán)路威酩軒集團(tuán)(LVMH)和手袋制造商愛(ài)馬仕(Hermes)在內(nèi)的大公司,在經(jīng)歷了最初的挫折后,都成功地?cái)[脫了低迷。但其他公司的表現(xiàn)就差強(qiáng)人意了。
以博柏利(Burberry)為例,這家英國(guó)風(fēng)衣公司最近的銷售額有所下滑。今年1月,該公司下調(diào)了全年利潤(rùn)預(yù)期,原因是在通常奢侈品銷售火爆的假日旺季,市場(chǎng)需求不振。開云集團(tuán)的警告再次表明,奢侈品行業(yè)離復(fù)蘇還有很長(zhǎng)的路要走,更不用說(shuō)重新進(jìn)入繁榮期了。
英國(guó)倫敦時(shí)間3月20日中午12點(diǎn),這家總部位于巴黎的奢侈時(shí)尚巨頭的股價(jià)下跌了13.6%。
開云集團(tuán)的代表沒(méi)有立即回復(fù)《財(cái)富》雜志的置評(píng)請(qǐng)求。
重振古馳品牌
開云集團(tuán)在上個(gè)月的年度報(bào)告中指出,由于宏觀經(jīng)濟(jì)壓力和其為提升古馳品牌而進(jìn)行的投資,2024年仍將是充滿挑戰(zhàn)的一年。
這個(gè)占到開云集團(tuán)年銷售額一半的標(biāo)志性品牌,因?yàn)槠涓?jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手在消費(fèi)者揮金如土購(gòu)買奢侈品時(shí)大舉進(jìn)攻而受到影響,失去了寶貴的業(yè)務(wù)和市場(chǎng)份額。
GAM Investments旗下的GAM Luxury Brands投資策略(GAM Luxury Brands Investment Strategy)的聯(lián)席投資經(jīng)理弗拉維奧·塞雷達(dá)在今年2月發(fā)給《財(cái)富》雜志的一份報(bào)告里稱:“古馳品牌在高價(jià)值的富裕消費(fèi)者中沒(méi)有產(chǎn)生足夠的共鳴,因?yàn)樗鼜奈幢黄?、也從未設(shè)法縮小差距?!?/p>
匯豐銀行(HSBC)的分析師在開云集團(tuán)2月發(fā)布全年業(yè)績(jī)后的一份報(bào)告中寫道:“在過(guò)去的四年里,古馳一直受困于新冠疫情期間為保護(hù)利潤(rùn)而做出的決定,而不是像該行業(yè)的其他主要企業(yè)那樣投資于市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷以促進(jìn)增長(zhǎng)。這一戰(zhàn)略轉(zhuǎn)變受到了投資者的歡迎?!?/p>
然而,轉(zhuǎn)變可能即將到來(lái)。古馳在新的管理層和創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)薩巴托·德·薩爾諾的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)下正在進(jìn)行轉(zhuǎn)型。他設(shè)計(jì)的安可拉紅(Ancora)系列已經(jīng)于上月在部分門店發(fā)售,預(yù)計(jì)將為古馳的未來(lái)發(fā)展指明方向。
分析師強(qiáng)調(diào),奢侈品行業(yè)目前也進(jìn)入了標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化時(shí)期,這意味著今年上半年將顯得平淡無(wú)奇,尤其是與2023年同期相比。
塞雷達(dá)說(shuō):“古馳確實(shí)有巨大的潛力:強(qiáng)大的供應(yīng)鏈、雄厚的傳統(tǒng)基礎(chǔ)、遍布全球的零售網(wǎng)絡(luò),以及可觀的現(xiàn)金流。但目前明顯缺乏短期催化劑?!保ㄘ?cái)富中文網(wǎng))
譯者:中慧言-王芳
The luxury boom of the pandemic era has turned into a bust, hurting some of the industry’s most prominent players.
The latest victim is Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent’s French owner, Kering.
In a rare and ominous note issued a month ahead of Kering’s first quarter results for the year, the company flagged that its sales will decline by roughly 10% compared to 2023. It gets worse if you zoom in—Kering’s biggest brand, Gucci, could see revenue decline by 20% year-over-year in the first quarter.
That’s a steep drop for the company—but it isn’t a huge anomaly given the rough year the French luxury retailer had.
Kering cited the stalling demand for luxury goods, particularly in the Asia-Pacific region, as the reason for the unexpected drop.
The luxury slowdown has been widely discussed, and many examples of the trend have emerged. Demand from Chinese shoppers has been a shared trouble for all luxury brands as they were banking on the rebound of its economy to spur more high-end spending. That hasn’t played out like brands had hoped, although there are initial signs of recovery.
Asia’s luxury appetite aside, big players, including French conglomerate LVMH and bag maker Hermes, have managed to defy a slump after initial stumbles. But others haven’t fared nearly as well.
Take Burberry, for example—the British trench-coat company has seen sales dip in recent times. In January, it lowered its full-year profit forecast after seeing lackluster demand during the peak holiday season, when luxury sales are typically booming. Kering’s warning reaffirms that the luxury industry is still miles away from seeing a recovery—let alone another boom.
The Paris-based luxury fashion giant’s shares were down 13.6% on March 20 at 12 noon London time.
Representatives at Kering didn’t immediately return Fortune’s request for comment.
Reigniting the Gucci brand
In its annual report last month, Kering flagged that 2024 would remain a challenging year due to macroeconomic pressures and its investments to bolster the Gucci brand.
The iconic label, responsible for half of Kering’s annual sales, suffered as its rivals bolted forward when consumers splurged on luxury, losing valuable business and market share.
“Gucci does not resonate enough with the more valuable affluent consumers because it never really had to and never managed to close the gap,” Flavio Cereda, co-investment manager of the GAM Luxury Brands Investment Strategy at GAM Investments, said in a February note sent to Fortune.
“In the last 4 years, Gucci has been suffering from decisions taken during the pandemic to protect margins instead of investing in marketing to fuel growth as other key players did in the sector. This strategy reversal has been welcomed by investors,” HSBC analysts wrote in a note following Kering’s full-year results released in February.
However, change may be on the horizon. Gucci is in the midst of a transformation under a new management and creative director, Sabato De Sarno. His “Ancora” collection has been available at select stores since last month, and is expected to help chart Gucci’s path forward.
The luxury industry has also entered a period of normalization now, the analysts highlighted, which means the first half of the year will seem dull, especially when compared to the same period a year ago.
“Gucci does have significant potential: the supply chain is strong, the heritage is very solid, the retail network is global and cash generation is still meaningful. But there is no obvious short-term catalyst at this time,” Cereda said.