從表面上看,英荷合資的聯(lián)合利華公司(Unilever)和法國(guó)路威酩軒集團(tuán)可能沒(méi)有太多共同之處。聯(lián)合利華生產(chǎn)多芬(Dove)香皂和Axe除臭劑,而路威酩軒集團(tuán)則擁有路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和迪奧(Christian Dior)等高端奢侈品品牌。
但只要看一下它們的收入,就會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)共同點(diǎn)——美容產(chǎn)品已被證明是它們最近取得成功的秘訣,即使經(jīng)濟(jì)挑戰(zhàn)使這兩家公司的其他業(yè)務(wù)受到拖累。
以聯(lián)合利華為例。這家在倫敦上市的巨頭周四發(fā)布了第一季度財(cái)報(bào),銷售額同比增長(zhǎng)4.4%,高于預(yù)期。
增長(zhǎng)最快的業(yè)務(wù)是什么?美容與健康,占該品牌營(yíng)業(yè)額的五分之一,包括Tatcha、多芬、Hourglass等品牌。該公司本季度的銷售額增長(zhǎng)了7.4%,遠(yuǎn)高于包括營(yíng)養(yǎng)和家庭護(hù)理在內(nèi)的其他細(xì)分市場(chǎng)。
聯(lián)合利華指出,價(jià)格上漲對(duì)增長(zhǎng)起到了一定作用,但與個(gè)人護(hù)理產(chǎn)品相比,價(jià)格上漲起到的作用較小。
另一方面,路威酩軒在規(guī)模、范圍和產(chǎn)品種類上都要大得多。這家由貝爾納·阿爾諾(Bernard Arnault)經(jīng)營(yíng)的企業(yè)集團(tuán)為世界上最富有的人生產(chǎn)香水、皮包和香檳,但它也擁有一家吸引普通消費(fèi)者的知名連鎖店——絲芙蘭。
路威酩軒集團(tuán)于1997年收購(gòu)了這家美容用品零售商,事實(shí)證明,在奢侈品行業(yè)注定要遭受重創(chuàng)的時(shí)期,這家美容用品零售商是這家法國(guó)集團(tuán)的一大亮點(diǎn)。2023 年,隨著絲芙蘭在全球擴(kuò)張并在英國(guó)重新上市后,其業(yè)績(jī)達(dá)到了歷史最佳水平。
在路威酩軒集團(tuán)今年3月發(fā)布的年度報(bào)告中,這家奢侈品巨頭指出,增長(zhǎng)來(lái)自化妝品、護(hù)發(fā)和護(hù)膚品。絲芙蘭在包括免稅店在內(nèi)的精選零售細(xì)分市場(chǎng)推動(dòng)利潤(rùn)增長(zhǎng)76%,去年的銷售額達(dá)到179億歐元(約合194億美元)。
這一趨勢(shì)一直持續(xù)到2024年第一季度,與其他高端集團(tuán)相比,路威酩軒集團(tuán)的精選零售細(xì)分市場(chǎng)增長(zhǎng)最快,漲幅達(dá)到11%。
路威酩軒集團(tuán)在上周的財(cái)報(bào)中表示:“絲芙蘭再次實(shí)現(xiàn)了顯著增長(zhǎng),持續(xù)擴(kuò)大市場(chǎng)份額?!?/p>
僅僅是“口紅效應(yīng)”,還是更多?
美容產(chǎn)品往往能挺過(guò)艱難時(shí)期。專家們注意到,在過(guò)去的經(jīng)濟(jì)衰退時(shí)期,人們會(huì)在大額支出上削減開(kāi)支,但在小額用品上大肆揮霍,這種現(xiàn)象被稱為“口紅效應(yīng)”。
這就解釋了為什么在生活成本和通貨膨脹居高不下的情況下,美容產(chǎn)品受到購(gòu)物者的青睞。
絲芙蘭的首席執(zhí)行官甚至承認(rèn),口紅效應(yīng)以及公司在店內(nèi)體驗(yàn)方面的創(chuàng)新,都對(duì)銷售起到了支撐作用。
首席執(zhí)行官紀(jì)堯姆·莫特(Guillaume Motte)上月對(duì)英國(guó)《金融時(shí)報(bào)》表示:“我們有一款易得到且讓人開(kāi)心的產(chǎn)品。我們會(huì)經(jīng)歷爆炸性增長(zhǎng)嗎?答案是否定的。我會(huì)擔(dān)心嗎?答案也是否定的。”
但是,除了美容產(chǎn)品是一種讓人有負(fù)罪感的享受之外,還有更多的故事。
最近幾個(gè)月,其他化妝品品牌也表現(xiàn)強(qiáng)勁,無(wú)論是擁有夏洛特·蒂爾伯里(Charlotte Tilbury)的西班牙普伊格公司(Puig)正尋求上市(估值高達(dá)139億歐元(149億美元)),還是歐萊雅(L’Oréal)在歐洲和北美的銷售增長(zhǎng)。麥肯錫(McKinsey)的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,到2027年,整個(gè)美容行業(yè)的價(jià)值預(yù)計(jì)將達(dá)到5800億美元,而且增長(zhǎng)速度將超過(guò)服裝和鞋類。
消費(fèi)者也日益意識(shí)到,平價(jià)品牌和高端品牌在整體外觀上不相上下,這意味著精打細(xì)算的買(mǎi)家可以花更少的錢(qián)買(mǎi)到產(chǎn)品。
這是否意味著這些美容和健康公司已經(jīng)脫離了困境?也許并非如此。對(duì)于聯(lián)合利華來(lái)說(shuō),它的部分業(yè)務(wù),比如冰淇淋業(yè)務(wù),仍前途未卜。路威酩軒集團(tuán)的銷售仍然主要依賴于時(shí)裝和皮革制品。
但與此同時(shí),何不從美容品牌超越其他品牌中獲益呢?(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))
譯者:中慧言-王芳
從表面上看,英荷合資的聯(lián)合利華公司(Unilever)和法國(guó)路威酩軒集團(tuán)可能沒(méi)有太多共同之處。聯(lián)合利華生產(chǎn)多芬(Dove)香皂和Axe除臭劑,而路威酩軒集團(tuán)則擁有路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和迪奧(Christian Dior)等高端奢侈品品牌。
但只要看一下它們的收入,就會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)共同點(diǎn)——美容產(chǎn)品已被證明是它們最近取得成功的秘訣,即使經(jīng)濟(jì)挑戰(zhàn)使這兩家公司的其他業(yè)務(wù)受到拖累。
以聯(lián)合利華為例。這家在倫敦上市的巨頭周四發(fā)布了第一季度財(cái)報(bào),銷售額同比增長(zhǎng)4.4%,高于預(yù)期。
增長(zhǎng)最快的業(yè)務(wù)是什么?美容與健康,占該品牌營(yíng)業(yè)額的五分之一,包括Tatcha、多芬、Hourglass等品牌。該公司本季度的銷售額增長(zhǎng)了7.4%,遠(yuǎn)高于包括營(yíng)養(yǎng)和家庭護(hù)理在內(nèi)的其他細(xì)分市場(chǎng)。
聯(lián)合利華指出,價(jià)格上漲對(duì)增長(zhǎng)起到了一定作用,但與個(gè)人護(hù)理產(chǎn)品相比,價(jià)格上漲起到的作用較小。
另一方面,路威酩軒在規(guī)模、范圍和產(chǎn)品種類上都要大得多。這家由貝爾納·阿爾諾(Bernard Arnault)經(jīng)營(yíng)的企業(yè)集團(tuán)為世界上最富有的人生產(chǎn)香水、皮包和香檳,但它也擁有一家吸引普通消費(fèi)者的知名連鎖店——絲芙蘭。
路威酩軒集團(tuán)于1997年收購(gòu)了這家美容用品零售商,事實(shí)證明,在奢侈品行業(yè)注定要遭受重創(chuàng)的時(shí)期,這家美容用品零售商是這家法國(guó)集團(tuán)的一大亮點(diǎn)。2023 年,隨著絲芙蘭在全球擴(kuò)張并在英國(guó)重新上市后,其業(yè)績(jī)達(dá)到了歷史最佳水平。
在路威酩軒集團(tuán)今年3月發(fā)布的年度報(bào)告中,這家奢侈品巨頭指出,增長(zhǎng)來(lái)自化妝品、護(hù)發(fā)和護(hù)膚品。絲芙蘭在包括免稅店在內(nèi)的精選零售細(xì)分市場(chǎng)推動(dòng)利潤(rùn)增長(zhǎng)76%,去年的銷售額達(dá)到179億歐元(約合194億美元)。
這一趨勢(shì)一直持續(xù)到2024年第一季度,與其他高端集團(tuán)相比,路威酩軒集團(tuán)的精選零售細(xì)分市場(chǎng)增長(zhǎng)最快,漲幅達(dá)到11%。
路威酩軒集團(tuán)在上周的財(cái)報(bào)中表示:“絲芙蘭再次實(shí)現(xiàn)了顯著增長(zhǎng),持續(xù)擴(kuò)大市場(chǎng)份額?!?/p>
僅僅是“口紅效應(yīng)”,還是更多?
美容產(chǎn)品往往能挺過(guò)艱難時(shí)期。專家們注意到,在過(guò)去的經(jīng)濟(jì)衰退時(shí)期,人們會(huì)在大額支出上削減開(kāi)支,但在小額用品上大肆揮霍,這種現(xiàn)象被稱為“口紅效應(yīng)”。
這就解釋了為什么在生活成本和通貨膨脹居高不下的情況下,美容產(chǎn)品受到購(gòu)物者的青睞。
絲芙蘭的首席執(zhí)行官甚至承認(rèn),口紅效應(yīng)以及公司在店內(nèi)體驗(yàn)方面的創(chuàng)新,都對(duì)銷售起到了支撐作用。
首席執(zhí)行官紀(jì)堯姆·莫特(Guillaume Motte)上月對(duì)英國(guó)《金融時(shí)報(bào)》表示:“我們有一款易得到且讓人開(kāi)心的產(chǎn)品。我們會(huì)經(jīng)歷爆炸性增長(zhǎng)嗎?答案是否定的。我會(huì)擔(dān)心嗎?答案也是否定的?!?/p>
但是,除了美容產(chǎn)品是一種讓人有負(fù)罪感的享受之外,還有更多的故事。
最近幾個(gè)月,其他化妝品品牌也表現(xiàn)強(qiáng)勁,無(wú)論是擁有夏洛特·蒂爾伯里(Charlotte Tilbury)的西班牙普伊格公司(Puig)正尋求上市(估值高達(dá)139億歐元(149億美元)),還是歐萊雅(L’Oréal)在歐洲和北美的銷售增長(zhǎng)。麥肯錫(McKinsey)的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,到2027年,整個(gè)美容行業(yè)的價(jià)值預(yù)計(jì)將達(dá)到5800億美元,而且增長(zhǎng)速度將超過(guò)服裝和鞋類。
消費(fèi)者也日益意識(shí)到,平價(jià)品牌和高端品牌在整體外觀上不相上下,這意味著精打細(xì)算的買(mǎi)家可以花更少的錢(qián)買(mǎi)到產(chǎn)品。
這是否意味著這些美容和健康公司已經(jīng)脫離了困境?也許并非如此。對(duì)于聯(lián)合利華來(lái)說(shuō),它的部分業(yè)務(wù),比如冰淇淋業(yè)務(wù),仍前途未卜。路威酩軒集團(tuán)的銷售仍然主要依賴于時(shí)裝和皮革制品。
但與此同時(shí),何不從美容品牌超越其他品牌中獲益呢?(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))
譯者:中慧言-王芳
On the surface, Anglo-Dutch Unilever and French LVMH might not have much in common. While Unilever makes Dove soap and Axe deodorant, LVMH owns high-end luxury labels like Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.
But just one look at their earnings and a common thread emerges—beauty products have proved the secret to their recent success, even if economic challenges have pulled other parts of their businesses down.
Take Unilever, for instance. The London-listed behemoth released its first-quarter earnings on Thursday, clocking in higher sales growth than anticipated, of 4.4% compared with last year.
Its fastest-growing segment? Beauty and well-being. It contributes to a fifth of the brand’s turnover and includes brands like Tatcha, Dove, Hourglass, and more. Its sales growth for the quarter was 7.4%—well above any other segment including nutrition and home care.
Price increases had a part to play in the growth, but less so compared with personal care products, Unilever noted.
LVMH, on the other hand, is a far bigger company in size, scope, and variety of products. The Bernard Arnault–run conglomerate makes perfume, leather bags, and Champagne for the world’s most affluent, but it also owns a well-known chain that appeals to the average shopper—Sephora.
The beauty retailer, which LVMH bought in 1997, has proved a big bright spot for the French group amid an otherwise doomed period for the luxury industry. Sephora had its best-ever performance in 2023 as it expanded globally and relaunched in the U.K.
In LVMH’s annual report released in March, the luxury behemoth noted that the growth came from makeup, hair care, and skin care. Sephora helped drive a 76% profit rise in the selective retailing segment, which includes duty-free shops, and raked in €17.9 billion ($19.4 billion) in sales last year.
That trend continued into the first quarter of 2024, as LVMH’s selective retailing segment grew the most—by 11%—compared with other premium groups.
“Sephora once again achieved remarkable growth, continuing to gain market share,” LVMH said in its earnings release last week.
Just the ‘lipstick effect,’ or more?
Beauty products tend to persist through trying times. Experts have noticed the phenomenon, dubbed the “l(fā)ipstick effect,” through past economic downturns as people look to trim costs on big expenses but splurge in small ways.
This explains why beauty products are popular among shoppers when the cost of living and inflation remain elevated.
Sephora’s CEO even agreed the lipstick effect had a hand in propping up its sales, along with the company’s innovations with in-store experiences.
“We have a product that makes people happy, an accessible product. Are we going to have explosive growth? The answer is no. Am I concerned? The answer is also no,” CEO Guillaume Motte told the Financial Times last month.
But there’s more to the story beyond beauty products being a guilty pleasure.
Other cosmetic brands have also seen a strong run in recent months—whether that’s Spain’s Puig, which owns Charlotte Tilbury, looking to go public with a market value of up to €13.9 billion ($14.9 billion), or L’Oréal’s sales boost across Europe and North America. By 2027, the overall beauty industry is expected to be worth $580 billion—and achieved at a faster pace than apparel or footwear, according to McKinsey.
There’s also a growing realization among shoppers that affordable and premium brands are comparable in their overall look, which means a smaller wallet spend for the budget-conscious buyer.
Does that mean these beauty and wellness companies are out of the woods? Probably not. For Unilever, there are still parts of its business, like its ice cream segment, with an uncertain future. And LVMH’s sales still hinge heavily on fashion and leather products.
But in the meantime, why not reap the benefits of beauty brands outshining the rest?