早在 1987 年創(chuàng)辦路威酩軒集團(tuán)(LVMH)之前,貝爾納?阿爾諾就已經(jīng)是一位有名的交易大師了。在此前三年,阿爾諾以象征性的1 法郎的價(jià)格收購了迪奧的母公司,也就是當(dāng)時(shí)已經(jīng)瀕臨破產(chǎn)的博薩克公司。
即便在當(dāng)時(shí),迪奧也是最有名的奢侈品品牌之一。不過它的所有者——法國“棉花大王”馬塞爾?博薩克深陷財(cái)務(wù)危機(jī),他的紡織帝國已經(jīng)搖搖欲墜,不得不選擇斷尾求生。
有了迪奧作為基礎(chǔ),阿爾諾繼續(xù)進(jìn)軍奢侈品產(chǎn)業(yè),并且在后續(xù)創(chuàng)辦路威酩軒的過程中頻繁出手交易。路威酩軒集團(tuán)是路易威登和酩悅軒尼詩兩家公司合并的結(jié)果。阿爾諾于是成了迪奧的董事長兼首席執(zhí)行官,并使迪奧成了LVMH旗下的控股公司。
在此之后,阿爾諾一邊打造自己商業(yè)帝國,一邊擠壓原博薩克公司的勢(shì)力。他將首先是擠走了原路易威登的總裁,然后解聘了原博薩克公司 9000多名員工,同時(shí)剝離了博薩克公司的大量資產(chǎn),這些舉措也給他帶來了“終結(jié)者”的綽號(hào)。此外,他還收購了一系列品牌,包括紀(jì)梵希、羅意威和芬迪等等。
現(xiàn)如今,路威酩軒集團(tuán)的市值已達(dá)到 3190 億歐元(約合 3360 億美元),旗下?lián)碛?75 個(gè)品牌,阿爾諾本人也憑借 1800 億美元的凈資產(chǎn)成為歐洲首富。當(dāng)然,樹大招風(fēng),作為這樣一個(gè)龐大商業(yè)帝國的締造者,他也經(jīng)常會(huì)遭遇各種各樣的批評(píng)。
阿爾諾 2018 年接受CNBC采訪時(shí)曾表示:“我記得有人跟我說,把這么多品牌整合到一起沒什么意義,但它卻成功了,而且是世所公認(rèn)的成功。”
“而且在過去10 年里,每個(gè)競(jìng)爭對(duì)手都在試圖模仿我們,這對(duì)我們來說是一件值得欣慰的事。我認(rèn)為他們?cè)谶@方尚未成功,但他們一直在嘗試。”
當(dāng)然,雖然阿爾諾通過收購眾多奢侈品品牌,成功打造了自己的商業(yè)帝國,但他也并非沒有經(jīng)歷過失敗。特別是他曾嘗試收購競(jìng)爭對(duì)手愛馬仕。長期以來,愛馬仕一直是奢侈品消費(fèi)者心目中的頂流。
2016 年,一部法國諷刺紀(jì)錄片《謝謝老板》將阿爾諾的冷酷無情展示在了世人面前,這部影片后來甚至屢屢斬獲大獎(jiǎng)。這的故事圍繞著法國北部的一對(duì)夫婦展開,夫妻二人原本在路威酩軒一家分包公司工作,但因?yàn)長VMH在波蘭建了一家新工廠,導(dǎo)致夫妻二人雙雙失業(yè)。接著,他們便開始找阿爾諾尋仇。
這部影片通過一個(gè)“平民戰(zhàn)惡龍”式的故事,深刻觸及了全球化和貧富差距等突出矛盾,引起了法國民眾的共鳴。在影片上映后,本片的制作人、左翼議員弗朗索瓦?呂芬在接受法國 24 電視臺(tái)采訪時(shí)表示,這部影片對(duì)觀眾有著一種 “解放般的影響”。
阿爾諾對(duì)這部紀(jì)錄片非常不滿,據(jù)稱,他甚至指派法國國內(nèi)安全總局前負(fù)責(zé)貝爾納?斯夸爾西尼去監(jiān)視呂芬及其創(chuàng)辦的《Fakir》雜志。
呂芬于2019 年提起訴訟,聲稱路威酩軒集團(tuán)在他拍攝該片期間重金收買了斯夸爾西尼。此案涉嫌利用影響力受賄和濫用公共資金等指控,目前還在法庭審理階段,阿爾諾上個(gè)月也作為案件當(dāng)事人出庭了。
這起案件讓這位法國首富陷入了極為難堪的境地。不過他否認(rèn)與此事有牽連。
75歲的阿爾諾在法庭上表示:“我對(duì)此事絕對(duì)是不知情的?!?/p>
當(dāng)他在法庭上被問到 2007 年法國北部的一家紡織廠被關(guān)閉一事時(shí),阿爾諾打斷了呂芬的律師的質(zhì)問。“……你說的只是一百來個(gè)工作崗位的事。從那時(shí)到現(xiàn)在,我創(chuàng)造了多少工作崗位?我之前說過的……19 萬個(gè)!你覺得這夠不夠?對(duì)呂芬先生來說夠不夠?還是我們得繼續(xù)糾纏這種蠢問題?”
阿爾諾不喜歡別人對(duì)他提反對(duì)意見,這一點(diǎn)并非什么秘密。今年早些時(shí)候,他向路威酩軒集團(tuán)的員工發(fā)送了一份備忘錄,禁止他們與某些法國媒體機(jī)構(gòu)交流,并警告道,如果員工違反這項(xiàng)規(guī)定,將會(huì)面臨嚴(yán)重后果。
阿爾諾和呂芬都想讓對(duì)方為自己的行為付出代價(jià)——一個(gè)罵對(duì)方是經(jīng)營奢侈品帝國的冷酷血腥資本家,一個(gè)罵對(duì)方拍片子諷刺自己是別有用心,而且“非常搞笑”。
路威酩軒集團(tuán)的代表并未及時(shí)回復(fù)《財(cái)富》的置評(píng)請(qǐng)求。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))
譯者:樸成奎
早在 1987 年創(chuàng)辦路威酩軒集團(tuán)(LVMH)之前,貝爾納?阿爾諾就已經(jīng)是一位有名的交易大師了。在此前三年,阿爾諾以象征性的1 法郎的價(jià)格收購了迪奧的母公司,也就是當(dāng)時(shí)已經(jīng)瀕臨破產(chǎn)的博薩克公司。
即便在當(dāng)時(shí),迪奧也是最有名的奢侈品品牌之一。不過它的所有者——法國“棉花大王”馬塞爾?博薩克深陷財(cái)務(wù)危機(jī),他的紡織帝國已經(jīng)搖搖欲墜,不得不選擇斷尾求生。
有了迪奧作為基礎(chǔ),阿爾諾繼續(xù)進(jìn)軍奢侈品產(chǎn)業(yè),并且在后續(xù)創(chuàng)辦路威酩軒的過程中頻繁出手交易。路威酩軒集團(tuán)是路易威登和酩悅軒尼詩兩家公司合并的結(jié)果。阿爾諾于是成了迪奧的董事長兼首席執(zhí)行官,并使迪奧成了LVMH旗下的控股公司。
在此之后,阿爾諾一邊打造自己商業(yè)帝國,一邊擠壓原博薩克公司的勢(shì)力。他將首先是擠走了原路易威登的總裁,然后解聘了原博薩克公司 9000多名員工,同時(shí)剝離了博薩克公司的大量資產(chǎn),這些舉措也給他帶來了“終結(jié)者”的綽號(hào)。此外,他還收購了一系列品牌,包括紀(jì)梵希、羅意威和芬迪等等。
現(xiàn)如今,路威酩軒集團(tuán)的市值已達(dá)到 3190 億歐元(約合 3360 億美元),旗下?lián)碛?75 個(gè)品牌,阿爾諾本人也憑借 1800 億美元的凈資產(chǎn)成為歐洲首富。當(dāng)然,樹大招風(fēng),作為這樣一個(gè)龐大商業(yè)帝國的締造者,他也經(jīng)常會(huì)遭遇各種各樣的批評(píng)。
阿爾諾 2018 年接受CNBC采訪時(shí)曾表示:“我記得有人跟我說,把這么多品牌整合到一起沒什么意義,但它卻成功了,而且是世所公認(rèn)的成功?!?/p>
“而且在過去10 年里,每個(gè)競(jìng)爭對(duì)手都在試圖模仿我們,這對(duì)我們來說是一件值得欣慰的事。我認(rèn)為他們?cè)谶@方尚未成功,但他們一直在嘗試?!?/p>
當(dāng)然,雖然阿爾諾通過收購眾多奢侈品品牌,成功打造了自己的商業(yè)帝國,但他也并非沒有經(jīng)歷過失敗。特別是他曾嘗試收購競(jìng)爭對(duì)手愛馬仕。長期以來,愛馬仕一直是奢侈品消費(fèi)者心目中的頂流。
2016 年,一部法國諷刺紀(jì)錄片《謝謝老板》將阿爾諾的冷酷無情展示在了世人面前,這部影片后來甚至屢屢斬獲大獎(jiǎng)。這的故事圍繞著法國北部的一對(duì)夫婦展開,夫妻二人原本在路威酩軒一家分包公司工作,但因?yàn)長VMH在波蘭建了一家新工廠,導(dǎo)致夫妻二人雙雙失業(yè)。接著,他們便開始找阿爾諾尋仇。
這部影片通過一個(gè)“平民戰(zhàn)惡龍”式的故事,深刻觸及了全球化和貧富差距等突出矛盾,引起了法國民眾的共鳴。在影片上映后,本片的制作人、左翼議員弗朗索瓦?呂芬在接受法國 24 電視臺(tái)采訪時(shí)表示,這部影片對(duì)觀眾有著一種 “解放般的影響”。
阿爾諾對(duì)這部紀(jì)錄片非常不滿,據(jù)稱,他甚至指派法國國內(nèi)安全總局前負(fù)責(zé)貝爾納?斯夸爾西尼去監(jiān)視呂芬及其創(chuàng)辦的《Fakir》雜志。
呂芬于2019 年提起訴訟,聲稱路威酩軒集團(tuán)在他拍攝該片期間重金收買了斯夸爾西尼。此案涉嫌利用影響力受賄和濫用公共資金等指控,目前還在法庭審理階段,阿爾諾上個(gè)月也作為案件當(dāng)事人出庭了。
這起案件讓這位法國首富陷入了極為難堪的境地。不過他否認(rèn)與此事有牽連。
75歲的阿爾諾在法庭上表示:“我對(duì)此事絕對(duì)是不知情的。”
當(dāng)他在法庭上被問到 2007 年法國北部的一家紡織廠被關(guān)閉一事時(shí),阿爾諾打斷了呂芬的律師的質(zhì)問?!啊阏f的只是一百來個(gè)工作崗位的事。從那時(shí)到現(xiàn)在,我創(chuàng)造了多少工作崗位?我之前說過的……19 萬個(gè)!你覺得這夠不夠?對(duì)呂芬先生來說夠不夠?還是我們得繼續(xù)糾纏這種蠢問題?”
阿爾諾不喜歡別人對(duì)他提反對(duì)意見,這一點(diǎn)并非什么秘密。今年早些時(shí)候,他向路威酩軒集團(tuán)的員工發(fā)送了一份備忘錄,禁止他們與某些法國媒體機(jī)構(gòu)交流,并警告道,如果員工違反這項(xiàng)規(guī)定,將會(huì)面臨嚴(yán)重后果。
阿爾諾和呂芬都想讓對(duì)方為自己的行為付出代價(jià)——一個(gè)罵對(duì)方是經(jīng)營奢侈品帝國的冷酷血腥資本家,一個(gè)罵對(duì)方拍片子諷刺自己是別有用心,而且“非常搞笑”。
路威酩軒集團(tuán)的代表并未及時(shí)回復(fù)《財(cái)富》的置評(píng)請(qǐng)求。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))
譯者:樸成奎
Bernard Arnault’s reputation as a master dealmaker predates the founding of LVMH, the luxury conglomerate he runs, in 1987. Three years before that, the French businessman bought Christian Dior’s then-parent, Boussac, for a meager one franc as it was trending toward bankruptcy.
At the time, Dior was still among the most prestigious luxury labels as it symbolized opulence. However, the owner, Marcel Boussac, who was called France’s “cotton king,” began to lose much of his textile empire under financial pressure.
With Dior as the foundation, Arnault doubled down on the deal streak when he subsequently established LVMH, which was born out of the merger of Louis Vuitton and Mo?t Hennessy. He became Dior’s chair and CEO and made it LVMH’s holding company.
The young entrepreneur left no stone unturned to build his fortune after that. He pushed Louis Vuitton’s president from his family company, fired some 9,000 people who worked at Boussac, and shed much of Boussac’s assets, earning him the moniker “the Terminator.” He also acquired a string of Maisons (or brands), including Givenchy, Loewe, and Fendi.
Today, LVMH has a market cap of €319 billion ($336 billion), houses 75 Maisons, and has made Arnault Europe’s wealthiest person with a net worth of $180 billion. He occasionally battled with criticism over building a company that was so big it couldn’t be touched.
“I remember people telling me it doesn’t make sense to put together so many brands. And it was a success. It is a recognized success,” Arnault told CNBC in 2018.
“And for the last 10 years now, every competitor is trying to imitate, which is very rewarding for us. I think they are not successful, but they try.”
While the luxury CEO has established his empire by snapping up numerous fashion and lifestyle companies, he’s had a few failures, too. None were more high profile than his attempted purchase of rival Hermès, which has long been a North Star for luxury buyers.
His ruthless ways became the center of attention in 2016 with a French satirical documentary that became an award-winning smash hit in no time. The story of Merci Patron! (meaning “Thanks Boss!”) focuses on a couple in northern France who are laid off when their jobs at an LVMH subcontractor are lost to a new factory in Poland. They then go after Arnault for revenge.
The film touched on globalization, inequality, and a David-versus-Goliath-like struggle between workers and employers, which resonated with French people. Fran?ois Ruffin, the filmmaker and a left-wing lawmaker, told France 24 upon the film’s release that it had a “l(fā)iberating effect” on those who watched it.
Arnault was displeased with the documentary and allegedly assigned Bernard Squarcini, former head of France’s domestic security agency, the task of spying on Ruffin and his journal, Fakir.
Ruffin filed a lawsuit in 2019 claiming LVMH contracted Squarcini while his César Award–winning documentary was being filmed. That case, which includes charges of influence-peddling and misuse of public funds, is now being tried in court—and Arnault appeared in court last month as part of it.
The case has dragged the French billionaire into an unflattering spotlight, although he denied involvement.
“I was absolutely unaware of this,” the 75-year-old Arnault said in court.
When he was asked about the closure of a textile factory in northern France in 2007 in court, Arnault stopped Ruffin’s lawyer, saying: “You’re talking about a hundred or so jobs. Since then and now, I’ve created how many jobs? I said it before … 190,000. Does that work for you? Does that work for Mr. Ruffin? Or do we have to continue with this idiocy?”
It’s no secret that Arnault isn’t a fan of dissenting views. Earlier this year, he sent a memo to LVMH employees banning them from speaking to certain French media outlets, warning them that they’d face serious consequences if they did.
Both Arnault and Ruffin have tried to hold each other accountable for their actions: running a luxury empire in a capitalistic era and making a “rather funny” but adversarial film about a successful business.
Representatives at LVMH didn’t immediately return Fortune’s request for comment.