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讓垃圾食品不再“垃圾”

讓垃圾食品不再“垃圾”

Miguel Helft 2012-11-01
位于波士頓的“奇異品牌”公司生產(chǎn)糖果。它的產(chǎn)品采用天然原料制造,含糖量和脂肪量更少,纖維素和蛋白質(zhì)含量更多。這些糖果不含玉米糖漿、氫化油、人造色素和香精,也不含轉(zhuǎn)基因成分。公司希望借此減少人們因?yàn)槌蕴枪媾R的健康威脅。

????瑪氏公司(Mars)是著名的M&Ms、星河巧克力和士力架等產(chǎn)品的制造商。但是這家公司的發(fā)言人拒絕對(duì)此發(fā)表評(píng)論。

????奇異產(chǎn)品的構(gòu)想來自于萬圣節(jié)之后的父子爭辯。三年前,布隆納的兒子12歲大。父母拿走了他的大多數(shù)糖果“戰(zhàn)利品”。尼基對(duì)父母表示抗議,但父母告訴他,糖果吃多了對(duì)他的健康不利。尼基不服氣,轉(zhuǎn)而向網(wǎng)絡(luò)尋求幫助,最終卻發(fā)現(xiàn)父母的說法是對(duì)的。因此,尼基在接下來的兩年里著手探索能否拋棄垃圾食品原材料生產(chǎn)出美味的糖果。

????尼基運(yùn)用他父親在商業(yè)界的人脈關(guān)系和經(jīng)濟(jì)來源,聯(lián)系了食品和營養(yǎng)學(xué)方面的專家,一位著名的廚師,以及Khosla等風(fēng)投公司。慢慢地,布隆納家庭創(chuàng)立并發(fā)展起來一家公司,并匯集了來自寶潔(Procter & Gamble)、家樂氏(Kellogg)、谷歌(Google)和高迪瓦(Godiva)等公司的經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富的人員。首批產(chǎn)品于今年夏天投放市場。奇異品牌公司希望能夠?qū)⑹袌鐾卣怪撂鹌凤嬃虾推渌a(chǎn)品領(lǐng)域。

????Khosla公司合伙人薩米爾?庫爾稱,奇異品牌對(duì)Khosla的投資來說非常重要。Khosla進(jìn)行的可持續(xù)性投資越來越多,對(duì)食品和農(nóng)業(yè)領(lǐng)域給予了越來越大的關(guān)注度。他說:“我們準(zhǔn)備從糖果開始,并給人們拋出一個(gè)價(jià)值主張。我們必須通過有意義的方式來影響變革?!?/p>

????奇異公司能否完成自己使命?且讓我們拭目以待。耶魯大學(xué)(Yale University)呂德食品政策與肥胖中心(Rudd Center for Food Policy and Obesity)主任凱利?布朗內(nèi)爾對(duì)烏坦的一些擔(dān)憂表示贊同。他說,奇異品牌的最終影響在很大程度上依賴于消費(fèi)者對(duì)其產(chǎn)品作何響應(yīng)。布朗內(nèi)爾博士稱:“假設(shè)產(chǎn)品只比垃圾食品好10%,但如果消費(fèi)者認(rèn)為這些產(chǎn)品要比垃圾食品好40%,那就會(huì)造成不好的結(jié)果。消費(fèi)者食用同等的量才是明智的?!?/p>

????我桌上就擺著一堆“奇異”糖果。我正努力關(guān)注其傳達(dá)的節(jié)制飲食的信息。一位同事停下來拿起一個(gè)糖果棒,我費(fèi)勁口舌地向他解釋奇異品牌的價(jià)值觀。然而還沒等我說完,他就走出房間,在走廊里對(duì)我喊了一句:“我可不是為了健康才去吃這些東西。我就是想吃點(diǎn)巧克力而已。”

????譯者:李柰/汪皓

????A spokesman for Mars, the maker of M&Ms, Milky Ways and Snickers, declined to comment.

????Unreal emerged out of a father and son dispute following, appropriately, Halloween. Three years ago, when Bronner's son Nicky was 12, his parents took away most of his trick-or-treating spoils. When Nicky protested, his parents told him candy was bad for him. Unconvinced, Nicky turned to the Web, only to find out that his parents were right after all. So Nicky embarked on a two-year quest to find out whether tasty candy could be made without junk.

????Using his father's business world connections and pocketbook, Nicky contacted food and nutrition experts, a renowned chef, and investors like Khosla. Little by little, the Bronners built a company with veterans from Procter & Gamble (PG), Kellogg (K), Google (GOOG) and Godiva. The products were first introduced this summer. Over time, Unreal hopes to expand into sweetened beverages and other products.

????Samir Kaul, a partner at Khosla, says Unreal made sense for his firm, which has been making a growing number of investments in sustainability, with an increased focus in the food and agriculture sectors. "We are going to start with candy and give people a value proposition," he says. "We have to affect change when we can in meaningful ways."

????Whether Unreal can fulfill its mission remains to be seen. Kelly Brownell, director of the Rudd Center for Food Policy and Obesity at Yale University, echoes several of Wootan's concerns. He says Unreal's ultimate impact largely depends on how consumers respond to its products. "Lets say the products are better by 10%, but if consumers think they are 40% better, then it's not going to be good," Dr. Brownell says. "If consumers respond by eating the same amount, they will be better off."

????As a pile of Unreal's treats sits on my desk, I'm trying to heed the implicit message of moderation. When a colleague stops and grabs a candy bar, I do my best to explain Unreal's mission. Before I finish, however, he walks out the door, and from the hallway, he blurts out: "I'm not eating it to be healthy. I just want some chocolate."

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