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四不像社區(qū)


Sibuxiang is a long-term foreign resident of China . Much has been written to commemorate the 30th anniversary of China’s Open Door and Reform Policy . In this first series of blogs ,”Before the Door Was Open” , Sibuxiang shares his observations on the enormous changes in China since before the Open Door policy began , and its impact on how people work , live , manage, travel , and communicate .
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當(dāng)前位置:  


唐人街風(fēng)光不再 / Where's Chinatown?
 
www.zgfxmdz.com 2012年03月09日
 

唐人街風(fēng)光不再

不斷變化的人口特征嚴(yán)重影響到了旅美華人對(duì)居住地和居住方式的選擇。

我小時(shí)候住在芝加哥郊區(qū),當(dāng)時(shí)的華人大多聚居在芝加哥的唐人街。生活在郊區(qū)的華人屈指可數(shù),當(dāng)然也有其他亞洲人,但數(shù)量都極少。

北美大多數(shù)大城市的情況都是如此,唐人街的華人大都操著一口中山話、臺(tái)山話,或者其他南方口音,會(huì)普通話和英文的人很少。

初來者喜歡唐人街的理由很多,但語言上的便利、文化上的認(rèn)同,以及和新移民間緊密的家庭聯(lián)系都是最主要的因素,更不用說掙錢的機(jī)會(huì)了。

過去20年,從大中華區(qū)移民到北美的人口越來越多元化。其中,中國(guó)移民的來源地更加廣泛,教育水平更高,從業(yè)經(jīng)驗(yàn)更豐富,語言能力也更強(qiáng)。

新移民不需要也不希望淹沒在老的唐人街中,而唐人街作為北美華人文化、政治、經(jīng)濟(jì)中心的日子似乎也已經(jīng)一去不復(fù)返了。

來自亞洲其他國(guó)家的移民也呈現(xiàn)同樣的趨勢(shì),開始分散到新的衛(wèi)星城和郊區(qū)中去。

美國(guó)共有440萬亞裔人口,他們和西班牙裔都是增長(zhǎng)最快的族群。目前全美62%的亞裔人口——包括華人、韓國(guó)人和印度人——都居住在郊區(qū),而這一數(shù)字在1990年只有54%。

郊區(qū)生活一直與二戰(zhàn)后的“美國(guó)夢(mèng)”聯(lián)系緊密,頗受亞洲移民的追捧。而郊區(qū)學(xué)校的條件較好也是原因之一。

唐人街和城里其他傳統(tǒng)的移民聚居區(qū)對(duì)受教育程度較低、技術(shù)和語言能力較差的移民仍有很大吸引力,因?yàn)樵谀莾核麄兛梢员容^容易地找到入門級(jí)別的工作。有些地區(qū)甚至已經(jīng)發(fā)展成了當(dāng)?shù)氐穆糜吸c(diǎn)。

來北美的朋友經(jīng)常抱怨當(dāng)?shù)氐闹胁唾|(zhì)量太差。如果讓餐廳解釋,他們會(huì)說是因?yàn)橥鈬?guó)顧客接受不了真正的中餐,所以才不得已對(duì)菜單進(jìn)行改良,迎合當(dāng)?shù)氐目谖丁?/p>

過去要想在北美找到地道的中餐,還是得去唐人街,盡管那時(shí)都是以粵菜為主。但紐約、多倫多、舊金山和溫哥華的情況例外,這些地方的中餐品種都非常豐富。

隨著唐人街的淡出,尋找上好的中餐越來越難。這并不是因?yàn)闆]有中餐,而是因?yàn)楹玫闹胁蛷d現(xiàn)在都分散在城區(qū)和郊區(qū)不同的地方。

隨著唐人街旅游收入的增加,希望眼光獨(dú)到的企業(yè)家能抓住商機(jī),提供原汁原味的地方風(fēng)味餐飲。反過來說,我相信外國(guó)客人如果有機(jī)會(huì)嘗嘗地道的中餐,肯定也是可以接受和欣賞的。

Where's Chinatown?

Changing demographics have heavily impacted where and how overseas Chinese in America choose to live.

When I was growing up in the suburbs of Chicago, the ethnic Chinese population was heavily concentrated in Chicago's Chinatown. There were a handful of Chinese and other Asians in the suburbs, but not many.

The same was true in most large North American cities, where the streets of Chinatown were filled with people mostly speaking Zhongshan, Taishan and other Southern dialects, rather than Putonghua or English.

There are many reasons why Chinatown remained a magnet for new arrivals, but language ability, cultural affinity, and close family ties of new immigrants were all factors, not to mention economic opportunity.

During the past 20 years, the demographic diversity of immigrants from Greater China to North America has expanded dramatically, including a wider range of regional origins within China, higher level of education and professional experience, and language abilities.

Newer arrivals don't need or want to be immersed in the old Chinatowns. As a result, Chinatown is no longer the center of cultural, political and economic life for North America's overseas Chinese; and that trend appears to be permanent.

A parallel trend is evident among other immigrants from Asian countries, who are also dispersing to new satellite communities and the suburbs.

In the U.S., Asian Americans number 4.4 million, tied with Americans of Hispanic origin as the fastest growing ethnic group. Nationwide, some 62% of Asian Americans -- including Chinese, Koreans, and Indians -- now live in the suburbs, up from 54% in 1990.

Suburban living has been closely associated with the post WWII American dream, which has been clearly embraced by Asian immigrants. The draw of better schools in the suburbs is also a driver.

Chinatowns and other traditional urban ethnic neighborhoods remain a magnet for immigrants with lower education, skill and language levels who can more easily find entry-level work there. Some are also developing as local tourism destinations.

It's long been a complaint among Chinese friends who visit North America that the quality of Chinese restaurant food available there is generally awful. If you ask the restaurateurs, their excuse is that non-Chinese customers don't appreciate genuine Chinese cooking, so they have changed the menu to suit local tastes.

To the extent that you could find good Chinese food in North America, it was traditionally in Chinatowns, although even then it was mainly Cantonese cuisine. The main exceptions were New York, Toronto, San Francisco, and Vancouver -- offering a bigger and more diverse range of Chinese cuisines.

With the gradual demise of Chinatowns, finding good Chinese food has become more of a challenge. Not because it isn't available, but because good Chinese restaurants are dispersed across a very wide range of urban and suburban neighborhoods.

As Chinatowns develop more income from tourism, let's hope more smart entrepreneurs will seize the opportunity to offer genuine Chinese regional cuisines. Speaking as a convert, I am confident non-Chinese will accept and enjoy the real thing if given the chance.

 
 
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