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專欄 - 財(cái)富書簽

服裝租賃網(wǎng)站Rent the Runway的夢幻成名路

Daniel Roberts 2014年01月03日

《財(cái)富》書簽(Weekly Read)專欄專門刊載《財(cái)富》雜志(Fortune)編輯團(tuán)隊(duì)的書評(píng),解讀商界及其他領(lǐng)域的新書。我們每周都會(huì)選登一篇新的評(píng)論。
服裝租賃網(wǎng)站Rent the Runway如今大紅大紫,但創(chuàng)始人珍妮弗?海曼和珍妮弗?弗雷斯能夠走到一起完全是機(jī)緣巧合。而這個(gè)優(yōu)秀的商業(yè)創(chuàng)意雖然靈感來自一場派對(duì),但卻暗合了如今的兩大社會(huì)心理。

????但對(duì)自己正在從事的工作,弗雷斯根本就沒有興趣——她只是隨波逐流?!拔也恢酪粋€(gè)人是否一定會(huì)喜歡上某項(xiàng)工作,”她說?!拔矣X得臨界點(diǎn)可能出現(xiàn)在它占據(jù)了我太多生活空間的時(shí)候。我每天都工作很長時(shí)間,這份工作突然成為我生活的全部,我有點(diǎn)受不了了?!备ダ姿箤?duì)現(xiàn)狀不滿的另一個(gè)跡象是:她利用周末經(jīng)營一家名叫卡特招生服務(wù)(Carter Admissions)的公司,結(jié)果這個(gè)幫助高中生編輯大學(xué)申請(qǐng)文檔的副業(yè)大獲成功,帶給她的滿足感遠(yuǎn)勝過日常工作。(在哈佛商學(xué)院的第一年,她擴(kuò)大了業(yè)務(wù)范圍,同時(shí)開始提供網(wǎng)絡(luò)服務(wù)。)

????她此前曾申請(qǐng)過哥倫比亞大學(xué)法學(xué)院(Columbia Law School),獲得了錄取。但弗雷斯突然意識(shí)到,她并沒有認(rèn)真考慮過這是不是自己真正想要的東西?!拔业拇_是在最后那一刻決定放棄的。我當(dāng)時(shí)想,‘我并不是真的想當(dāng)一名律師。如果是這樣,我為什么要去上法學(xué)院???這時(shí)候申請(qǐng)商學(xué)院是不是太晚了?’”此后一個(gè)半月內(nèi),她參加了GMAT考試,向哈佛商學(xué)院遞交了申請(qǐng)書,在第三輪面試中達(dá)成了心愿。

????開學(xué)第一天相識(shí)后,海曼和弗雷斯親密無間地度過了商學(xué)院的第一學(xué)年。然后,在第二年的感恩節(jié),海曼在妹妹的小衣柜前,經(jīng)歷了“靈光一現(xiàn)”的一刻。貝基解釋了她被迫掏大價(jià)錢購買新衣服的苦衷之后,海曼問:“你為什么要買一件瑪切薩禮服,而不是便宜一點(diǎn)的衣服呢?”【貝基當(dāng)時(shí)是布盧明代爾百貨公司(Bloomingdale's)的一名采購員;她現(xiàn)在為Rent the Runway工作】貝基回答說:“穿好衣服漂亮唄?!焙Bl(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)人的自信程度與奢華著裝存在聯(lián)系,Rent the Runway就是她貫徹這一理念的成果。這門生意所利用的正是年輕女性對(duì)時(shí)尚形象和感覺的強(qiáng)烈渴望,即使她們并不具備購買高端服飾的財(cái)力。

????貝基不知不覺地發(fā)現(xiàn)了一個(gè)問題,而海曼認(rèn)為她已經(jīng)構(gòu)想了一個(gè)模糊的解決方案?!拔覀?yōu)槭裁床话阉羞@些你再也不打算穿的衣服收集在一起,然后租給其他人,為你自己創(chuàng)造一個(gè)收入流呢?”她建議道。她們并沒有真的打算把貝基的衣服租出去,但這件事不僅促使海曼開始思考為什么女性被迫盛裝打扮這 抽象問題,還讓她萌生了出租禮服的念頭。

????假期后返回哈佛的第一天,海曼就利用午餐間隙給弗雷斯講述了妹妹的衣柜故事?!拔耶?dāng)時(shí)并沒有產(chǎn)生借此機(jī)會(huì)創(chuàng)業(yè)的意圖或想法,”她說?!懊看位丶視r(shí),我總是跟貝基和家人討論這件事。但在我的腦子里,我真的不認(rèn)為它可以成為一門生意。我只是覺得這樣做肯定挺好玩?!?/p>

????盡管如此,海曼和弗雷斯還是決定嘗試一下。為解決貝基和其他許多年輕女性面臨的這個(gè)難題,她們制定了一張路線圖。海曼和弗雷斯已經(jīng)注意到、并開始思考兩種市場趨勢。其一是“共享經(jīng)濟(jì)”——對(duì)于許多商品,人們不再購買,轉(zhuǎn)而采用了租賃方式。租賃的對(duì)象現(xiàn)在不僅僅是歌曲(比如Pandora公司提供的流媒體服務(wù)),影視作品(奈飛公司),甚至還包括汽車(比如Zipcar公司的轎車共享服務(wù))。另一個(gè)動(dòng)向是,Airbnb公司即將搭建一個(gè)公寓租賃平臺(tái)。其次就是她們覺得不易衡量,愈演愈烈的名人崇拜現(xiàn)象。在Twitter和Facebook等社交平臺(tái)的推動(dòng)下,人們現(xiàn)在比以前更加關(guān)注金?卡戴珊這樣的名媛和流行文化明星,以及她們身穿的奢侈品牌。越來越多的女性希望在社交媒體上炫耀自己的奢華服飾,打造自己的個(gè)人品牌。海曼說:“我們的文化正在潛移默化地促使所有人渴望這種99%的人都無力負(fù)擔(dān)的生活方式。”????

????Yet Fleiss was never passionate about what she was doing -- she was coasting. "I didn't know that you necessarily would be or could be passionate about a job," she says. "And I guess the breaking point was once it became so much of my life, where it was like so many hours a day. It was suddenly the only thing I was doing. And that became a little much." A further sign of her restlessness: On weekends she was running a successful side business, Carter Admissions, that edited papers and prepared high school students to apply to colleges -- and enjoying it more than her real job. (During her first year at HBS, she expanded the concept and took it online.)

????She had applied to and gotten into Columbia Law School, but it occurred to her that she hadn't considered whether it was what she actually wanted. "I literally had this kind of last-minute, like, 'I don't really want to be a lawyer. What am I going to law school for? Is it too late to apply for business school?"?Within a month and a half, she had taken the GMAT, applied to HBS, and gotten in during its third round.

????After meeting on that first day, Hyman and Fleiss stayed close throughout their first year of business school and into their second. Then, during Thanksgiving break in their second year, Hyman had her "eureka moment" in front of her little sister's closet. After Becky explained how she had felt forced to overpay for a new dress, Hyman asked, "Why did you buy a Marchesa dress, as opposed to a cheaper one?" (Becky at the time was a buyer for Bloomingdale's; she now works for Rent the Runway.) Becky answered, "I want to feel beautiful." Hyman noted the association between self-confidence and luxury, and has carried that idea through to Rent the Runway, a business that trades on the desire of young women to look and feel fancy even if their wallets aren't equipped to own the very highest-end designer gowns.

????There was a problem Becky had unwittingly identified, and Hyman thought she had an inkling of a way to solve it. "Why don't we take all these dresses that you're never wearing again," she proposed, "and rent them out to other people, and create an income stream for yourself?" They weren't about to actually do that using Becky's dresses, but it got Hyman thinking about the concept of renting dresses, as well as the more abstract question of why women felt pressure to dress up.

????On the first day back at Harvard after vacation, a Monday, Hyman related the closet story to Fleiss over lunch. "I didn't go into it with the intention or the thinking that we would actually start something," she says. "Every time I would go home, I would be talking about it with Becky and with my family. But in my head I didn't really think it would be a company. I just thought it was something fun that we were working on."

????Still, they did work on it. They laid out a map for how they could solve the problem that Becky and so many other young women like her were having. There were two trends in the market that Hyman and Fleiss had noticed and were contemplating. One was the "sharing economy" and movement from ownership to renting. It was happening in music (with streaming services like Pandora), television and film (Netflix), and even automobiles, with car-sharing services like Zipcar. (Soon there would also be Airbnb, for renting out people's apartments.) The second, less measurable phenomenon they perceived was an increased saturation of celebrity worship -- social platforms like Twitter (TWTR) and Facebook (FB) were making people more aware than ever before of socialites and pop-culture stars like Kim Kardashian, and what luxury brands they were wearing. Women increasingly wanted to develop their own personal brands via social media to show off their luxury. "Our culture is educating an entire population of people to aspire to this lifestyle that 99% of us can't afford," Hyman says.

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