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《王冠》進(jìn)入第三季,華麗依舊

《王冠》進(jìn)入第三季,華麗依舊

Radhika Marya 2020-09-06
第三季將觀眾帶入了20世紀(jì)60年代和70年代。

2016年Netflix的《王冠》(The Crown)剛開播,就立刻吸引了評論家和觀眾。劇中隨處可見奢華布景和服裝、知名演員陣容,還有宏大的音樂,劇情是從1940年代開始的伊麗莎白二世的生活。

該劇播出后好評如潮,11月將迎來下一季。今年第三季在藝術(shù)指導(dǎo)和古裝類別獲得艾美獎(Emmy Awards)的多項提名。正如人們所料,從《財富》雜志與藝術(shù)指導(dǎo)馬丁·查爾茲和第三季服裝指導(dǎo)艾米·羅伯茨的對話來看,為如此宏大的作品設(shè)計服裝和造型需要大量研究,也涉及一些非常具體的流程。

查爾茲從一開始就參與劇集制作,他說第一季后開發(fā)了系統(tǒng),在一張紙中間畫出一集劇情主要地點,比如白金漢宮或溫莎城堡。然后畫上一些箭頭和其他信息?,F(xiàn)在變成“幾乎每個人都想要份拷貝。感覺一張紙就能讀懂劇本?!彼f。

“對我來說,畫圖的好處在于理順敘事的順序?!辈闋柶澱f,這樣一來才可以在不同場景中避免使用相同的顏色或窗口布置,幫助觀眾理解故事的發(fā)展。

Netflix的《王冠》第三季中,奧利維婭·科爾曼飾演伊麗莎白二世。圖片來源:Sophie Mutevelian—Netflix

制作布景的過程中進(jìn)行了廣泛的研究,例如,將白金漢宮知名區(qū)域盡可能地精確復(fù)制非常重要。為此,查爾茲在第一季拍攝之前專門參觀了皇室官邸。但也有一些部分,比如皇室的私人公寓并無公開記錄,查爾茲則利用“合理想象”搭建。

“不得不說,《王冠》里沒有任何道具是真實物品的(準(zhǔn)確)復(fù)制品?!辈闋柶澱f,不過布景風(fēng)格仍然遵從真實風(fēng)格。

查爾茲表示,每季約有400種的布景。由于演員陣容有些變化(前兩季由克萊爾·芙伊飾演女王,而第三季和第四季由奧利維婭·科爾曼接手),每季中重復(fù)利用部分布景有助于從視覺上提醒觀眾,觀眾仍然在觀看同一部劇。

重復(fù)利用布景并不意味著不會在不同地點拍攝,在英國和國外都有。有些地點的戲會在其他地方取景。查爾茲說,剛開始幾季里,國外取景有70%都在南非。

“但第三季,我們幾乎用盡了南非的取景地,這讓人難以置信?!辈闋柶澱f,因此最后在“西班牙小三角”地區(qū)拍攝了一些場景。該地拍攝的場景用在了加利福尼亞、亞利桑那和加勒比海地區(qū)的劇情中。劇組和劇組也回到西班牙,為即將到來的第四季尋找不同的拍攝地點。

羅伯茨設(shè)計服裝時也做了大量研究,沉浸在王室成員的照片、書籍和電影中。但后來“全都拋諸腦后”。

“我們不是拍紀(jì)錄片,這是電視劇?!彼忉屨f。

第三季將觀眾帶入了20世紀(jì)60年代和70年代,羅伯茨很興奮,因為這一時期“王室女性似乎鐘愛美麗強烈的色彩。”

圖中從左至右:艾琳·多爾蒂(安妮公主)、瑪麗昂·貝利(女王母親)、海倫娜·伯翰·卡特(瑪格麗特公主)和本·丹尼爾斯(安東尼·阿姆斯特朗·瓊斯)。在Netflix的《王冠》第三季中,不同年代的人穿著不同的衣服,服裝設(shè)計師艾米·羅伯茨突出了20世紀(jì)60年代王室女性喜歡的“甜杏仁色”。圖片來源:Des Willie—Netflix

女王通常熱愛色彩鮮艷的服裝,現(xiàn)在也還是喜歡,不過當(dāng)時最受歡迎的是羅伯茨稱之為“甜杏仁”的顏色,比如粉紅色和丁香花色,于是服裝部門“勇敢大膽”描繪了新時期的時尚。

最近一季里皇室不同世代的差異也更加明顯。女王母親的服裝仍然有20世紀(jì)30年代的風(fēng)格,瑪格麗特公主和伊麗莎白女王則更貼近A字型等60年代風(fēng)格,不過相對莊重。另一方面,安妮公主還穿了一些迷你裙。

“再強調(diào)一次,不是過分的超短裙,像短到膝蓋以上幾英寸那種,我們設(shè)計的服裝并不瘋狂?!绷_伯茨說。

對羅伯茨來說,最具挑戰(zhàn)性的場景是查爾斯王子的授勛儀式,儀式后他正式成為威爾士親王。其中王冠是為本劇特別制作,長袍制作則面臨倫理挑戰(zhàn)。

“必須得制作,我們不能用新鮮皮草,所以襯里都用了貂皮,所以我們只得大量采購允許使用的貂皮?!绷_伯茨說。

《王冠》第三季中,喬什·奧康納(左)飾查爾斯王子,奧利維婭·科爾曼(右)飾女王伊麗莎白二世。王子的授勛禮服是劇中最具挑戰(zhàn)性的服裝之一。圖片來源:Des Willie—Netflix

另外,羅伯茨最喜歡的作品是愛麗絲公主的修女服飾?!捌渌巧昧撕芏嘟z綢和花飾,非?;ㄉ?,突然出現(xiàn)這樣一位特別的角色,簡單誠實的菲利普親王母親?!彼f?!拔覀兊脧念^開始重新設(shè)計……做舊然后打補丁?!?/font>

藝術(shù)指導(dǎo)方面,重現(xiàn)與王室并無關(guān)系的阿伯凡礦難挑戰(zhàn)最大,不過查爾茲對故事角度取得的成就還是很自豪。

“這是歷史上的真事,是真人經(jīng)歷過可怕的事,有些人還活著,仍然記得——當(dāng)年我也有印象?!辈闋柶澱f。“目前來看,準(zhǔn)確細(xì)致地描述礦難是《王冠》電視劇中最困難的一段?!?/font>

他補充道:“我們的責(zé)任是向世人展示這一駭人聽聞的事件如何發(fā)生?!?

跟其他部門保持溝通是拍攝《王冠》一劇的關(guān)鍵。查爾茲與羅伯茨就密切合作,協(xié)調(diào)場景中布置的顏色,也經(jīng)常為視覺效果團(tuán)隊繪制草圖講述意圖。

“我不喜歡鏡頭里特效太多?!辈闋柶澱f,他更喜歡至少三分之二的內(nèi)容保持真實。“我們的特效團(tuán)隊也非常愿意接受。他們的任務(wù)是讓特效看起來與布景融為一體?!?/font>

隨著團(tuán)隊制作的劇集越來越多,幕后團(tuán)隊仍然有應(yīng)對之法。

隨著劇集不斷推進(jìn),查爾茲也不斷調(diào)整節(jié)奏。他解釋說,《王冠》電視劇更像“史詩小說”,處理方式與兩小時的電影顯然有所不同。

“我得留著點。不能剛開頭兩個小時就把最好的創(chuàng)意都用上。電影只有兩個小時,《王冠》還要拍48集?!彼f。

與此同時,今年秋天第四季開播時,觀眾“將迎來三位著名女性登場,即女王、撒切爾夫人,當(dāng)然還有戴安娜王妃。他們將踏上真正的旅行,視覺上的旅行?!绷_伯茨說。

“我們確實提高了業(yè)界水準(zhǔn)?!?/font>

今年《王冠》獲得13項艾美獎提名。首播以來劇集共獲得39項提名,迄今已獲得8項艾美獎。(財富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Feb

2016年Netflix的《王冠》(The Crown)剛開播,就立刻吸引了評論家和觀眾。劇中隨處可見奢華布景和服裝、知名演員陣容,還有宏大的音樂,劇情是從1940年代開始的伊麗莎白二世的生活。

該劇播出后好評如潮,11月將迎來下一季。今年第三季在藝術(shù)指導(dǎo)和古裝類別獲得艾美獎(Emmy Awards)的多項提名。正如人們所料,從《財富》雜志與藝術(shù)指導(dǎo)馬丁·查爾茲和第三季服裝指導(dǎo)艾米·羅伯茨的對話來看,為如此宏大的作品設(shè)計服裝和造型需要大量研究,也涉及一些非常具體的流程。

查爾茲從一開始就參與劇集制作,他說第一季后開發(fā)了系統(tǒng),在一張紙中間畫出一集劇情主要地點,比如白金漢宮或溫莎城堡。然后畫上一些箭頭和其他信息。現(xiàn)在變成“幾乎每個人都想要份拷貝。感覺一張紙就能讀懂劇本?!彼f。

“對我來說,畫圖的好處在于理順敘事的順序?!辈闋柶澱f,這樣一來才可以在不同場景中避免使用相同的顏色或窗口布置,幫助觀眾理解故事的發(fā)展。

制作布景的過程中進(jìn)行了廣泛的研究,例如,將白金漢宮知名區(qū)域盡可能地精確復(fù)制非常重要。為此,查爾茲在第一季拍攝之前專門參觀了皇室官邸。但也有一些部分,比如皇室的私人公寓并無公開記錄,查爾茲則利用“合理想象”搭建。

“不得不說,《王冠》里沒有任何道具是真實物品的(準(zhǔn)確)復(fù)制品?!辈闋柶澱f,不過布景風(fēng)格仍然遵從真實風(fēng)格。

查爾茲表示,每季約有400種的布景。由于演員陣容有些變化(前兩季由克萊爾·芙伊飾演女王,而第三季和第四季由奧利維婭·科爾曼接手),每季中重復(fù)利用部分布景有助于從視覺上提醒觀眾,觀眾仍然在觀看同一部劇。

重復(fù)利用布景并不意味著不會在不同地點拍攝,在英國和國外都有。有些地點的戲會在其他地方取景。查爾茲說,剛開始幾季里,國外取景有70%都在南非。

“但第三季,我們幾乎用盡了南非的取景地,這讓人難以置信?!辈闋柶澱f,因此最后在“西班牙小三角”地區(qū)拍攝了一些場景。該地拍攝的場景用在了加利福尼亞、亞利桑那和加勒比海地區(qū)的劇情中。劇組和劇組也回到西班牙,為即將到來的第四季尋找不同的拍攝地點。

羅伯茨設(shè)計服裝時也做了大量研究,沉浸在王室成員的照片、書籍和電影中。但后來“全都拋諸腦后”。

“我們不是拍紀(jì)錄片,這是電視劇?!彼忉屨f。

第三季將觀眾帶入了20世紀(jì)60年代和70年代,羅伯茨很興奮,因為這一時期“王室女性似乎鐘愛美麗強烈的色彩。”

女王通常熱愛色彩鮮艷的服裝,現(xiàn)在也還是喜歡,不過當(dāng)時最受歡迎的是羅伯茨稱之為“甜杏仁”的顏色,比如粉紅色和丁香花色,于是服裝部門“勇敢大膽”描繪了新時期的時尚。

最近一季里皇室不同世代的差異也更加明顯。女王母親的服裝仍然有20世紀(jì)30年代的風(fēng)格,瑪格麗特公主和伊麗莎白女王則更貼近A字型等60年代風(fēng)格,不過相對莊重。另一方面,安妮公主還穿了一些迷你裙。

“再強調(diào)一次,不是過分的超短裙,像短到膝蓋以上幾英寸那種,我們設(shè)計的服裝并不瘋狂?!绷_伯茨說。

對羅伯茨來說,最具挑戰(zhàn)性的場景是查爾斯王子的授勛儀式,儀式后他正式成為威爾士親王。其中王冠是為本劇特別制作,長袍制作則面臨倫理挑戰(zhàn)。

“必須得制作,我們不能用新鮮皮草,所以襯里都用了貂皮,所以我們只得大量采購允許使用的貂皮?!绷_伯茨說。

另外,羅伯茨最喜歡的作品是愛麗絲公主的修女服飾。“其他角色用了很多絲綢和花飾,非?;ㄉ?,突然出現(xiàn)這樣一位特別的角色,簡單誠實的菲利普親王母親。”她說?!拔覀兊脧念^開始重新設(shè)計……做舊然后打補丁?!?/font>

藝術(shù)指導(dǎo)方面,重現(xiàn)與王室并無關(guān)系的阿伯凡礦難挑戰(zhàn)最大,不過查爾茲對故事角度取得的成就還是很自豪。

“這是歷史上的真事,是真人經(jīng)歷過可怕的事,有些人還活著,仍然記得——當(dāng)年我也有印象?!辈闋柶澱f。“目前來看,準(zhǔn)確細(xì)致地描述礦難是《王冠》電視劇中最困難的一段?!?/font>

他補充道:“我們的責(zé)任是向世人展示這一駭人聽聞的事件如何發(fā)生?!?

跟其他部門保持溝通是拍攝《王冠》一劇的關(guān)鍵。查爾茲與羅伯茨就密切合作,協(xié)調(diào)場景中布置的顏色,也經(jīng)常為視覺效果團(tuán)隊繪制草圖講述意圖。

“我不喜歡鏡頭里特效太多?!辈闋柶澱f,他更喜歡至少三分之二的內(nèi)容保持真實?!拔覀兊奶匦F(tuán)隊也非常愿意接受。他們的任務(wù)是讓特效看起來與布景融為一體?!?/font>

隨著團(tuán)隊制作的劇集越來越多,幕后團(tuán)隊仍然有應(yīng)對之法。

隨著劇集不斷推進(jìn),查爾茲也不斷調(diào)整節(jié)奏。他解釋說,《王冠》電視劇更像“史詩小說”,處理方式與兩小時的電影顯然有所不同。

“我得留著點。不能剛開頭兩個小時就把最好的創(chuàng)意都用上。電影只有兩個小時,《王冠》還要拍48集?!彼f。

與此同時,今年秋天第四季開播時,觀眾“將迎來三位著名女性登場,即女王、撒切爾夫人,當(dāng)然還有戴安娜王妃。他們將踏上真正的旅行,視覺上的旅行?!绷_伯茨說。

“我們確實提高了業(yè)界水準(zhǔn)?!?/font>

今年《王冠》獲得13項艾美獎提名。首播以來劇集共獲得39項提名,迄今已獲得8項艾美獎。(財富中文網(wǎng))

譯者:Feb

Netflix’s The Crown caught the eye of critics and audiences alike when its first season premiered in 2016. Lavish sets and costumes, a notable cast, and stately music are all part of the drama series, which chronicles the life of Queen Elizabeth II, starting in the 1940s.

With a new season on its way in November, the series continues to draw accolades; its third season is nominated for various Emmy Awards this year, including in the production design and period costume categories. As one would expect, costuming and coming up with the overall look of such a vast production involves a good amount of research, as well as some very specific processes, according to Fortune’s conversations with production designer Martin Childs and season three costume designer Amy Roberts.

Childs, who has worked on the series from the beginning, says he developed a system after the first season that involves sketching the main location where most of an episode takes place—such as Buckingham Palace or Windsor Castle—at the center of a sheet of paper. Then he draws in some arrows and additional information around that. It’s gotten to a point where “almost everybody wants a copy now. It’s like looking at the script in a one-page guideline,” he says.

“The way that helps me is to know when something in the narrative follows something else,” Childs says, adding that it helps him decide when to avoid using things like the same colors or window arrangements from scene-to-scene—visual cues that help the audience understand the story is moving along.

Extensive research is involved in creating the sets—making well-known areas of Buckingham Palace, for instance, as accurate as possible is important; Childs toured the royal residence ahead of season one. But there are also parts of the set, such as the royal family’s private apartments—which there are no public records of—that are built using what Childs refers to as “informed imagination.”

“I have to say that absolutely nothing in The Crown is [an exact] replica of the real thing,” Childs says, though the style of the sets remains true to the spirit of the real location.

There are probably about 400 different sets used each season, according to Childs. Repeating some of them throughout the seasons, especially as the cast changed (the Queen is portrayed by Claire Foy in the first two seasons, while Olivia Colman took over the role in the third and fourth seasons), helps serve as a visual reminder that audiences are still watching the same characters on the same show.

The use of such sets doesn’t mean the show doesn’t also shoot in different locations, both in the U.K. and abroad, though. Some locations wind up substituting for others onscreen. In the early seasons, South Africa stood in for roughly 70% of the show’s foreign settings, Childs says.

“But season three, we kind of almost exhausted—unbelievably—our South Africa locations,” says Childs, so the production wound up shooting some scenes in “a little triangle of Spain” instead. This region ended up standing in for places such as California, Arizona, and the Caribbean. The cast and crew also returned to Spain to re-create various locations for the upcoming fourth season.

For her part, Roberts also does a tremendous amount of research when designing costumes, immersing herself in photos, books, and films featuring members of the royal family. But then she eventually “throws it all away.”

“We’re not doing a documentary—it’s a drama,” she explains.

Season three, which plunges viewers into the ’60s and ’70s, was exciting for Roberts to work on because of “those extraordinary beautiful, punchy colors that the royal women really seemed to relish.”

While the Queen is generally known for wearing bright colors, even today, that particular period featured what Roberts calls “sugared almond” colors like pinks and lilacs, which allowed the costuming department to jump in “bravely and boldly” to depict a new era.

The most recent season also saw the differences between the various royal generations highlighted more clearly. The Queen Mum’s clothing still has hints of a 1930s silhouette, while Princess Margaret and Queen Elizabeth are in ’60s silhouettes like A-lines, albeit with an element of modesty. Princess Anne, on the other hand, actually sports some miniskirts.

“Again, not outrageous miniskirts—you know, like a couple of inches above her knees, not crazy,” Roberts says.

The most challenging project for Roberts involved Prince Charles’s investiture—the ceremony that formalized his status as Prince of Wales. The crown he wears in those scenes was especially made for the series, while the robe in particular posed something of an ethical challenge.

“That all had to be made, and we quite rightly don’t use fresh fur, so all the lining is ermine, and so we had to source an awful lot of approved ermine,” Roberts says.

Separately, Roberts’s favorite piece to work on was Princess Alice’s nun’s costume. “You’ve got all silks and the florals and the razzmatazz, and suddenly you’ve got this extraordinary character that is Prince Philip’s mother, and simple and honest,” she says. “We had to re-create that from absolute scratch…I had it worn and patched and darned.”

On the production design end, re-creating the Aberfan disaster—establishing a tragedy that did not involve the royal family—was a big challenge, though Childs is proud of what was ultimately accomplished from a storytelling perspective.

“It was a real part of history and a terrible thing that happened to real people, some of whom are still alive and remember it—I was around when it happened,” says Childs. “The responsibility of telling that story well and accurately was like nothing else on The Crown so far.”

“Our responsibility was to show the world that this appalling thing was happening,” he adds.

Communicating with other departments is key when it comes to making The Crown. Childs worked closely with Roberts to coordinate what colors should be established in a scene and often makes sketches for the visual effects team to convey what he wants.

“My preference is to never have too much VFX in any one shot,” Childs says, adding that he prefers that at least two-thirds of what’s seen on the screen is real. “Our VFX people were more than willing to go along with that. Their mission is to make what they do look like part of the set.”

With more seasons to come, the behind-the-scenes team still has some tricks up their sleeves.

Childs, who has been pacing himself as the series progresses, explains that his approach to a series like The Crown, which he compares to an “epic novel,” has to differ from how he treats a two-hour feature film.

“I’ve got to save up a few things. I can’t use all my best ideas in the first two hours, because in a feature film, it would be only two hours. In The Crown, you’ve got another 48 to go,” he says.

Meanwhile, when season four debuts this fall, viewers “can expect three iconic women—the Queen, Margaret Thatcher, and of course, Princess Diana. They can expect real journeys there, visual journeys,” says Roberts.

“I think we’ve really upped our game.”

The Crown is nominated for 13 Emmy Awards this year. The series, which has received a total of 39 nominations since its premiere, has won eight Emmys up until now.

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